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Description:  Arduino is an open-source physical computing platform based on a simple i/o board and a development environment that implements the Processing/Wiring language. Arduino can be used to develop stand-alone interactive objects or can be connected to software on your computer (e.g. Flash, Processing, MaxMSP). The open-source IDE can be downloaded for free (currently for Mac OS X, Windows, and Linux).

The Arduino Mega is a microcontroller board based on the ATmega2560. It has 54 digital input/output pins (of which 14 can be used as PWM outputs), 16 analog inputs, 4 UARTs (hardware serial ports), a 16 MHz crystal oscillator, a USB connection, a power jack, an ICSP header, and a reset button. It contains everything needed to support the microcontroller; simply connect it to a computer with a USB cable or power it with a AC-to-DC adapter or battery to get started. The Mega is compatible with most shields designed for the Arduino Duemilanove or Diecimila.

The Mega 2560 R3 also adds SDA and SCL pins next to the AREF. In addition, there are two new pins placed near the RESET pin. One is the IOREF that allow the shields to adapt to the voltage provided from the board. The other is a not connected and is reserved for future purposes. The Mega 2560 R3 works with all existing shields but can adapt to new shields which use these additional pins.

Not sure which Arduino or Arduino-compatible board is right for you? Check out our Arduino Buying Guide!

Features:

  • ATmega2560 microcontroller
  • Input voltage - 7-12V
  • 54 Digital I/O Pins (14 PWM outputs)
  • 16 Analog Inputs
  • 256k Flash Memory
  • 16Mhz Clock Speed

Documents:

Replaces: DEV-09949

Comments 40 comments

  • any idea when it will be back in stock?

  • Is there such thing as a ATmega2560 that is through hole instead of surface mount?

  • I have a vendor claiming that the Mega 2560 he shipped to us is a Rev3 although it is not indicated on the silkcreen. Simple question, are all R3’s marked as R3 or not necessarily? Thanks.

    • If it’s an official one, it should have the R3 in the silkscreen. You could also check the board’s components, as the R3 has some changes that would be easily spotted. See also arduino.cc: Arduino Mega 2560

      • Thanks. That’s what I thought. Visually the R3 changes are identical on this new board, as per your reference, with the exception of any markings that it is an R3. Believe it or not, this “minor” detail is holding up production.

  • Is this an official mega from arduino?

  • Wow, i have never had so many issues with an Arduino board as i have with this one. Uploading fails 99% of the time. ‘avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout’. Common problem if you google it. Have tried every suggestion out there. Next step is apparently to upload a new bootloader,. I am going to keep battling with it, but unless you really need the extra pins stick with a board that works, see if the extra pins on the Leonardo or Nano will get you going. This mega clearly has issues.

    • I should add i can load the simplest of sketches onto it no problem. The one i am stuck with is only 18k though and it loads fine onto a Uno R3, i just need the extra pins and can’t for the life of me get an 18k upload to complete on this Mega. I have tried every suggestion the interwebs has to offer. I am amazed that this thing has not been disontinued or replaced givem how many hits you find if you google ‘Arduino Mega upload issues’.

  • When the windows machine says unknown device, do this: http://thegeekoftheworld.com/arduino-mega-2560-drivers-install/comment-page-1/

  • The Schematic Document above is not the R3. You can tell by the ATmega8U2 used instead of the ATmega16U2.

  • Does anyone know the temperature range of this board? Can it be used outdoors in a Northeast winter? It will be kept dry in an enclosure, but it can’t be kept warm. It will stay outdoors and there won’t be any sudden temperature changes. Thanks.

  • Since this has multiple serial ports is this the best way to support multiple RFID readers?

  • Does this come with the download cable, or do I have to order that separately?

  • you can get this cheaper on Mouser.com. Best place to go, 58 bucks for this, you get it on mouser for 30 bucks. I always notice everything is so much higher on sparkfun. The only thing I bought from here were some LED drivers I couldn’t find in individual purchase.

    • That is not really correct. The Mouser price is closer to $40 than it is to $30. AFAIK, Mouser does not do a lot of development, support, or tutorials for this - they are primarily targeting the professional/commercial market, while Sparkfun is primarily targeting the hobbyist market. If you want to bargain basement shop, why not go all out and order some crappy Chinese knock off that does nothing to support the community? But if you are a hobbyist I would suggest you support companies like Sparkfun, Adafruit, EMS, Jameco, etc.,. Some of us who are doing commercial things and making a lot of purchases from the commercial suppliers still buy some stuff from folks like Sparkfun - it is pretty handy to be able to prototype an idea using a BOB. Besides, I like the idea of supporting these businesses.

      Bottom line - if you want to have the goodies made available by a business catering to you, don’t be such a bloody cheapskate, and don’t abuse their open comment policies by undercutting them on their own site. Of course, if you are manufacturing a commercial product and buying chips in quantity, then price sensitivity is a different story.

      P.S. Sparkfun is actually a little cheaper than “The Lady” on this one.

      • Very well said. There is more to consider here than saving a few bucks. The whole Arduino world is built on the idea of open source, supporting eachother, and loyalty. Sparkfun offers competitive prices and an amazing selection, plus amazing support. They will get my money because I want to support them and I want them to support me with great tutorials and product resources. Extremely narrow-minded view on life you must have.

