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Description: This simple on-off switch is rated for 20A at 12V but who cares about all that, it looks way awesome. These toggle switches come with those missile switch covers that make your project look like something out of a spy movie. They're also a great safety feature to ensure that you don't accidentally fire the missiles (or whatever it is your switch does). As if you needed any more convincing, they're also illuminated with a small LED in the end of the switch. These can be panel mounted into a 12mm hole.

Check the related items below for more color options!

Note: The LED can be illuminated with as low as 3.3V.

Features:

  • Rated for 12V 20A
  • Includes Missile Switch Cover
  • Illuminated

Comments 36 comments

  • These are a bit annoying to wire up correctly. As Member #246694 notes, there are only 3 pins but the pin with the ground symbol is not the common pin – it is only connected to the LED. The pin with the plus on it and the LED pin are connected together when the switch is closed.

    This means that if you want to control the LED and check the switch position independently, you need to wire it up like this:

    • Ground symbol connected to an Output pin
    • (+) symbol connected to an Input pin
    • LED symbol connected to +5V

    Also add a 10K ohm pull-down resistor between the input pin and ground on the Arduino. The Arduino’s internal resistors are pull-up and that won’t work here so we need to do this manually.

    Now to turn the LED on, set the output pin LOW (so current flows from +5V through the LED and to this output pin). To turn it off, set the output pin HIGH (so current cannot go anywhere). Yes, that feels backwards.

    The input pin will be HIGH when closed (as it is connected to 5V), and LOW when open.

    • Thanks for writing this! I was having quite a bit of trouble with this switch until I read this. I wrote a little sample code to go with your comment. It will blink the switch LED, and also turn on/off another LED using a third pin when the switch is toggled. I thought it might help others. In addition to your wiring listed above another LED will need to be hooked up to another output pin. // define pin constants #define SW_LED_PIN 2 #define SW_IO_PIN 3 #define OUT_LED_PIN 4

      void setup()
      {
        pinMode(SW_LED_PIN, OUTPUT);   // LED on the top of the switch
        pinMode(SW_IO_PIN, INPUT);         // reading the state of the switch
        pinMode(OUT_LED_PIN, OUTPUT); // used to turn on and of another LED based on switch state
      }
      
      boolean switch_LED_State = false; // used to blink the LED on the switch
      void loop()
      {
        if (digitalRead(SW_IO_PIN) == HIGH) // read the state of the switch
        {
          digitalWrite(OUT_LED_PIN, HIGH); // if switch is on, turn on the LED
        }
        else
        {
          digitalWrite(OUT_LED_PIN, LOW); // if switch is off turn off the LED
        }
      
        delay(75); // control the rate of blinking
        if (switch_LED_State) 
        {
           // note that the HIGH/LOW state is reversed from the LED state
          switch_LED_State = false;  
          digitalWrite(SW_LED_PIN, HIGH);
        }
        else
        {
           // note that the HIGH/LOW state is reversed from the LED state
          switch_LED_State = true;
          digitalWrite(SW_LED_PIN, LOW);
        }
      }
      

      EDIT: Added some documentation… shame on me for posting code without

      • I’ll just leave this here

        +5V -> Plus Sign (Bottom Left)
        +5V -> 10K RESISTOR -> Any old 5mm LED+ -> LED Terminal (Bottom Right)
        Ground -> Accessory / Ground (Left Hand Side)
        
        Switch is dimly lit when 'Off', 0v @ Ground terminal.
        Switch is bright when 'On', 5v @ Ground terminal.
        
        Attach the Positive of what you want to turn on to the Ground terminal.
        If you just want a switch that goes from dim to bright, connect Ground to Ground.
        
    • How could I do this but with +12V connected to the LED lead?

  • Are the switch load contacts and the LED control contacts separate (4 terminal), or do they share a common ground lug (3 terminal)? Can’t tell from the description or pictures. Makes a HUGE difference.

