This is the SparkFun MOSFET Power Control Kit, a breakout PTH soldering kit for for the RFP30N06LE N-Channel MOSFET. This kit is extremely simple to assemble with only 10 pins to solder. If you are looking for a little more control over projects that require a little more power than normal but need a better way than your breadboard, this kit is perfect for you
Included in each kit is a SparkFun MOSFET Power Control PCB, two screw terminals (one 2-pin and one 3-pin), a 10k resistor, and a single RFP30N06LE MOSFET. What we really like about this particular MOSFET is that it’s very common and offers very low on-resistance with a control (gate) voltage that is compatible with any 3-5V microcontroller or mechanical switch. This allows you to control high-power devices with very low-power control mechanisms.
Note: While the MOSFET is rated to 60V 30A, the circuit board traces are only rated to 3.5A.
If you are using the MOSFET Power Control Kit with motors and solenoids, make sure to add a flyback diode between the motor and solenoid’s terminal for protection similar to the schematic shown below:
The example uses an NPN BJT but the circuit is similar if you were using the N-Channel MOSFET.
For more information about flyback diodes, check out our tutorial on Diodes: Diode Applications - Flyback Diodes and Voltage Spike Suppression. There are also two examples used in our old inventor’s kit in circuit 12 and circuit 13. For a schematic, check out the inventor’s kit manual on page 65 and 69.
Feel free to look at this tutorial on the n-channel MOSFET as an example and for tips on using the transistor => http://bildr.org/2012/03/rfp30n06le-arduino/.
The n-channel mosfet kit can be used to toggle a dc load when wired as a high-side load switch. As an example, we can use a microcontroller and one n-channel mosfet to toggle one color of the 12V non-addressable LED strip [ https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12023 ]. Below is an explanation of the pinouts and how to connect the system together:
“C” = Gate, connect to microcontroller I/O
“-” = Source, for reference connect microcontroller’s GND and the power source’s GND
“+” = Vcc, connect to the “+” terminal of your power source
“-” = Drain, connect this to “R”, “G”, or “B” cathode (-) of the 12V LED strip
“+” = 12V, connect to “12V” pin of the 12V LED Strip
We have a simple picture showing how to hook this up here with a DC load.
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Based on 12 ratings:
3 of 3 found this helpful:
The MOSFET is rated for 60 volts, 30 amps.
The circuit board traces are rated only for 3.5 amps.
This information should be included in the description of the product. It’s misleading.
Sorry about the mix-up. We did have it listed in the schematic file under documents, but I can see how it would be misleading. We’ve added that as a note under the description. Thanks for raising that to our attention.
2 of 2 found this helpful:
good luck wiring this without Eagle. The schematic makes some sense but doesn’t correspond with the board markings… whats this RAW tag in eagle… what the heck does RAW mean..
I’d also have more landings for source as you at least always need to connect your control source and your high voltage source, right? Well assuming that you have two different voltages, say a 3.3 volt uController and a 12volt LED. That would make this a nice little board.
We use RAW to label power lines that have not passed through a voltage regulator, or to mark a variable voltage input into the system. There is usually a note designating the acceptable voltage range near the input on the schematic. In this case, the device can take a voltage up to 60V.
I’m sorry the connection steps were not clearer, this tutorial may help others in their hook up - http://bildr.org/2012/03/rfp30n06le-arduino/
3 of 4 found this helpful:
In the end I had to buzz this out as I found the layout very confusing.
1 of 2 found this helpful:
Behind each screw terminal block, there are holes for 0.1" pitch headers. I thought these would work well for breadboard use. However, Sparkfun designed the board so that the 2-hole side falls directly in the gaps between the 3-hole side. This does not allow for smooth insertion into a breadboard. Also, the header rows are spaced just slightly off between the 2 rows so the breadboard wants to pull the headers apart. The board should be slightly tweaked to allow for use in a breadboard.
Not much to this. Nice easy way to add a MOSFET to a project that doesn’t otherwise need a board. Would be nice if it had a mounting hole on the board.
The Mosfet Power Control Kit is fine except for its documentation. I soldered the product together and used my VOM to figure out where the traces went. I drew a simple schematic of what the “device” does and from there the inclusion in a project was easy.
I will email a drawing of the controller schematic for you to consider for your documentation upgrade.
0 of 2 found this helpful:
The easiest way to dim LEDs!
I’m building a homemade pinball machine and needed something to drive the solenoids(coils). These kits fit the bill, easy to assemble and work perfectly.
This is a good product to quickly control ~3A loads from a MCU
I use these little boards to add LED lighting control to my Photon boards. I’ve experimented with using custom PCBs for my Photon based projects that incorporate this functionality, but each Photon board ends up controlling a different number LEDs. I’ve found that creating a generic PCB for the MCU, and attaching as many of these as needed works pretty well. These are super easy to assemble and connect, especially in my RV since lighting is all 12v anyways. I’ve never had a problem with these boards, and I’m currently using a couple dozen of them. I give it 4 stars instead of 5 because the output screw terminal is too small for the heavy gauge wire used in my RV. I can fix this though by using a larger screw terminal block that I purchase separately.
I am working with an raspberry pi 3 and have an actuator that needs 24 volts. And this circuit is perfect for this! so now i am controlling it with a 3.3 volts PWM an it converts it to 24 volts PWM.