  • Anyone else having problems with the Mega’s serial communication? The basic examples such as Serial Event do not work at all.

    • You shouldn’t be having problems with the example code included in the IDE. Make sure your driver for the board is installed correctly. If you cannot get this to work at all, please shoot us an email at techsupport@sparkfun.com. You may simply have a bad board.

  • Can Mega connect directly to an Xbee since it is a 5v and xbee is 3.3v?

    • Hi! I recommend looking into the XBee Explorer Regulated http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9132 board. It translates the 5V serial signals to 3.3V. Email us at Tech Support if you have anymore questions.

  • Can the mega be used as a HID device as it is? And if not what kind of hardware would be required to set up a HID interface?

  • This was my second Arduino board. I first found out after buying that I didn’t need the MEGA at all, well for most of the basic stuff. But hey, it’s 4x faster on uploads than the UNO. For me = JOY. And it looks like I have more homework to do to get something big happen with the MEGA. Just to say that at first I tought that I paid more for something not very usefull for a beginner. Well, not really !

  • I’m thinking of buying this but i have a question before purchase

    Can it be powered directly from usb port?

    • Says on Arduino’s website, yes.

      “The Arduino Mega can be powered via the USB connection or with an external power supply. The power source is selected automatically.”

  • I got this today and I’m having a error

    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

    is all over the internet but no solution so far. Somebody knows something about it?

    • This is generally an issue with the bootloader on the board, or having the wrong board type selected when uploading code. You can try reloading the bootloader as a fix.

      • Wow a very late reply here. LOL. Anyway a quick search on Google shows various issues here. If you have Windows 7 64 bit for instance and this is the first time you are trying to program the Mega then chances are you are running into driver issues. The best way I found to fix this is fairly simple.

        1. Go into device manager.
        2. Find the failed device.
        3. Go into its properties.
        4. Click Driver tab.
        5. Click Update Driver.
        6. Browse my computer.
        7. Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer.
        8. Uncheck the Show Compatible hardware.
        9. Click have disk button.
        10. Find your Arduino program folder and go into its Driver folder.
        11. Click on Arduino Mega 2560 REV3.inf (Or what ever yours is)
        12. Click ok etc until out and walla you should now see it.

        If it is not Windows 7 64 bit you can still try this method. The most important thing is it shows up under the device manager with a valid COM port. If it does not show up under Device Manager properly or shows up but failed then that is the first thing that must be solved.

        I realize this is way late for this member but it might help others who stumble in here.

        • Hi Tekati. Thanks for adding this! Normally if someone is having problems and running Win 7 64 bit, I tell them this and it works almost everytime. 99% of the time it seems like it is related to drivers. :)

  • The Mega 2560 R3 seems an awesome Arduino - I have one on backorder. I know that the schematic is available as a .pdf: a consequence of using Eagle it would appear. My problem is that I can read the schematic by using the appropriate Adobe reader size factor, say, 300%. But then printing with reader’s current view gets scaled according to the “paper size” as shown in the lower left corner when printing to 8 ½ x 11 paper.

    I intend using the Mega 2560 in a course and would like, ideally, to have the complete schematic in both readable AND printable form. This would necessitate splitting it on to ¾ 8 ½ x 11 sheets but this is not a problem. In the current .pdf form this is difficult.

    I have experimented 200 - 300% blowups and taking screen shots using MWSnap 3 (free) and printing the different shots. The use of scissors and sticky tape (tedious!) yields a complete readable hardcopy of the schematic that is not user-friendly.

    Does anyone have a better idea? Or even undertake to produce the schematic on several 8 ½ x 11 paper - the individual sheets do not have to “line-up” for my needs.

    Thanks.

    • Have a poster printed at your local FedEx Kinkos or similar store—they can do it directly from the PDF, which you can bring on a USB stick.

      • Thanks labreuer. Fedex doesn’t have any Kinkos in Quebec but Staples has numerous Copy Centers. They printed the schematic on 11"x17" which is quite readable and much less expensive (although smaller) than a banner at ~$1.50 a copy. I may still get a banner printed to put up on the wall for class purposes.

        Problem solved!.

        • Well, no, your problem is not solved. The schematic on the Arduino Web site is not consistent with the R3 board. The most obvious discrepancy is that two of the connectors are 2 pins longer than the schematic claims them to be; I expect there are less obvious discrepancies too. If we’re lucky, the Arduino gang (or someone else) will post a correct schematic before the action moves to R4, leaving R3 an undocumented orphan. I’d have expected SparkFun to warn customers about this product.

          • I knew that there were discrepancies between The Arduino schematic and the R3 product as shipped (just got mine). At least I work on the hard copy to make the corrections in a m ore or less permanent manner.

            I totally agree that Arduino (or someone) should release a schematic that is consistent with the R3 product Indeed the schematic on the Spatkfun site that available on the Arduino site where they refer to it as a reference design. Arduino is so busy releasing new different products and revisions that they seem to have forgotten who their customer base is and their needs

  • Just got mine in today. I know ESD is a myth :p , but wouldn’t it be a good idea to package these guys in an anti-static bag?


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