    If they share a ground (3 terminals) then you’re good to go for DC only projects.

    If the load contacts and LED contacts are separate (4 terminals) then you can control AC loads with the switch contacts and control the LED separately.

  • Actually, I’d think a lot of people would care about the ratings. These switchs can withstand four times the current (albeit at a somewhat low voltage) your regular SPST toggles can! Any chance they have ratings for other voltages, like 50V, 125V, or 250V?

    • I believe it was a joke.

      • Of course it was a joke.:p However, the current ratings at other voltages would be nice, if available. In the case of switches, there aren’t simple but relatively accurate ways to extrapolate or derate values because the mechanical construction can vary quite a bit.

  • Can I get some with a sensor in the lid so I know when it’s open?

    • We don’t sell any like that, but you could add in a reed switch or flex sensor to tell you.

  • Hi I want to put these in my 98 jeep cherokee sport, I’m thinking about switching out my rear defrost, rear wipers, and my fog lights for these switches. I need more help trying to figure out if they will fit or if they won’t, so can anyone help me, also I need to know how I to wire them up, if I get them?

    • I have the same vehicle. If you’re planning on just putting these on the front of the dash, they should fit just fine. If you’re thinking about embedding them somehow, then it’s going to get a bit more complicated.

  • Great switch! But when I ordered I made the mistake of thinking this was mostly for novelty, it’s actually quite heavy duty and ‘clunky’ for lack of a better word. It’s super cool and I’m glad I bought one, but it does take a bit of effort to move from one position to the other. If you know that going in it’s great!

  • When the switch is actuated, can the cover almost act as an emergency OFF! switch by slapping it down?

    EDIT: Just read shardbearer’s comment.

    Thats great.

  • this would be cool with that light pipe you guys sell!

  • Simple. The (+) and the (-) from 9vdc power supply to the (+) and (ground) on the switch. And the (- ground) from switch to board or whatever. Since the ground and led illuminate pins are always connected, then you would wire the LED illuminate symbol (+) to the board or whatever you are powering. Switch off = no led. Switch on = led lit. Led will only get power and light when the board or whatever you are powering is on.

    From PS (+) —> To Switch (+)

    From PS (-) —> To Switch (- ground)–> Also jumped from switch to (-) on board or whatever

    To Board (or whatever)

  • Does this switch turn off when you close the cover?

  • It would be REALLY helpful to have a product spec sheet for these switches with both mechanical and electrical information. I have 8 of these (in various colors) and the LEDs have burned out in most of them – running with the specified 12VDC max.

    Are the LEDs not rated to take 12v? It would be good to state that somewhere – somewhere that is easy to find (not buried 25 comments down in one of 9 product pages, or in an unconnected forum).

    I bought these for a pyrotechnics rig where the LEDs are supposed to give feedback for LIVE. Unfortunately that wont happen now. (it did look cool for a while with flashing leds as associated lines were flashed under arduino/midi control.)

  • What are the physical Measurement for this switch ?

  • need some help with wiring it. i got 3 from here and i tried to wired it to a 9v battery but the led on the toggle wasnt lid what am i missing?

    • I have been bewildered as well, any schematics or tutorials out there? Rather disappointed I can’t make my doomsday device.

      • One side has a ground symbol, plus sign, and an symbol with rays coming out of a half circle (LED positive). If you connect ground to the ground contact, and positive to the LED positive contact it will illuminate. When you flip the switch the plus sign and the LED positive are connected.

        • Actually the LED positive is always connected (even with the switch in OFF mode)

          • Mine does not work that way. The LED pin and the (+) pin are connected only when the switch is ON. Perhaps yours is defective?

    • Try reversing polarity.

  • It be cool if you could rig a model rocket to it and the put it out in public and see how many people would flip the switch.

  • Any idea when these will be back in stock???

  • Can we get a picture or demo video of all the colors while illuminated? Maybe a day/night comparison too?

  • Does the LED need a resistor in series?


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