This is a board designed for opto-isolation. This board is helpful for connecting digital systems (like a 5V microcontroller) to a high-voltage or noisy system. This board electrically isolates a controller from the high-power system by use of an opto-isolator IC. This IC has two LEDs and two photodiodes built-in. This allows the low-voltage side to control a high voltage side.
We often use this board to allow a microcontroller control servos or other motors that use a higher voltage than the TTL logic on the (3.3V or 5V) micro, and may cause electromagnetic interferance with our system as the motors turn on and off. This board will isolate the systems, creating a type of electrical noise barrier between devices.
This breakout board uses the ILD213T optoisolator and discrete transistors to correct the logic. Comes with two channels. Great for use in noisy circuits where signal lines require electrical isolation.
A normal LED opto-isolator will invert the logic of a signal. We threw some transistors on this compact board to correct the inversion. What you put into the IN pins, will be replicated on the the OUT pins, but at the higher voltage (HV). This optoisolator is configured for data rates up to 9600bps. For MIDI applications (31250bps) consider our MIDI Arduino Shield.
This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.
Skill Level: Noob - Some basic soldering is required, but it is limited to a just a few pins, basic through-hole soldering, and couple (if any) polarized components. A basic soldering iron is all you should need.
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If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.
Skill Level: Rookie - You will need a better fundamental understand of what code is, and how it works. You will be using beginner-level software and development tools like Arduino. You will be dealing directly with code, but numerous examples and libraries are available. Sensors or shields will communicate with serial or TTL.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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Based on 13 ratings:
6 of 6 found this helpful:
The 10k load resistors on the "output side" mean the switching time of the optocoupled transistors are close to 100 us, which means baud rates above 9600 will not work. This means the breakout is useless for a MIDI application (which is optoisolated transmission at 31250 baud serial). So good for isolation, not for fast signalling.
the board is small,so soldering by hand takes care. I put mounting pins on the opto board and then soldered to the main board-- this was effective
0 of 1 found this helpful:
I needed to monitor and emulate marine pump alarms with a +3.3V microcontroller. I just added the 1.5K ohm resistors in series and everything worked as planned. I was able to sense the 12V alarms and and forward serialized data to a system monitor with ease.
Made connecting up the noisy side from the clean (ardunio) side easy.
It works great for Digital IO but I have been trying to use a PWM with it. And I get nothing on the output even at 10 hertz. 50% duty cycle.
Has anyone attempted to use it with a PWM? any luck?
Had severe noise problem when connecting the external trigger lines of three separate data acquisition systems to a common trigger source. The noise varied from a 3 to 5 volt sine wave causing the DAQ's to trigger. Hooked this little guy between the trigger source and the external trigger inputs and cleaned everything up. The noise was caused by ground loops. Couldn't have completed the experiments without it. Also I measured the delay to be only 4 microseconds.
I'm using this to convert the 5v logic signals from encoders on my tool turret to 24v inputs into my Mesa card. It is currently hanging on it's wires, since I haven't figured out how to mount it.
I had two 24vdc inputs and needed to switch two 5VDC logic signals. This board worked perfectly. I did have to add some resistance on the front end as to not burn out the optos, but 1k ohms later and I was off and running.
I'm using four of thees in Gecko G320x servo drive reset circuits driven by a Pokeys57CNC board and they work perfectly.
For logic level voltage conversions and isolating two circuits, this is perfect, which is good, because that's what it was designed for.
The description and instructions are lacking bits of info that are imperative for first time users to understand (I'm a first time user and didn't understand these things).
The "high voltage" side of the opto-isolator is not designed to have your main "high current" circuit ran directly through it. You wont get the amperage you need out of it. This is easily overcome by using the opto-isolator to drive a FET that controls your "high current" circuit.
If you are using the opto-isolator to step down in voltage (i.e. reading a 12v limit switch circuit with a 5v Arduino) you will need to put a resistor in line with your Inputs so as not to fry the LEDs inside (they are designed for a 5v circuit). You will need to do some math to determine the correct resistor size.
Works great, but just a heads up to anyone using the sparkfun eagle library the pins (5,6) and (7,8) are transposed in the symbol.
Used to opto-isolate my arduino from a stepper motor, fairly straight forward to solder posts to it and use.
The documentation describes how to use the device to isolate a controller's outputs from the device being controlled. But it works equally well to protect inputs.