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The LiPower board is based on the incredibly versatile TPS61200 boost converter. The board is configured to be used with a LiPo battery, has solder jumper selectable 5V and 3.3V output, and an under voltage protection of 2.6V. However, the board can also be used as a general purpose buck and boost regulator with an input voltage as low as 0.3V (default UVLO is 2.6V). With such a low input voltage and quiescent current , the board also works well in energy harvesting applications that use low input voltages.
Note: This board does not have reverse polarity protection, so please use the correct LiPo batteries (see related items below) or be sure to recognize the polarity if using your own input source.
Note: This product is a collaboration with Oleg of Circuits@Home. A portion of each sales goes back to them for product support and continued development.
The LiPower - Boost Converter’s application circuit is embedded in the Power Cell. The Power Cell’s circuit design [ https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/379 ] might be of some use. The option to charge a LiPo battery is not available on the LiPower since the charge circuit is not included with the breakout.
You can find a nice tutorial here that shows how to modify what voltage the LiPower shuts down to protect an attached LiPo battery from over discharge.
This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.
Skill Level: Rookie - The number of pins increases, and you will have to determine polarity of components and some of the components might be a bit trickier or close together. You might need solder wick or flux.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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Based on 5 ratings:
This part does what it claims. I am using a few in a project and they provide the regulated voltage and the specified current. I have had one unit fail but this could easily have been my fault.
I do have two negatives. The first is that there is no mouting holes like most of SFE parts. Would four holes for #0 or #2 hardware have added that much space? The second is that the spacing between the input and output voltage pads do not appear to be on 1/10 centers. Makes using this on a breadboard or perfboard dificult.
I’ve used 4 or 5 of these boost converters for little projects here and there. They work great. I’ve even swapped resistors around to make them simulate a fully charged LiPo battery at 4.2v.
Do pay attention to the amperage curves in the datasheet for the boost regulator. In my case, I was making 4.2v (I had swapped resistors) from a 1.5v source, but I had peak amperage requirements that were outside the curve for the regulator. The circuit would brown out. Increasing the input voltage (two AAA cells in series) put me in the sweet spot.
0 of 1 found this helpful:
Can’t figure which is input and which is output. The device is well built, but comes with no cables and only the identifying printing on the bottom to tell that you have input terminals and output terminals, but which is which, your guess is as good as mine.
Hi, The input is on the side with the JST connector, there is also a second set of header holes in case you don’t have a JST connector on your power source. The output is the side that is opposite the plastic JST connector. The schematic will help you determine this information if you find yourself unsure with other products. Happy hacking!
It works pretty well, I am glad to purchase this product.
I attempted to convert the output to 3.3V, but my cold blunt iron just scraped the pad off the PCB. Done! 😕 I didn’t even get to power it up.