Member Since: April 21, 2009

Country: United States



  • One of the support posts that the PCB sits on is directly on the location of the P5 header. There’s also no cutout for this header in the case.

    I soldered wires to the through holes for the header. Not ideal, but it works.

    Just a heads up for anyone looking to utilize the P5 connections, which includes extra GPIO and I2C lines.

    It’s funny they provided cutouts for the P2 and P3 headers, I would think more end users would be interested in the I2C instead of the JTAG functionality.

  • “Look team, I know there’s not a Death Star we need to destroy yet, but we need to be prepared. Let’s get a prototype proton torpedo mounted on a quadcopter by the end of the week”

  • I have that el wire battery back/inverter from some retail kits I got awhile back. It gets the job done. The “vomit inducing” mode is great with fast movement, it’s a pretty fast strobe, but can have some pretty crazy effects.

  • The point of a “kit” has always been that it’s got everything you need to have a good jumping off point, or accomplish a specific function.
    I would be angry if I bought a kit and it didn’t have everything I needed. However, if I already have parts relevant, I don’t usually go for the all inclusive kit.
    It’s perfect the way it is Sparkfun, don’t change it. I won’t buy it, because I already have the majority of those parts, but that’s exactly why I don’t need to buy kits anymore. For someone who needs a little hand holding to get started, a complete kit is far better than saying “buy this, but you’ll also need to grab these other things separately”

  • As the current going through an inductive load (such as a motor) stops and starts, it induces large voltages, or at least, has the ability to.
    The diodes are facing the correct way, they are there so that any large voltages above your power rail or below your ground rail flow into said rails, preventing your motor driver from ever seeing these voltages.
    Think about it, if the diode flows into ground, the majority of your current would get shorted through the diode, which is lower resistance than your motor.

  • No on the 3v ttl. You’ll need to level shift it somehow. you can use the level shifting board available here, or there are ways to use a 5v pull up with a 3.3v logic system (you’ll need to understand resistor voltage dividers), and you then just use your controller chip to pull the inputs low.
    Use a high voltage diode, I’d say 200v peak reverse bias. General purpose schottky or silicon diodes are fine. Fast switching would be good. you’ll see very high, but very short lived currents through it.

  • FINALLY! Awesome! This will make case-building so much easier! Thank you!<br />
    <br />
    Any chance of getting ones with both holes threaded?<br />

  • You’ve had the Tamiya tank treads forever, its about time you added the universal plate!
    If anyone’s interested, the tank treads, dual motor gearbox, and universal plate are all designed to work together

  • Anyone know if the footprint for this fits an XBee’s pads to replace a worn connector?

  • What type of plastic is this?