miked13

Member Since: July 5, 2006

Country: United States

  • I second Mschreib28’s comment. I’d love to see the I2C broken out to actual headers as well as the Qwiic connector. Personally the Quiic connector doesn’t help making a shield or daughter board for the processor board and that is my preferred way to add accessories to an MCU.

  • What if I’ve already had a successful kickstarter campaign and have a product in small production runs but I’d love to work to get my product in sparkfun’s catalog. Trying to partner with distribution is not easy. Is this platform for that as well?

  • What if I’ve already had a successful kickstarter campaign but I’d love to work to get my product in sparkfun’s catalog. Trying to partner with distribution is not easy. Is this platform for that as well?

  • I find running a 6-32 or larger tap and I have no problem using machine screws in raw plastic when I print with a 0.2mm nozzle. Design a standard tapped hole, run a drill bit though it to clean it out and then run a tap though it. Make a very nice clean tapped hole.

  • I use a automotive spray body filler on PLA and then lightly sand them with a 600 grit wet sand paper. The printed parts look like they were professionally made. Since the Body filler is a primmer as well a light coat of paint and they look like a professionally made part not a 3d printed one.

  • I didn’t save mine off either =( I recommend emailing it out to the email address you first type in at the beginning.

  • Thanks for the reply and I look forward to reading more about your companies experience with this machine! You can run my esp programmer if you want to try those parts saves me from hand poping one.

  • Where do I start with my questions =)

    • Have you tried it on WS2812’s or SK6812s? (or other J lead components)
    • I know you said it’s not great with QFN’s is this the case with BGA/ LGA commponents as well? I do a lot with lead-less packages these days.
    • A board i make a lot of has one FT231XS-R chip on it and a Mini USB. Try anything like that with it? ( think based on your info the Mini USB won’t clear your Z height)

    Would be nice to automate this build. I’ve gotten quite fast as hand populating the board with my manual PnP. I can usually stencil and pop the board in 5-6min (34 SMD parts) but when I have to make 100 of them it would be nice to do them automated.

  • Ohh! I want to know more. I almost bought one last year! I have a Chineese reflow oven (T-962A) and I love it so I’ve been really thinking about the Chinese PnP machines. I currently have a manual pick and place setup with vacuum and tape reel dispensers.

  • Nate and Sparkfun! Some awesome projects you helped make possible over the years! Can’t wait for the next 15 years!