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Member Since: August 15, 2008

Country: United States



Terry has designed radio stations, recording studios, broadcast equipment, intelligent machines and special computer languages for IBM, and has worked as a broadcast journalist covering elections, fires, riots and Woodstock. He is now 'retired' and teaching electronics, robotics, photography and journalism to young people.


Engineer, Photographer



Spoken Languages

English, French, very little Chinese and Arabic

Programming Languages

Archaic: SPL-7, JCL, MSP-7, APL Now: C, C+, PASCAL, PHP, Arduino C


Who would associate with me?


UCONN, SUNY(teaching), KAUST


Electronics, signals, RF, RTOS, Photography, Building Design


Engineering, Photography


terryking.us yourduino.com


Old Stuff, Web Stuff

  • OBSOLETE! The nice display is discontinued. Any direct replacements??

  • FTDI?? Maybe NOT: (UPDATE) The RedBack Spider I just received from Sparkfun is different than the one pictured as a product here.

    It is changed to be like an Arduino Mega2560. It has the 2560 chip AND more importantly it has the Non-FTDI "CP2102"l controller USB interface. So different drivers.

    The Dagu site also shows the "old" version on their User Manual, just like Sparkfun.

    So, the USB setup is different!!

    Sparkfun, can you update us on this issue?? WHERE are the CP2102 Drivers??

  • Here's a photo that shows a visible difference between Genuine and Fake FTDI chips: http://yourduino.com/docs/FTDI-GOOD-FAKE-TerryKing1014.jpg This correlates 100% with those plugged into a machine with "bad" FTDI driver. Fakes are "bricked" (PID set to 0000) the Genuine run fine. This is with a sample of 12 bad and 23 good chips.

  • I have several Genuine and several fake FTDI on Arduino derivative boards. The fakes have laser etched labels that are quite well done. BUT the "Pin 1" dot in the plastic is just a little different. Genuine is large dot, not very shiny Fake is slightly smaller dot and quite shiny You can see this clearly on this photo: http://s.zeptobars.ru/ftdi-FT232RL-real-vs-fake.jpg

  • Careful!! The sample schematic shows a 50 ohm resistor in series with the LED. This is WAY too little for an Arduino I/O. 220 ohms or more would be OK.
    The specsheet shows the 50 ohms for testing speed with a signal generator, it's NOT for general application.

  • Hi, I've been working on documenting more how-to on relay and power control. You may find this helpful:
    Regards, Terry King ..On the Red Sea at KAUST.edu.sa

No public wish lists :(