Please see all COVID-19 updates here as some shipments may be delayed due to CDC safety and staffing guidelines. If you have an order or shipping question please refer to our Customer Support page. For technical questions please check out our Forums. Thank you for your continued support.


Replacement:KIT-10930. We've changed some part footprints and silkscreen print to make this an easier kit for beginning solderers. This page is for reference only.

This is a great kit to learn the basics of soldering. ClockIt is a basic alarm clock with buzzer based on the ever popular ATMega328. If you're just learning how to solder, this kit should take you 15-20 minutes. If you're a weathered pro at soldering, this is a great relaxing build that should take 5-10 minutes.

No programmer required. The ATmega comes with firmware installed!

Open Source Hardware: We like to share. The original engineering files are available for mass hackery.


  • 1 x ClockIt PCB
  • 1 x ATmega328 (pre-programmed)
  • 1 x 4-digit display
  • 1 x buzzer
  • 1 x 10uF cap
  • 1 x 0.1uF cap
  • 2 x 22pF caps
  • 1 x 10k resistor
  • 1 x 16MHz crystal
  • 1 x barrel jack
  • 1 x mini power switch
  • 3 x push button reset switches
  • 2 x Screws
  • 2 x Plastic Standoffs
  • 1 x 5V wall wart
  • Time (AM/PM)
  • Alarm (On/Off)
  • Snooze (alarm resumes after a 9 minute snooze)


Looking for answers to technical questions?

We welcome your comments and suggestions below. However, if you are looking for solutions to technical questions please see our Technical Assistance page.

  • I love this kit! I added a 18650 holder and changed the source code dramatically. I increased the feature set to 4 alarms with different tones for each, 24h time keeping, battery voltage measurement, internal temperature (doesn't work due to VREF tied to VCC), and adjustable display brightness.

  • For the latest compiler versions please change the old ISR (SIG_OVERFLOW1) names to their modern couterparts >> ISR (TIMER1_OVF_vect) / old:ISR (SIG_OVERFLOW2) to new: ISR (TIMER2_OVF_vect)

    to compile: avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega328p -I. -gdwarf-2 -DF_CPU=16000000UL -Os -funsigned-char \ -funsigned-bitfields -fpack-struct -fshort-enums -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes \ -Wa,-adhlns=clockit-v11.lst -std=gnu99 -MD -MP -MF .dep/clockit-v11.o.d clockit-v11.c \ -o clockit-v11.o to program with USBTiny ISP: avrdude -p atmega328p -P usb -c usbtiny -v -v -U flash:w:clockit-v11.hex

  • What is the tolerance for the voltage and amperage input on this project? I want to have it run off of Battery power as well. What batteries could I connect to this without shorting it or under-powering it?

  • I'm surprised that the source code doesn't use the Arduino IDE.

  • I want to modify the code and upload it to the ATMega. It appears that I can build the kit, purchase a six-pin programming header, solder it into the board in the place provided, and proceed with uploading the code. Is this correct?

  • I bought this kit for my 14 year old to build as a little summer holiday project. I was impressed with the quality of the board and parts with one exception. The polarity for an electrolytic cap as well as the piezo are not indicated on the board so we had to go through some trial & error to get it right. I would advise that the PCB is improved with better indications.

  • What color is the display?

  • A 24 hour clock option would be nice.

  • I'm still a little new to programming an 328 outside of an arduino. If I were to build this on a breadboard, do I just burn the provided hex file to the chip? Do I only need the makefile and .c file if I were to tinker with the code?

  • This has always bugged me about Clocks Kits.
    Why isn't the Display mounted on the opposite side of the board so that it can be mounted in a case? Better yet, how about a remote display board where the display separates from the components?

  • Another idea for the next version, add an input from a GPS or radio timecode to ensure accurate timekeeping.

  • An idea for the next version: include a battery backup system on the reverse side so that a small rechargeable battery and charging circuits could be added in case of power failure during the night.

    • Was wondering about adding such a thing myself. Would be great if it was already in the kit!

  • The product page says it uses an ATmega168 but the pictures show an ATmega328... Which one is it?

  • are there any free ports on the arduino?
    what ports?
    how much free space?

Customer Reviews

No reviews yet.