This is a 16 character by 2 line display that runs at 3.3V. Utilizes the common ST7066/HD44780 parallel interface (datasheet). Interface code is widely available for many different controllers and systems. You will need ~11 general I/O pins to interface to this LCD screen. Includes white LED backlight.
This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.
Skill Level: Noob - Some basic soldering is required, but it is limited to a just a few pins, basic through-hole soldering, and couple (if any) polarized components. A basic soldering iron is all you should need.
See all skill levels
If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.
Skill Level: Rookie - You will need a better fundamental understand of what code is, and how it works. You will be using beginner-level software and development tools like Arduino. You will be dealing directly with code, but numerous examples and libraries are available. Sensors or shields will communicate with serial or TTL.
See all skill levels
If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Competent - You will be required to reference a datasheet or schematic to know how to use a component. Your knowledge of a datasheet will only require basic features like power requirements, pinouts, or communications type. Also, you may need a power supply that?s greater than 12V or more than 1A worth of current.
See all skill levels
Based on 3 ratings:
1 of 1 found this helpful:
It's really nice to be able to use an LCD display with lower-voltage development boards with no hassle about signal levels. Though I prefer to power my displays from a separate rail, it's no big deal, since the low-voltage boards usually run off 5V anyway. Thank you for offering a 3V version of this classic visual output device!
4 of 4 found this helpful:
At first I couldn't get it to work, then as I dug around the arduino.cc tutorials I noticed in the graphics they had that the board was rotated 180° from how I was attempting to use it. I had interpreted the - and + symbols on the board as being ground and Vcc respectively, going off of Peter Fleury's webpage linked in the article, when in fact they were actually the backlight LED cathode and anode (respectively). For anyone who might have less technical knowledge than me, I'll simplify this paragraph by saying that the LCD screen's letters rightside-up have the pins above them, and said pins are numbered increasing left to right, so that if you number the screw-hole closest to the pins as 0, the rest work out correct in accordance with Peter Fleury's page, with the addition of pins 15 and 16 as backlight LED + and - respectively
Also I'm curious to know how consistent the contrast-voltage-to-actual-contrast ratio is so I'll share that my LCD screen works close to best with a 0V - 820Ω - Vcontrast - 3300Ω - 3.3V voltage divider setup.
Also also, when Sparkfun says you'll "need ~11 general I/O pins to interface to this LCD screen" that doesn't account for the fact that you mostly don't need to "read" data from an LCD display and that it works fine for everything I've tried it out with in 4-bit mode, so you really only need Register Select (R/S pin 4), Enable Clock (E pin 6), and Data 4-7 (pin 11, 12, 13, 14), with Read/Write pin 5 driven to ground which adds up to 6 pins, 8 including ground and 3.3V. I've found it quite useful that it can be run entirely over a spare ethernet (8P8C RJ-45 tested with Cat5e) cable with the proper breakout boards.
This LCD works pretty good, and truly works at +3.3Vdc very clearly. I have it in use with an I2C backpack and it makes its use super easy. I have the LCD by itself drawing about 1.5mA without backlight and 18.4mA with backlight. You can't really see the display without the backlight so backlight OFF is really a lower power state but nothing more.