The SparkFun GPS Logger Shield equips your Arduino with access to a GPS module, µSD memory card socket, and all of the other peripherals you’ll need to turn your Arduino into a position-tracking, speed-monitoring, altitude-observing wonder logger. The shield is based around a GP3906-TLP GPS Module – a 66-channel GPS receiver featuring a MediaTek MT3339 architecture and up to a 10Hz update rate. The GPS module will stream constant position updates over a simple TTL-level serial port, which you can then log to a µSD card and/or use for other purposes.
Everything on the shield is highly configurable: A switch allows you to select the GPS module’s UART interface between either hardware or software ports, the µSD card operates over a hardware SPI port, which should be compatible with most Arduino layouts, and extra prototyping space should allow you to add those last, few components you need to complete your project. The GPS Logger Shield’s main voltage supply is taken from the Arduino 5V header pin. This voltage is regulated down to 3.3V, which is supplied to both the GPS module and the µSD card. These two components should consume, about 30mA on average, but they may very occasionally spike to around 100mA. We also highly recommend a 12mm Coin Cell Battery, which fits into the GPS Shield’s battery holder.
Note: The shield does not come with headers installed; we recommend the Arduino Stackable Header Kit.
If you want to fiddle around with the update rate for the GPS module on this shield you can do so by sending MTK NMEA commands via the UART pins for the module we have broken out on this shield. Here are a few helpful links to get you started:
Please note, you will need to change the baud rate of the module to run at a faster speed in order for the module to accept the higher update rate commands.
Standby Mode: In this Mode the receiver stops navigation and internal processor enters standby state current drain at main supply VDD is reduced to 200 μA typ.
Standby Mode is entered by sending NMEA command: $PMTK161,0*28. Host can wake up the module from Standby Mode to full Power Mode by sending any byte via host port.
The shield only draws about 7mA after the command is issued.
This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.
Skill Level: Noob - Some basic soldering is required, but it is limited to a just a few pins, basic through-hole soldering, and couple (if any) polarized components. A basic soldering iron is all you should need.
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If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.
Skill Level: Competent - The toolchain for programming is a bit more complex and will examples may not be explicitly provided for you. You will be required to have a fundamental knowledge of programming and be required to provide your own code. You may need to modify existing libraries or code to work with your specific hardware. Sensor and hardware interfaces will be SPI or I2C.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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Based on 4 ratings:
Easy to setup and start using, and the fact that the programs are on the website allowed me to start logging and testing.
As you probably know I got two of these. The second one had a problem with the battery or battery assembly. The battery voltage (no load) was 3.1V. That could be the problem. Regardless, I had to bypass the battery with the jumper pad and put the supply 3..3V on the VBat to get it too work. Biggest complaint is it took me a while to figure out what was wrong! You might have an old or bad batch of button cells. Your schematics don't show the battery connection!
But I got them both to work and they work well, good instruction set, I am using them to measure latency in a 3.5 mile ethernet connection between a dispatch console and radio system that uses VoIP.
Can't seem to post in Forum so I'm looking for help with advise. Did not have a 3 V Battery so I used the 3VDC jumper and powered the GPS sensor that way.
Now I have a 3VDC battery and need to know if I should cut/de-solder the jumper.
Any advise would be appreciated.