Arduino-Compatible PTH Kit

Replacement:DEV-10908. The new version of this board got some minor hardware changes and a major name change! This page is for reference only.

This kit contains everything you need to build your very own Uno-Compatible development board! Simply follow the Assembly Guide and after some basic soldering, you'll have made a fully-functional Arduino-compatible board (in fashionable SparkFun Red). The included ATmega328 comes pre-loaded with the Arduino "Optiboot" bootloader so you don't have to worry about loading the firmware, simply solder it together, connect an FTDI Basic and load your favorite Arduino sketch!

Note: You will need either an FTDI Basic or FTDI cable to load code.

  • 1 x Arduino-Compatible PTH Kit PCB
  • 1 x ATMega328 with Optiboot bootloader
  • 1 x MCP1700 3.3V Voltage Regulator
  • 1 x 5mm Green LED
  • 1 x 5mm Red LED
  • 2 x 330Ohm Resistor
  • 2 x 10kOhm Resistor
  • 1 x 16MHz Crystal
  • 2 x 22pF Ceramic Capacitors
  • 5 x 0.1uF Ceramic Capacitors
  • 2 x 100uF Electrolytic Capacitors
  • 1 x LM7805 5V Regulator
  • 1 x Diode 1N4001
  • 1 x Resettable Fuse PTC
  • 1 x 28-Pin DIP Socket (To seat your ATMega)
  • 1 x Push Button Reset Switch
  • 2 x 6-Pin Female Headers
  • 2 x 8-Pin Female Headers
  • 1 x 6-Pin Right Angle Header (To connect your FTDI Basic)
  • 1 x 0.1uF Capacitor
  • 1 x DC Barrel Jack



Looking for answers to technical questions?

We welcome your comments and suggestions below. However, if you are looking for solutions to technical questions please see our Technical Assistance page.

  • TheRobberDotCom / about 13 years ago / 1

    May I suggest re-doing the layout so that those tall electrolytics can lie down? I haven't bought this kit, but a big part of the Arduino world is the shields.

  • salsa / about 13 years ago / 1

    It looks like a shield wouldn't fit on top with those tall electrolytic caps. Or, do kits ship with shorter ones?

    • S.F.E._Rocks!!! / about 13 years ago / 1

      if you buy the stackable header kit ( and use those instead of the included female headers, the stackable headers will be taller than the electrolytic caps.

    • onlysix / about 13 years ago / 1

      no so well with the protoshield, other shields may fit better. The 330 ohm resistors are touching the top of the caps and the pins just barely make contact.

  • S.F.E._Rocks!!! / about 13 years ago / 1

    u guys should sell the ATMEGA328 chips with that cool sticker on them

  • emihackr97 / about 13 years ago / 1

    Honestly, why would someone buy this if it costs the same as an Arduino UNO, which has USB capabilities?

    • SomeGuy123 / about 13 years ago / 2
    • rotor / about 13 years ago * / 1

      If current consumption is an issue then a quick measurement shows that this board draws only 22 mA with nothing connected (ok, I changed the LED current limiting resistors R1 and R2 from 330 ohm to 1 kohm), the UNO on the other hand uses 48 mA under the same conditions.

  • Just wondering - The Eagle files for this have no connections to the ground of the DC barrel jack and no connections to some of the FTDI header pins, amongst others. Is this because they are supposed to connect to copper fill thats attached to ground? just seemed strange?? Thanks.

    • SomeGuy123 / about 13 years ago * / 1

      Everything is connected correctly on the schematic. Try typing "rat" into the Eagle command line.

  • onlysix / about 13 years ago / 1

    I really don't know why, but I like the fact that this uses the FTDI Basic. The USB plug on the UNO and others seems antiquated to my brain, like I am plugging into a printer. Don't ask me why, I wouldn't know how to answer. To me, the pins make it look more complex than it is, and it keeps in tradition with the Arduino Pros i already own; plus, like jrossetti said, Sparkfun Red is a nice touch. Thanks for making this version Sparkfun.

    • Thanks!
      Yeah, if you are at all into this hobby, you have at least one FTDI, so there's no real need to include another onboard.

      • i think that you should give us a choice between the FTDI and the original serial connector used on arduino

      • In extension to that, using FTDI is cooler, easier to design with, frees up real estate and if everyone uses it, it is universal, and it's cheaper.

  • RJR / about 13 years ago / 1

    Is that a sticker on the ATMega328?

    • tiagofumo / about 13 years ago / 1

      I don't know if it's a common sticker or a simple piece of paper with some sticky tape, but yeah... it's something that someone putted on the top of the atmega to keep track of what pins you are hooking up. This is a breadboard kit as well so this atmega can be taken away from the arduino board and putted on a breadboard

      • Yep, it's a sticker we put on there so you can better see which pins are which.

        • Can we get the file that you used for the sticker so that we could print it out and use it on our own breadboard Arduinos? I've seen the same sticker in MAKE, and I really need it...

          EDIT: just saw Bruce The Hoon's comment, never mind! :)

  • SomeGuy123 / about 13 years ago / 1

    I question the pricing on this board. Shouldn't it be less, since there is no on-board Usb?

    • It's a kit, and PTH components cost a lot more than SMD. It's more for educational use and we don't intend people to use this kit to save money over a normal Arduino. Some people just want to build their own to learn.
      I had this response prepared because I knew someone would ask. :-)

      • jrossetti / about 13 years ago / 3

        As a side note, building a 'duino in SparkFun Red (for the arduino collector) is worth that price tag.

      • jpbot / about 13 years ago / 1

        Nice kit, the 3v3 regulator is a nice touch for those using sensors that only run 3v3. A 3v3 version might be fun--for the premium cost of this kit stepping up and using a LM1117T-5 instead of the LM7805 would be nice in the next rev. Then 3v3 operation is a simple mod since a pin-compatible 3v3 part could be subbed and the small 3v3 regulator jumpered.
        People that are into this hobby are probably better off ordering the add-on kit, ATMega and crystal. I know I have all the rest of parts in my bins. That got me thinking, $15 for the missing parts? There are kits out there in the $13-$18 range (no 3v3). Are you sure you didn't mean to price this at 24.95? I ask because the add-on kit plus missing parts, unless I made a mistake, is $25.35 in your store. Public wishlist here:

      • SomeGuy123 / about 13 years ago / 1

        Sounds fair enough. +1

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