The 'must have' IC for TTL/CMOS projects finally has its own breakout board! This is the RS232 converter IC that is capable of running at 3V and communicating with 5V logic.
We've taken the SOIC package MAX3232 and broken out all the pins you need to set up your RS232 to TTL connection. We've also included the necessary 0.1uF charge pump capacitors. Also remember that because the MAX3232 operates at a broader voltage range than the 232 (3 - 5.5V) you can use this on both your 3.3 and 5V projects!
This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.
Skill Level: Noob - Some basic soldering is required, but it is limited to a just a few pins, basic through-hole soldering, and couple (if any) polarized components. A basic soldering iron is all you should need.
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If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.
Skill Level: Rookie - You will need a better fundamental understand of what code is, and how it works. You will be using beginner-level software and development tools like Arduino. You will be dealing directly with code, but numerous examples and libraries are available. Sensors or shields will communicate with serial or TTL.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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Based on 26 ratings:
2 of 2 found this helpful:
I needed this because the device I'm attaching to was RS232 format output only, and the Pi /dev/ttyAMA0 only likes TTL, so this did the trick. Only thing I had hesitation about was that I had to go to Maxim's documentation to figure out the different pinouts, and I'd have rather that info been readily obvious to me on Sparkfun's website, but I couldn't find it.
3 of 3 found this helpful:
Very confusing to get everything hooked up properly. Better documentation would've made this 5 stars. I'm using this to send commands from arduino uno to an RS232C motor indexer/driver
Pinout by my experimentation is as follows: Arduino Tx -> T1IN Arduino Rx -> R1OUT RS232 Indexer Tx -> R1IN RS232 Indexer Rx -> T1OUT
GND and 3-5.5V are as expected
it works very good, nice design.
Works just like it should. I have used 5 of these and no problems.
This little board does what I needed and was easy to integrate into my project. The I/O holes all in a line are nice as well as the labels of each hole on the back.
I realized I needed to add an RS232 driver to an existing circuit board lacking in board space. This little board allowed me to mount it vertically with all the signals accessible on a .1" spacing. It worked like a charm and converts the signals to the proper levels.
I needed a quick, simple, economical way to interface a PC's RS-232 port to a PICAXE micro. Worked perfectly, no problems. Great product!
Just what I needed to add serial port communications to my +5V project.
I had an old homebrew max232 circuit that gave up the smoke and didn't feel like making another. The MAX3232 breakout from Sparkfun worked perfectly as a replacement. I even bought a couple extra for future needs.
I use this on one of the boards I designed. Ebay compatible boards are cheaper but this one usually has good quality. Slightly lowering its price will be nice.
Only wish the labeling listed RS-232 inputs and outputs as an option. Wiring it up is a bit confusing at first. At the very least, on-line documentation should provide common wiring for the device (e.g., RTS, CTS, TxD, and RxD for DTE and DCE).
Having a project which tapped into the RS232 line between my Ham Radio and the computer, I needed something which would listen to the commands being sent down the line. This afforded me the perfect form factor to plug into my circuit board and provide the necessary translation. I had a great deal of trouble understanding which line went to the TX line and which went to the RX (I'm a little slow and easily confused!), but once I finally figured it out, everything went fine!
This board was easy to work with, perfect for my prototype!
Does what it is supposed to do and fairly versatile.
This breakout board neatly converts either TTL or 3v3 serial outputs to RS232-level signals and vice versa. This is great when you have a serial port which requires these levels - such as a PC with a serial card or a modem. If you need this conversion this is the board for you. Make sure you have a gended-changer if you need one. Enjoy!
They are great so far, except they are a bit expensive, but they saved us much effort thanks to the enhanced ESD Protection of the SIPEX SP3232.
A bit overkill, though. I'd prefer a one-channel version that doesn't take up as much space.
Great tool, but keep in mind that the behavior is different depending on the direction. I have a RS-232 device trying to get it to 3.3 TTL. To pull that off, you have to route the RS-232 device into the RXIN and the uC out of the RXOUT. I initially had it going into the TXIN and uC out of TXOUT, but that kept logic levels higher than my Vin. Hopefully something that might save a poor uController some day.
If you want a quick way to get TTL signals to RS-232 levels, this is a quick and easy way to do it without surface mount solder tools.
I needed a 3.3v TTL to RS232 converter to talk to my HC-06 Bluetooth modules in order to use the AT commands. Worked great.
I need to quickly build a board to translate TTL serial into RS232 signals, this was the perfect solution to use on breadboard.
Works great, just like you'd expect a MAX3232 to be. Would have 5 stars if it could plug into the programming headder on the Arduino Pros and have holes for the terminal side DB9 connector along with headders for the RX2 and TX2. But this is good, much handier than stuffing DIP in breadboard along with the caps.