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Description: The TB6612FNG motor driver can control up to two DC motors at a constant current of 1.2A (3.2A peak). Two input signals (IN1 and IN2) can be used to control the motor in one of four function modes - CW, CCW, short-brake, and stop. The two motor outputs (A and B) can be separately controlled, the speed of each motor is controlled via a PWM input signal with a frequency up to 100kHz. The STBY pin should be pulled high to take the motor out of standby mode.

Logic supply voltage (VCC) can be in the range of 2.7-5.5VDC, while the motor supply (VM) is limited to a maximum voltage of 15VDC. The output current is rated up to 1.2A per channel (or up to 3.2A for a short, single pulse).

Board comes with all components installed as shown. Decoupling capacitors are included on both supply lines. All pins of the TB6612FNG are broken out to two 0.1" pitch headers; the pins are arranged such that input pins are on one side and output pins are on the other.

Features:

  • Power supply voltage: VM=15V max, VCC=2.7-5.5V
  • Output current: Iout=1.2A(average) / 3.2A (peak) 
  • Standby control to save power
  • CW/CCW/short brake/stop motor control modes
  • Built-in thermal shutdown circuit and low voltage detecting circuit
  • All pins of the TB6612FNG broken out to 0.1" spaced pins
  • Filtering capacitors on both supply lines

Dimensions: 0.8x0.8"

Documents:

Comments 83 comments

  • The datasheet listed among the documents up above contains some Asiatic symbols, or some cryptic codes to replace them in absence of fonts. English-readers will have a hard time understanding some of the tables and charts. As an alternative, read this one:
    http://www.semicon.toshiba.co.jp/docs/datasheet/en/LinearIC/TB6612FNG_en_datasheet_080509.pdf

  • A very nice flyback diode configuration for this motor driver: http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-the-Sparkfun-Motor-Driver-1A-Dual-TB6612FNG-/

    and here is a demo of my use of the circuit: http://vimeo.com/61068377

  • If you are playing with that chip, be sure you plug the standby pin (STBY) to 5V to enable the motor driver and make it work. It has a internal pull-down 200k resistor, by default the motor driver is disable.

  • This could really use a “not” gate on one of each of the “InA” and “inB” lines. Like a Not-AIn1 and Not-Bin1, so that people not interested in the braking function can use the controller by running one logic line to both In1 and In2. I suspect that there are a lot of people with low-pin count uC’s who would appreciate not having to use 2 more GPIO’s and not having to add extra logic.
    Otherwise, this is one of the best “hobby motor controllers” I’ve found at this price. (in case anyone is interested) It gets kinda hot running Tamiya gearboxes, but it works!

  • Can anyone confirm that applying Vm before Vcc actually fries this thing?

  • The datasheet states IN1 L, IN2 L, PWM H is high-z/stop. Does anyone know what IN1 L, IN2 L, PWM L does? The datasheet doesn’t list it as far as I can tell.

  • Will this work with a brushless DC motor?

    • I don’t believe so - to run a BLDC motor, you need three half-bridges. This technically has four of them, but looking at the truth table I don’t think you have enough independent control of them to do what you need (hint: it’s missing the H-H state). You should be able to do it (control one motor) with two of these chips.

      We’re looking into producing a BLDC motor driver board, but we haven’t chosen a chip yet. Out of curiosity, what voltage and current does your motor require?

      • I was looking for around a 3S LiPo (11.1V) pulling up to about 3A… Of course higher voltage and current handling than that could be useful as well! :)

  • Feature request. How about adding a resistor pad with cut out short between the PGND pins and the ground bus. With a trace off the PGND pin to the control header or just a hole would do. So we can monitor the motor current with an ADC pin without hacking up the board.

  • I didn’t really think about it when I ordered, but this tiny board has no allowance for a mounting hole. Worked electrically just as I expected to control a couple motors, but I haven’t decided how to mount it yet. Any suggestions?

    • Velcro, hot glue, or twist ties (keep an eye out for possible shorts with these) all work well.

  • Here’s a good tutorial: http://www.meanpc.com/2012/01/how-to-use-tb6612fng-motor-driver-with.html

  • Hi. Is it possible to have two motors with different voltages with this board? For example 5v and 12v.

    thank you

    holby

    • Unfortunately not; although the chip has two separate H-bridges, their motor supply voltages are tied together internally on the chip.

  • For those also looking, here’s an open source project using this part AND a it contains a part definition for Fritzing. Whoopie! https://github.com/ducas/Robbo

  • Is there a Fritzing part definition for this out there somewhere?

