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Description: This is the SparkFun MOSFET Power Control Kit, a breakout PTH soldering kit for for the RFP30N06LE N-Channel MOSFET. This kit is extremely simple to assemble with only 10 pins to solder. If you are looking for a little more control over projects that require a little more power than normal but need a better way than your breadboard, this kit is perfect for you

Included in each kit is a SparkFun MOSFET Power Control PCB, two screw terminals (one 2-pin and one 3-pin), a 10k resistor, and a single RFP30N06LE MOSFET. What we really like about this particular MOSFET is that it’s very common and offers very low on-resistance with a control (gate) voltage that is compatible with any 3-5V microcontroller or mechanical switch. This allows you to control high-power devices with very low-power control mechanisms.

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Customer Comments

  • Can this guy control 48V motor?

  • Can someone explain the 10K resistor in this circuit? Does it provide ESD protection?

    • MOSFET gates are easily damaged when left floating because there is no circuit path for static discharge. (Other than through the thin gate insulation which would be bad). With a pull-down resistor on the gate you create another path. Also you ensure the MOSFET is in the off state when disconnected.

  • I love these little things but really wish they would come with an optional 1N4007 diode for flyback elimination when driving an inductive load.

  • Would it be okay to send about 10 A at about 12 V through one of these? I’m looking to build a BLDC motor control circuit and 10 A is the stall current of the motor.

    • The schematic says that the pcb traces only allow for 3.5 amps.

    • Survey says: Yes. Datasheet says 60 volts max drain, and 30 (!!!) amps continuous. (Power dissipation is 96 watts to +25 degrees centigrade.)

      TBH: I’d have more concern over those screw terminals and the traces than the MOSFET itself. (Terminals are rated for 6 amps as 125 VAC.)

      • Actually the datasheet says “maybe”. Looking at Figure 1 it looks like 10A at 12V is just slightly out of it’s safe operating area for DC. If you’re using a pulse width of 100ms or shorter you should be fine, but if you’re using this as a switch to just turn the motor on you might have an issue especially if your environment is warmer than 25C. If I was going to give this a try I’d make sure to exceed the datasheet’s recommended heat sink and/or use active cooling on it to give myself a better chance that it won’t toast itself. Just my $.02

        PS: 12V at 10A DC is 120W which is greater than it’s 96W power dissipation.

        • Wouldn’t that depend on where this 12 V actually is? If the MOSFET is turned on hard (say Vgs = 5V) Rds(on) will be about 0.047 ohms, at 1/20 of an ohm, 10A across the MOSFET is about 1/2V (the other 11.5V is across the motor) That would be around 5W for the MOSFET, one would want a heat sink, but otherwise it seems to me that would be ok. If one it trying to turn in on with 3V, I’d suggest one be generous with the heat sink with Vgs =3, Rds(on) may be 2 or 3 times as high as it is at 5V, if I’m interpreting figure 6 correctly.

          • Keep in mind that 10 A is the stall current, which will always be higher than the run current. Testing for a stall condition shouldn’t be too hard (built-in reed switches). I used to have a link to the motors datasheet, but it quit working and I deleted it. The motor has three leads instead of four. I forget the configuration name, but it requires two leads to be used at a time: one tied to Vcc, one to Vdd, and one disconnected altogether. I would need six of these things to be able to run the motor and I was trying to determine what my best option is (mosfet switches or solid state relays or whatever else).

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