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March 24, 2009
about a month ago
MIne are not on a white backing rather it’s a clear substrate and it does not seem possible to peel them off. Are you saying just the metallic and chip peel off. Doesn’t seem possible.
Stupid question but one is to cut these out of the 5-pack and are the small bits of print separate from the main body at the extreme ends of each tag important to maintain?
about 2 months ago
P.S.-Didn’t receive the ‘Thermal Gap Filler’ with my order
Got mine. Been trying to download the Universal Reader software and server doesn’t respond. Went to ThingMagic and don’t see it there.
Excellent, although I’m going to start out with your breakout board just to be sure. The thing about the PCB antenna vs. an external antenna is I don’t see a comparison of what you get out of your PCB board power out versus best case external antenna. From what I read it seems to imply that the PCB antenna can still give a respectable 16 feet. Would you agree? Also, the warning that output should be 8 inches from a person to comply with FCC rules kind of trips up me wanting this to be a wearable. I don’t suppose there is a way to directionally guide that output by ‘steering’ it somehow?
So essentially, if you had the module, you’d only need the left hand part of your schematic ‘RFID module’ and an FTDI adaptor to run that windows gui, yes?
WILL SPARK FUN BE SELLING THE NANO MODULE ALONE. IF SO AND BOARDED PROPERLY, WOULD IT WORK USING THE FTDI CONNECT AND WINDOWS SOFTWARE OUT OF THE BOX OR DOES IT NEED PROGRAMMING TO ACCOMPLISH THAT?
about 3 months ago
So I just got this and wondered about the conditions necessary for the device to determine if a finger is present ‘enough’ to enroll. Here’s what I’m getting at; if I draw a little image on a piece of paper and substitute that for a finger, I can get a raw image but the device times out for both enrolling and ‘get image’ meaning I suppose the image did not meet some requirement of the device to do what it does. Any ideas on this criteria?
Oh and two things might be of interest, the software will run on XP fine and I’ve removed the cameras enclosure and it’s just that, an image sensor with LEDs surrounding it (removing that did not allow for ‘get image’ or enroll).
about a year ago
Really my point was something that I agree is great for wood and size (but not my thing) is that for what you get, it is my opinion it is over-priced. This would be so easy to piece together on a much smaller budget.
And I have to very much disagree about the Sherline not being a contender for plastics. I mostly use mine for polycarbonate milling and with the right feed and speed and excellent end mills (from Precise Bits) I’ve had beautiful results. Not sure how to post a pic if that is possible, but I’d show you if I could.
I think something like this should more shoot for a much lower price point. If you cost out the parts, there’s no way you’ll get a 3rd of the final price as production costs. I know this is a gantry and not strictly a cnc but if I was in the market for something that was a contender, I’d rather invest $500 more than the price and get something like a Sherline (this is the cost of a cnc ready mill and then shopping around for drivers and steppers and not get a complete Sherline package. But still here, you must buy a router; the Sherline comes with a real headstock). I use a Sherline 2000 mill with all the bells and whistles (including a rotary table) and I cut boards using PCB-Gcode and all sorts of mechanical parts including gears and pulleys.This would be attractive at the right price but $1K isn’t close to that.
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