  • Is there any problem tying STBY to VCC? I’ve failed to find a conclusive answer. It looks like as long as I have all lows,I still “coast” and so it should be ok to tie STBY to VCC. But, I don’t want to be wrong :p

  • I did a quick video tutorial/review which discussed how to use and connect with an Arduino - http://youtu.be/BiJMsMguv-M?hd=1&t=8m9s

  • Hi, i’m a little new at all this, i’ve ordered a few items, including this motot driver,and a bluetooth board, i’ve been tinkering around with my new arduino uno, and i want to build a bluetooth controlled rc car, i have the rc car, and have checked out the motors, they are both unmarked and have a few ceramic capacitors soldered between the terminals, so my questions are as follows: 1. The car ran off a 9.6v battery pack, is it safe to assume i could power it with this motor driver and 9v? 2. Would i need (a) diode(s) for back emf? And if yes to #2 3. Would a 1n4007 do the job? 4. And where in the circuit would it (they) belong?

    Thanks and sorry if these are noobish questions.

  • I’m moving a project over to this driver from one where all control was through 4 PWM pins (2 per motor). To drive CW, for example, you would hold A high and pulse B low, and to drive CCW, you would hold B high and pulse A low. This board is set up instead to take 2 slow inputs and 1 PWM input per motor, with the slow inputs setting the direction of rotation (in the exact same manner as my existing project, one side high and the other side low = drive) and the PWM input setting the speed. My question is, will the “slow” directional inputs tolerate being switched at PWM speeds? Can I just tie the PWM inputs high permanently and use PWM on the directional inputs instead?

    *edit: Upon closer inspection, my other board uses this exact same chip, and that is in fact what they did. So yes, that will apparently work. I’ll update if I smoke it. ;)

  • Board seems to work. one side is disabled. i used the diagram in the bldr.org to test. what am i missing?

  • Hello folks,

    I’ve been playing with a stepper motor and the easydriver shield for only one reason so far: I’m able to stop the motor and keep it energized. (I mean, not moving but it still has the torque to keep tied something)

    I’m thinking of start playing with Dc Motors and this Motor Driver TB6612FNG. My question is: Is it possible to stop the motor and at the same time keep it energized? (not moving at all)

    Thanks

    **** Maybe I need a worm gearbox motor, right?

    • Dc motors spin when power is applied, so no you cant power it and have it not move onless you lock it up mechanically. Motors dont like this and it eats power. There is a braking function on these though, it effectively shorts both motor terminals to ground.

  • Be aware I just fried this board and my MCU (a Teensy++) by turning on the motor voltage VM (12v) first before turning on the 5v Vcc. It had been working great for weeks before that. I’m not sure why this would cause it to burn out as the VM seems to be isolated from the Vcc, and STBY would be low if there was no Vcc, so everything should be disabled. But anyway be safe and connect Vcc before the motor supply VM.

  • For those that asked how to add back-EMF protection diodes around the motor, see figure 6 of http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/L298N.pdf

  • how come my motor is slower when it is control by this than just connecting it directly to a battery

  • can you teach me how to properly wire this to control two dc motors

  • does this thing work like an h-bridge

  • I bought two of these and they are great little boards. I am controlling the motors from a pc app. that I made via serial port. Thanks Spark Fun.

  • With this board and an Arduino I can finish the robot project I started 30 years ago.

    I have had a surplus big trak gear motor set in a box for all those years. Back then I was going to use a Timex Sinclair t1000 with a IO board to control it.

    Here is the guts of the big trak

    http://www.thebigtrak.com/legacysites/robotprojects/

    Its a great gearbox. It has a magnetic clutch that keeps the two sides running at the same speed when going the same direction, but if you apply reverse or hit some threshold, it “breaks” and the two sides run independently.

  • I’m having some trouble figuring out exactly where I should place the backflow diodes if I were to use this with two motors.

    Any help?

  • Would it be possible to use this controller with a 3.3v operating voltage like on the arduino pro mini ?

  • Would it be possible to use this controller with a 3.3v operating voltage like on the arduino pro mini ?

    • Yes. Vcc can go down to 2.7v. You’ll need a higher voltage to run the motors, though (connected to VM), which is usually also a good idea since it keeps noise isolated. For example, running off a standard 7.2V battery pack, you’d connect the battery pack directly to VM and GND here, and then connect it also to the voltage regulator input on your arduino. The arduino’s 3.3V output would then be connected to VCC on this board.

  • Great motor driver. Used in a line following bot. Always ran cool (though we weren’t stressing it, maybe 30% average of max current). Ran high-power versions micrometal motors.

    It’s cheap and it works well. Not much to be said; it’s a good product!

