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Home Product Categories Arduino DEV-09760
Joystick Shield Kit
sku: DEV-09760
Description: The Joystick Shield kit contains all the parts you need to enable your Arduino with a joystick! The shield sits on top of your Arduino and turns it into a simple controller. Five momentary push buttons (4+ joystick select button) and a two-axis thumb joystick gives your Arduino functionality on the level of old Nintendo controllers. Soldering is required, but it's relatively easy and requires minimal tools. We even have a step by step guide!
The momentary push buttons are connected to Arduino digital pins 2-6; when pressed they will pull the pin low (utilizing the internal pull-ups of the Arduino). Vertical movement of the joystick will produce a proportional analog voltage on analog pin 0, likewise, horizontal movement of the joystick can be tracked on analog pin 1.
This product is the entire kit and contains the following items:
- 1x Joystick Shield PCB
- 4x Momentary Push Button Switch - 12mm Square
- 1x Thumb Joystick
- 1x Mini Push Button Switch (breaks out Arduino's reset switch)
- 2x 6-pin Arduino Stackable Header
- 2x 8-pin Arduino Stackable Header
Documents:
Pricing
images are 
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Comments 29 comments
you just got them listed and their already out of stock… ill need to check your site more often
RTM. This is a pre-order. Says so in the first line of the description.
Sorry for the confusion. This is our first go at trying pre-sales.
You should have tried changing the “Add to Cart” to say “Preorder: Add to Cart” like Amazon does.
Awesome product, I need to get one bad, I got robots in my brain, they need to get out in the real world.
just to point out till they update the photos:
the photos currently show the old revision.
the current revision has a prototyping area between the joystick and buttons.
you can already see it on the photos of the retail kit.
what is the difference between this ant the retail kit?
The only difference between any of our retail products is the packaging. Retail kits or designed for retailers or distributors, or for gifts. There is no other difference.
oh i get it. i think retail kits makes more sense if i want to ship it via international shipping, am i right?
Not really, they will both ship with adequate packaging. It’s just whether you want the plastic packaging or not.
Aha! Respect fellas, I was going to suggest more holes. The other thing that is bending my mind is how to box the thing so I can use the thumb stick and have the buttons stick above the fascia of the enclosure. i.e. suitable for a user not a hacker.
And to be picky, extend the prototyping area to the button area, your positioning is probably generally excellent – but why constrain us when we are going to have to solder anyhow.
Just thoughts – thanks for all you do,
Glyn
I had no problem assembling this, and the layout is nice, but the joystick turned out to be bad. When one axis was moved towards its extreme position the other axis changed value, even though there was no significant movement in the associated potentiometer. I took it apart, and the joystick in one axis directly controls its pot through the a direct connection to the lever, the other axis uses a cage mechanism around the lever that lets the lever slide through in one direction and moved the other pot when moved in the other axis. This cage seems to use the pot as is bearing point and I beleive that vertical movement in the cage is what caused the error. The other issue with the device is that it did not always “electrically reset” to its neutral position (as measuired with a multimeter) when release. I had to tap it or exercise the lever to get it to reset.
My advice it to check out the Joystick using an ohmmeter or equivalent before assembling the kit to make sure it is working properly. I am going to try another one to see if this was a fluke.
Would this be compatible with the Thumb Slide Joystick?
No, just the thumb joystick in the related products below.
The footprint is for the Thumb Joystick, but you could attach a Thumb Slide Joystick with a little bit of wires and soldering.
Is the prototyping area big enough to fit a second joystick and have enough room to move them without interference?
The joystick wouldn’t fit into the prototyping are because the holes are too small for the large housing pins, the holes are only 2.54mm apart and the joystick doesn’t conform to standard layout.
Also there isn’t enough space to use another one comfortable on the board.
You could easily use the parts in the Sparkfun eagle library to make your own with two and get it made at BatchPCB
I have been working on a similar venture myself.
Hmmmmm…..what if…..new layout…somewhere for the Atmel goodies on board, room for xbee to program it and communicate to some xbee modules on robot critters, Lipo for power…..the entire package could fit into an altoids can?
Two of the leads on the joystick are not long enough to poke all the way through the circuit board. I bought an extra joystick because of the written problems I read about in the comments and it looks the same way. How am I supposed to get a solder connection if the leads don’t stick out?
I have created an Arduino library for this JoystickShield. You can find it out at http://sudarmuthu.com/arduino/joystickshield
Try it out and let me know if you have any feedback.
i want kit retail but its on back order im afraid to get this one that it wont come with all the parts needed
Please add a 3.3v/5v jumper for those of us who don’t have 5v analog pins. tia
OK, we just assembled 200 of these for Gameduino, so here are some tips on assembly.
* do the headers first – they are tricky to get straight. It helps to have another shield that you can put the headers on, then push the joystick board onto the header pins.
* the joystick itself has 13 pins, and they are often bent. Get it roughly in place on the board, then use fine-tip tweezers to get the small pins lined up with their holes before gently pushing it down.
I suggest you get a Panavise Board Holder. For large scale assembly, I use aluminum sheet to make header holders than hold the headers at 90 degrees while you solder them.
Silk screen letters are upside down compared to Arduino Uno lettering. Does not affect functionality but it made me look twice. Other than that great board.
-Sam
One on my buttons D3 won’t reset after it’s pressed. It’s 1 until I press it and then it’s 0 until I power it down. Ideas?
Try out this project for your joystick shield with processing:shurikenproject
it consists of using the joystick for moving a rotating shuriken on screen!
I used this with the XBee shield as a remote control for my lil robot:
http://ams-design.com/arduino/2011/09/the-spideruinos-controller/
Hopefully this will be helpful for someone! I know I could have used it ;) Full code provided on that page.
Cheers!
A
COULD I USE THIS ALONG with an xbbe and wirelessly control my robot? if so, how?