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Description: Surface transducers give you the awesome power to turn almost any surface into a speaker. Much like our larger surface transducer, this is essentially just a speaker except instead of a cone, the coil is attached to a pad that conducts the vibration into whatever you press it against. You can hook it up to an audio source and press it against the nearest table, wall or cardboard box. You can even put it against your head and play music directly into your skull (the ultimate surround sound).

Note: The connectors on these units are somewhat fragile so take care to prevent stressing your connection to the unit.

Dimensions: 21.5 x 14.5 x 7.9mm


  • Impedance: 8±5% Ohm
  • Resonant Frequency: 16 +/- 0.5 kHz
  • Max Operating Voltage: 12 Vpp
  • Frequency Response: 300-19000 Hz
  • Rated input: 1.0 W
  • Maximum input: 2.0 W
  • Operating Temperature: -20 to +60 °C


Comments 38 comments

  • Oooo, these are attractivvvvveeeee,,,, must… resist… searing urge… to add to cart!!!!!!

  • OK, got one of those… Am trying to connect it. I see the 2 minuscule solder pads on one end, but is there a + and a - or it doesn’t matter?

    Also: will this be more or less sensitive to signal than the mini speakers you sell here?

  • I am looking to make a spring reverb in a homemade tank and would be curious to see if this would work as both the input and output transducer for the tank. Any way to get a peak at what this looks like with the top plate taken off? I may want to put a less bulky plate on so there is more wiggle response for the spring.

    Any insights?

  • would I need to add power to this if connected to a tablet, and would it work to connect to my wall for surround sound?

    • They are very small, so you probably won’t get too much in regards to ‘surround sound’ unless you hooked up a large number of them. Otherwise, you just need to hook it up to an audio jack.

  • Completely new to this, could some please explain how i would wire this to say a 3.5 mm jack. Where to attach the wires to the transducer and such.

    • If you look at the 3rd picture of the transducer, you can see two little solder blobs on the left side sticking out from the green pcb connection. Those will be your connection points for your wires to an audio jack.

  • Is there any datasheet for this transducer?

  • It seems surprising the resonant frequency is 16KHz. I’d more expect something like 16Hz, but the frequency response doesn’t go lower than 300 Hz. I want to add a 60Hz hum effect to a battery-powered project and can’t tell whether I need to get the larger surface transducer.

  • Can someone tell me how one of these sounds when pressed against the back of their skull? Also, when it is being used listen to music as a “headphone” how well can others hear this?

  • anyone find a datasheet for this part?

    or can we at least get a spec on the thickness? I have an idea for a USB powered set of speakers but i want to embed these transducers in my material.

    • I would also love a data sheet. In the meantime the dimensions listed in the description match my measurements.

  • Is there a full datasheet on these things? with the mechanical drawings and all..

  • Being completely new at this stuff, could i not just solder a 3.5mm audio jack onto this sucker and plug it into my ipod?

    • I did this to see what happened with these small ones, too. They work fine. It is interesting to place the connected speakers onto various surfaces- I put mine on pizza pans, and they were loud, if tinny. And pressing them against my skull worked, too. Weird.

    • That’s what I did with the large transducers… works like a charm.

  • What size are the two threaded holes on the bottom?

    • I second this question. I just received my pair today, they sound pretty good pressed against cardboard with my finger, but the thread size would be really helpful for a more permanent installation.

      • If I am not mistaken it is a 1-64. McMaster has screws - get the 1/8" long ones.

        • I didn’t have those on hand, but I will try before tapping. Thanks. Once we know for sure, let’s make sure it doesn’t get lost in the shuffle.

      • For what it’s worth, I used “standard” eyeglass micro-screws and the thread seemed to work well. Added a tiny drop of threadlocker just in case, but I’m sure i didn’t need to.

      • They don’t fit quite right, but I got some 0-80 brass screws to just bite. I could hold them reliably with these, I think, but I am thinking I will just tap them for 0-80 or something like that. It would be nice to know rather than guess.

  • What is the difference between these and the “Large Surface Transducers”? Will the large version be able to output with more power - thus more volume?

  • can i use 2 of these for an Controller’s vibration feedback?

  • would it be practical to use this to turn a PCB into a speaker?

    • I’m not an expert (yet) but I think the vibrations would generate unwanted voltages in the caps. Dave Jones from the EEVblog has a video about that with oscilloscope probes.

    • I believe vibrations would also modulate crystal frequencies, right?

      That would be an interesting way to make a basic FM transmitter.

  • Any possibility of getting a photo of the connector?

    • sure. it’s a small PCB you can see in the first pic (the edge of it anyways), and there are two small solder tabs.

  • Currently wondering what 5 of these would be like in a sports headband, routed into a low power 5.1 surround sound while playing an MMO. :D

    • Not trying to sound pessimistic, but 5 transducers might be overkill.

      Much of how we perceive auditory spatialization depends on the physical characteristics of the external ear, as well as a time and intensity difference between right and left. With bone conduction, the ability to spatially locate a sound source is vastly decreased, as bone conducts very fast, and intensity differences are much smaller. As an example, underwater hearing is nearly all done by bone conduction (since the water in the external ear canal dampens vibrations of the tympanic membrane), and if you’ve ever tried to localize a sound source underwater, you know how difficult that can be. The sound just seems to come at you from all directions, almost like coming from within your head.

      I think you would get virtually identical results with just 2 transducers (placed on the mastoid processes - the bony “bump” behind and below your ears) and a big ass sub (cause everyone needs a big sub).

    • That’ll likely take some serious experimentation, as each one should have its own isolated ‘cone’ for optimal output, but that’s a great idea!

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