  • hey guys i can’t get this to work maybe you can help me. Im using a teensy 2.0 powered with usb bbut I’m sorta familiar with the arduino software. I know the teensy is working because I programmed the led to blink and i tested my motors(pololu 1:50). I have the standby pulled up to 5v and my motor connected to Ao1 and Ao2 and a pwm line from pin 9 on my teensy connected to PWMa. I grounded the 2 ground pins at the bottom and connected power from the usb to vcc(i also tried AA batteries). Ive played around with AIN1 and AIN2 but I’m not getting any response at all. Does anyone know why this wouldn’t work? thanks so much for any help i love spark fun.

    • You’ll need to apply power to VM as well as VCC.

      Also, USB ports don’t generally provide much power; it may not be a good idea to drive the motors directly from USB voltage. Try connecting a nine volt battery between VM and ground, thereby powering your motor from the 9V battery. That might work much better.

      If you haven’t used protection diodes on your motor, it’s also possible that you’ve toasted the board. You can disconnect the motor and look at the voltages on the output directly (using a voltmeter) to verify that the board is still doing the right thing.

  • I am using this motor driver and I noticed that my motor is noticeably slower than when it is hooked directly up to the battery.
    I have a 12v 1.2Ah battery. I have it fed into an 7850 5v voltage regulator. I used the voltage provided from the regulator to put a full duty cycle to the PWMA pin, and feed the input pins.
    I have another wire from my 12v battery going into the VM pin on the board. The motor stops, moves both ways, etcs, just slower than if I put it directly on the battery. A much more significant drop in speed than I think it should be.
    Any ideas why?

    • Check that your PWM signal is really 100%. Many PWM signals can’t actually get all the way to 100%. Move the PWM input to a digital pin and just drive it high directly – if that runs faster, then you’ve found the cause.

  • This motor driver works great for the Magician Robot Chassis. I’ve created PWM code using the MSP430. The code can be found at MSP430 TB6612FNG Driver Code

  • I want to control the speed of a 5v DC (0,15A, 50mm x 15mm) computer brushless fan that will be powered by a battery pack (4x AA rechargeables= 4,8v) or with a USB outlet. Would this driver be able to do this? Is there a dimmer switch out there that I could plug between the batteries and the fan? (I’m a newbie in electronic; I’m looking for something really simple.
    Thanks

  • Does anyone know if the chip’s internal output diodes are for kickback protection or only there for ESD protection?
    I see that the typical application diagram shows no external diodes, but I’m curious if anyone has experienced problems with this, or the similar Pololu breakout.

    • The datasheet provides a back-emf warning at the end. I would assume the internal diodes are only there for ESD protection, they are probably not fast enough for back-EMF suppression, although the chip will probably not self-destruct immediately if you skip the external diodes.

  • Did anybody tried to use the TB6612FNG with the Arduino Uno or Mega to control stepper motor? Preferably using three drivers and three motors? Thanks

  • This motor driver is amazing. It is so small and so reliable. I use it to drive my iphone controlled search and rescue robot. It drives 4 micro 100/1 motors and tracks.The size of the board makes even better. The only con is that it does not have protection against back EMF. Overall very pleased.

    • From looking at the data sheet the internal schematic on page 3 shows 4 diodes on the output pin to protect from back EMF in the standard H driver setup.

      • Those internal protection diodes are probably not fast enough to catch back EMF. There are there for lockup protection. You should probably add your own back EMF protection diodes, fast ones.

      • thanks that helps

  • I don’t get it. Does this thing output PWM (based on the input), or does it ramp up current/voltage based on the PWM input? If I only want my motors to go Forward (ie: I’ll only ever be using one of the four “modes”), do I need this thing?

    • Also, does this chip protect against back EMF, or should I add diodes to the circuit just in case?

      • Does it ramp or does is PWM?:<br />
        It outputs a PWM. You are relying on your motor to be the low pass filter. Almost all DACs work like this at some level. <br />
        <br />
        Do I need this?<br />
        Nope! but you can do 4 motors with this in 1 direction each!, so thats pretty cool. All YOU need is one Mosfet. Tie one terminal to gnd and the other to the FET, and just switch that. <br />
        <br />
        Are we protected against back EMF?<br />
        Nope… if you are using something like LiPo/LiIon battery I would definitely be worried about this. If you are using a sealed lead acid or alkaline, don’t worry about it unless you have super inductive loads, all you will do is recharge the battery. You will have to use your own judgement for NiCAD, NiMH etc.

        • Kickback will degrade the chip, and wouldn’t “recharging” an alkaline battery be bad? Heh, somehow I’m clueless with motor drivers at the same time…

  • I’ve been using this board for a little while in a project, and i’ve noticed that it seems to function just fine without any power applied to the logic (VCC) pin. So far, I haven’t noticed any issues, but i’m curious if anyone has any thoughts on whether or not this is a good/bad idea? Motor operation seems to be unaffected with it powered or not. Also, spec sheet says that the TB6612FNG has a VM in minimum of 4.5 V, currently i’m supplying it with 2 AAA batteries (right now, at 2.6 V) and nothing on the VCC line, am I going to fry this thing?

