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March 2, 2012
News - March Caption Contest
about 3 months ago
Enough talk, at this point it’s time to put your light where your mouth is.
Shhhhh! There it is, Nate’s awesome graphite 20x Magnifier LED Lamp, I’ve heard rumors, but I didn’t think it really existed.
News - October Caption Contest
about 8 months ago
I knew it man, a push/pull double signal whacker was hidden under the table. There was no Freakin' way my battle bot just layed down and died!
News - September Caption Contest
about 9 months ago
What’s this!!! A CRT, I thought I annihilated the last one years ago. Die you LEAD soaked Power Eater!
about 10 months ago
I’ve used the previous .5MB version and now this new 1MB version. I also added a review of this module spanning both versions. My first use of this module was with a 3.3v USB to serial connected directly to the module. As I mentioned in my review it was rock solid.
Next I moved on to controlling it with a PIC micro-controller, I wasn’t having much luck as they seemed to keep rebooting due to watch dog or crash with exception dumps. They would also get very hot and the Red LED would get very dim. I was getting very close to contacting Sparkfun tech support that these modules have an issue, however if I put them back connected directly to the USB to serial they worked fine. At that point I decided it must be something to do with the power and I hooked up the ESP8266 with its own 3.3v regulator and I am happy to report these modules are as solid as when hooked directly to the USB to serial interface. It doesn’t matter how much current your 5V source can supply to your regulator, this module seems to be either sensitive to noise and or it uses power in surges for the transmitter and if the voltage momentarily drops the board goes into some sort of latch up condition. If you see resets and the power LED going dim, try a dedicated regulator, you’ll be glad you did.
IMPORTANT: If you want to keep your sanity when working with these on a breadboard, supply power to them with their own 3.3v regulator, probably not a bad idea to do the same when making a PCB board either.
Also most people seem to use this module with TCP connections. I am using it with UDP sockets and there isn’t a lot of information out there. If you need information on using UDP sockets check out this series of articles I have published on a prototype I am creating using the ESP8266 with UDP. Also you can check out my Google+ collection on the ESP8266 prototype here.
News - July Caption Contest
What! My brother fell into a Pipe on the way over here!
I’ve bought a few of these from Sparkfun and they have been working great for me. See my review titled “The little module that could, and probably will!”
Most people seem to use this module with TCP connections. I am using it with UDP sockets and there isn’t a lot of information out there. If you need information on using UDP sockets check out this series of articles I have published on a prototype I am creating using the ESP8266 with UDP. Also you can check out my Google+ collection on the ESP8266 prototype here.
about a year ago
It looks like you have it configured for both Station and AP mode, so it has two IPs, one for each mode. If you set it to station only “AT+CWMODE=1” you will get less data to parse.
That said, the command I use to get just the station IP is “AT+CIPSTA?”. If you need to use both Station and AP mode you can also get the AP IP address with “AT+CIPAP?”.
On my site I have some write-ups on a prototype project I am working on, I still have more articles to publish on the subject, but this one discusses the commands I’ll be using for various tasks.
News - May Caption Contest!
about a year ago
The home of the free and now the FreeSoC2, does it get any better than this?
Holy cow there it is “HELLO WORLD”, Mom’s gonna be so proud!!!
No public wish lists :(
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