Description: The TB6612FNG motor driver can control up to two DC motors at a constant current of 1.2A (3.2A peak). Two input signals (IN1 and IN2) can be used to control the motor in one of four function modes - CW, CCW, short-brake, and stop. The two motor outputs (A and B) can be separately controlled, the speed of each motor is controlled via a PWM input signal with a frequency up to 100kHz. The STBY pin should be pulled high to take the motor out of standby mode.
Logic supply voltage (VCC) can be in the range of 2.7-5.5VDC, while the motor supply (VM) is limited to a maximum voltage of 15VDC. The output current is rated up to 1.2A per channel (or up to 3.2A for a short, single pulse).
Board comes with all components installed as shown. Decoupling capacitors are included on both supply lines. All pins of the TB6612FNG are broken out to two 0.1" pitch headers; the pins are arranged such that input pins are on one side and output pins are on the other.
Based on 4 ratings:
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I’ve owned two of these motor drivers. I’ve used them to drive a self-balancing robot and the rover 5 chassis. I’ve never ran into any problems with it. For the rover 5, I keep each treads' two motors in sync by simply hooking them up together from one motor output. Perhaps this limits the bot’s speed, but it’s good enough for me.
I’ve controlled the driver with an assortment of microcontrollers: Arduino Uno, Arduino Mega 2560, bare atmega328, bare attiny84. I’ve also powered the driver with rechargable AAs, regular AAs, and a 7.4V Li-Poly battery (sold here @ sparkfun). All of which work as expected.
Since all of our students have iPads, we use the Light Blue Bean Arduino compatible microcontroller in our Physical computing class. This means that we need a motor driver that operates at a 3v logical voltage to get a signal from the bean.
This chip seemed to be the best fit for us.
I do wish there was a way to get the chip in a style that could be easily put into a breadboard without having to solder headers on.
Seems like the price could be a little lower.
Also, the standby pin is not necessary for our needs, but in order for the chip to work, you have to wire Standby to 3v, adding a little bit of complexity for novice students.
Ideally, what I would like is a version of the L293D chip that will operate at 3v logic, but this will meet our needs for now.