    • There’s usually a protection diode on VCC. I’m guessing you’re inadvertently powering the chip through its internal protection diode. I wouldn’t recommend that: the protection diode isn’t rated for high current, so you will probably eventually end up toasting that internal diode.

      Why not just connect VM and VCC?

      As a previous poster mentioned, exceeding the low range of VM will cause your rise times to be slower, but that shouldn’t cause any harm, as long as your PWM rate is also relatively low.

  • I got some of these for a project I was working on, and they are very easy to use. Each one can drive 2 separate motors that pull up to 1A each, or you can wire them both in parallel (send the same PWM to both A & B) and hook up both outputs to one motor to get up to 2A. I used an Arduino to control them, but any microcontroller with PWM outputs will work.
    Fantastic + Cheap = Awesome

  • No i mean can i use it for Vm to power the motors?

    • Bit of a late reply, but yes, the H bridge will switch anything down to 4.5 V (and up to 15V) as a motor supply. You can likely go quite a bit lower, but you may not get reliable switching. For instance, if you were to use a 3V supply you may get a slow rise time. <br />
      <br />
      Just be sure you use the 6V for the VM only and not the VCC or signal levels.

  • Can I use a 6.0V -1.7 Ah battery with this?

  • I am fairly new to electronics and am wondering if you can wire a Micro Metal 30:1 Gearmotor directly to this driver or is there extra circuitry required to provide the correct amount of current? What is a recommended means for a power supply with that motor and this driver, and is their additional circuitry their or would that connect directly to Vm?

    • Hi Jwalker, The motor driver can actually supply power to 2 of those motors. It allows you to pass more current and voltage to the motors than a micro controller can handle. If you were to pass the same amount of power required to run a motor with though say an Arduino, you would fry the Arduino.
      I used this motor driver with the mini sumo bot “Scrapper” that we entered in Robothon ‘09. For the bot I used 2 lipos run in Series to supply 7.4V. This allowed enough power to run the motors well, and also was a low enough supply voltage to be regulated down by the Arduino on board. This let me use one power supply for the system.
      If you are just getting started with electronics, the Arduino is a great starter micro controller unit, and would be a very good unit to use to control this motor driver, unless you already have a different micro controller in mind.
      This might help you out a bit once you start working with the module.
      http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1263858213

      • Thanks for the link to your code! That makes this MUCH clearer. I also had trouble reading Toshiba’s PDF…Did you have to use any diodes for back-EMF protection (if so, where)? I hope to use this with 2 small (6V, 100-400 mA).

      • Thanks for the advice. I have already purchased the Arduino main board. I am just concerned with EMF and causing damage without use of a protection diode (I just dont know how to wire that with this driver to still allow a motor to be bidirectional)

  • Had someone else try as well, something seems corrupted with the file.

    • OK, another person checked with Adobe Reader and it was OK, apparently it uses asian fonts and that is messing things up

      • Thanks for bringing this to our attention. We will look for a new datasheet for this module. I had to download an Asian font set as well. It corrected some of the issues, but there still seems to be some errors. If we can find a better document, we will post it shortly. Also for anyone experiencing issues with this document, be sure to have your Adobe Update download the needed fonts. It will help allot.

  • Anyone else have problems with the attached datasheet? Some of the entries in the table are just garbled text. Tested with Sumatra PDF and Foxit.

  • If you are looking for that part in the Sparkfun eagle library they named it “TB6621FNG” instead of “TB6612FNG"
    mix the 21 instead of 12
    you can also make a search of "toshiba” and check the description box and look for sparkfun.
    have fun!

  • Is there any reason why I couldn’t wire both channels to a motor in parallel to get ~2A on one motor?

  • I played around with this today and got it to work fine. I also hooked up a BlueSMiRF to remote control it. Here is some code I shared:
    http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1263858213
    Hope you enjoy.

  • it says that the input signals need to be PWM. Dose this mean that i can just hook up my RC reciever to it?

    • PWM stand for pulse width modulation. You’ll need a microcontroller to send pulses to the chip. I just got the board, so I havn’t figured out how to control the speed but sending a high signal to AIN1 and a low to AIN2 controls the direction.

      • Having lots of success with this driver, the dual motor gearbox from Tamiya, and the Duemilanove. Very easy to control with analogWrite().

  • Could someone explain how to use the input signals to set the motor in one of four function modes (CW, CCW, short-brake, and stop) ?


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