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Description: A solid state relay (SSR) allows you to control high-curent AC loads from lower voltage DC control circuitry. Solid state relays have several advantages over mechanical relays. One such advantage is that they can be switched by a much lower voltage and at a much lower current than most mechanical relays. Also, because there’s no moving contacts, solid state relays can be switched much faster and for much longer periods without wearing out.

This particular SSR can switch current loads of up to 40A with a 3-32V DC input. Each one of these relays is equipped with four screw terminals (for use with ring or fork connectors) and a plastic cover that slides over the top of the relay to protect the terminals.


  • Trigger Current: 7.5mA/12V
  • Control Voltage: 24-380V AC
  • Input Voltage: 3-32V DC


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Customer Comments

  • The datasheet shows a leakage current of 3mA. Is that a typo? I thought leakage currents are usually in uA for good SSRs?? For switching mains power, this doesn’t sound safe even if it’s in the off position.

  • What would be the main difference between using this and say the KIT-10684 Solid State Relay Kit from SFE? The kit is more than twice the cost, and this one does not require me to build it. Pros/Cons?

    • The big difference is the current rating. The kit is rated for 8 amps this is 40 amps, although that requires a heat-sink.

    • Really only tree pros I could see about the kit versus this: * The kit is substantially smaller. * The kit gives people opportunity to practice their soldering (yes, a bit of a stretch). * Heatsink is pretty much optional. You do not expect to run much with one this small, so you do not push it. The big relay you DO drive lots of power (I do at least since I have one of these from a prior source), so you need a nice size heatsink. Cons of the kit: * Expense. * Much lower overall Amperage it can handle. * Much more limited range on the control voltage.

      Sorry, could not get the formatting to work and gave up.

  • Any word as to when these will be back in stock? Me and Mrs. Jonesing.

  • It is not clear from either the datasheet nor from the SFE description whether this is an auto-zero-cross switching SSR, or if it is a phase-angle switching version? There are advantages and disadvantages either way, but we need to know which it is to properly identify what it is suitable for?

    • If you look at the diagram below the chart on page 3 of the datasheet, there is an internal block labeled “Zero Cross Circuit” so it looks like this is a zero-cross version. (some of the text above makes it a bit unclear, as it almost reads like they recommend zero-cross triggering but don’t state that it’s built in… I guess some of it was lost in the Chinese translation…. )

  • I ordered 10 beefcake relay kits a while back. I should’ve waited for these I guess. Crap.

  • These work great but suggest a heatsink or at least monitor the temperature for loads of more than a couple hundred watts. Purchased same or similar from elsewhere and found that the back plate quickly got too hot for comfort in my application… I saw heatsink specifically for these types of SSR online so I tried rigging an old CPU heatsinkg … but still didn’t feel safe until I moved my 240 volt 1500Watt (6.25 AMP) load back to a beefcake relay :-) … maybe SF can source us a good matching heatsink those that need high speed switching or high switching count :-)

  • Datasheet mentions 1.6v drop on the AC side at room temperature. At 40A load, that’s 64 watt of power you need to dissipate via heat sink! The datasheet shows you the recommended heat sink for this product. I’d recommend basing your heat sink calculations on something higher - 100-150 watt so it doesn’t get so hot and can rely on convection rather than needing a fan to cool.

    • Your post implies you’ve used these before.

      For those curious about “failure modes”, my experience is that when they fail (due to overheating), they fail in the “closed” (ON) position – i.e. the triac shorts. I generally calculate the load current and multiply that by two, and then use a heat sink anyway.

      One thing I always look for, though, is the “zero cross” switch. That’s particularly important if you’re trying to control something like a hot plate, which invites a huge current surge when switched on as the input AC approaches a peak value.

  • Pros/Cons over the PowerSwitch Tail kit? (besides SSR)

  • I’m using a similar relay to control the heat bed on my 3D printer I’m building. My heat bed is running on AC and the relay is in the primary of the step down transformer I’m using. My relay requires at least 12v to trigger so I had to use the RAMPS board mosfet controlled 12v output, using one of these I could have made use of any logic output.

    BTW is the heat sink tab isolated from the logic input ground (it BETTER be isolated from the power line!)?

    • The type I’ve used (stone age vintage, but they look the same) in good working order had the heatsink (bottom metal plate) insulated from everything.

      The caveat to that, though, is if/when they fail due to overheating (see dnear1’s post) is that you can’t tell what’s going to be connected to what after meltdown (literally for me, in one case several years ago).

      In that particular case, nothing in the controller circuit got damaged, but I did measure several megohms resistance between the control inputs and the AC inputs (and shorted AC output) after meltdown. I chalked it up to carbonized plastic. May or may not be worth keeping in mind for your circuit.

  • If I wanted to control a normal 240V circuit, would I need two of these? Basically, there are 2 legs of 120V offset by 180°. Theoretically, it should work with just one, as there would be an open circuit unless the relay was closed.

    Also, is this NO or NC?

    • Note that it won’t actually be strictly ‘Open Circuit’, even with one in each phase. There will still be a very slight leakage through the Snubber circuit, so never touch the wires with it connected, even if the relay is ‘off’, always make sure it’s unplugged before working on it.

    • It is NO. To control 240V, you would need two. If the load doesn’t use the neutral, you could get away with one, but that would be against NEC and a safety hazard as the load would still be live with respect to ground or neutral when turned off. If you are in a country where one side of the 240V is ground-referenced, then you would only need one.

    • Just one would do for controlling a 240vac device. after all as you say if either is disconnected its an open circuit and thus not working.

      out of the datasheet i read its Off below 1v input and On when above 2.4v (so NO). Remember to always read the datasheet when uncertain. in its parameters and connection diagrams your questions may already been answered.

  • Every SSR that I’ve found online at this current level ( for a reflow oven ) requires a heat sink. There’s no mention of a heatsink being required in the description.

    • If you’re putting 40A into it, yes, you will need a heatsink. I’ve found that using one of these with ~4-10A of current will cause the relay to get pretty warm, but simply bolting it to a piece of metal helps tremendously, as the whole bottom plate is metal. If using for intermittent use (pump, fan, etc), you could probably get away with open air.

Customer Reviews

5 out of 5

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works great

I have it driving two stove eyes in a homemade oven. It handles it with no problems and no heat even without a heatsink