The SparkFun O-Clock can convert your X-Y analog oscilloscope into an analog clock or terminal. In addition, it can be used alone as a function generator. It is very similar to the AVR Oscilloscope Clock Kit, but this board is all SMD and comes fully assembled.
The O-Clock is based around an ATmega328 which is interfaced with a DS1307 RTC module and an AD7302 DAC. A cell battery backup is provided so the clock won’t lose its time. The oscilloscope can be connected to the O-Clock through BNC connectors (not included) or by probing the CH1/2 turrets.
Time and other options can be set using the on-board momentary push buttons, or through the RS-232 interface. A 0.1" pitch header provides access to the UART of the ATmega to allow for an optional USB interface using our FTDI Basic Breakout. GPS modules or other external PPS signals can be connected to serve as an external clock.
The updated firmware found in the Documents section below is loaded with features. There are 37 display combinations to choose from. You can even use the O-Clock in terminal, or function generator modes. In addition, a bootloader allows for easy firmware uploading.
The terminal application can support persistent vector graphics for creating and displaying games, like Asteroids, on other computers.
Power can be provided by USB or an 8-15VDC supply to the center-positive 5.5x2.1mm barrel connector.
Note: Power supply and BNC connectors are not included, see related related items.
If you have the older kit and are looking for more information, it can be found here.
Features in Firmware V4.1:
This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.
Skill Level: Noob - Some basic soldering is required, but it is limited to a just a few pins, basic through-hole soldering, and couple (if any) polarized components. A basic soldering iron is all you should need.
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If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.
Skill Level: Rookie - You will need a better fundamental understand of what code is, and how it works. You will be using beginner-level software and development tools like Arduino. You will be dealing directly with code, but numerous examples and libraries are available. Sensors or shields will communicate with serial or TTL.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Noob - You don't need to reference a datasheet, but you will need to know basic power requirements.
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Based on 7 ratings:
Straight out of the box, power up and it just works. Waiting for source code so I can break this thing….
I had hoped that Sparkfun had better quality control. Not so, cold solder joints plague this board with its intermittent operation draining my valuable time. No time to argue with Sparkfun on this, it has taken enough of my time. If Sparkfun would like to send me a working replacement, that would be nice but meanwhile please save yourself time and money and avoid this.
Sorry about your issues. We have a number of tests and inspection steps in our production process to avoid bad units getting out. However, sometimes a troublesome board can sneak past our processes. We don’t want to argue, if your board is having issues all you need to do is contact Sparkfun Technical Support and we’ll be happy to get that back for inspection and replacement. Thanks
Works straight out of the box– fairly crisp display, even with a 1950s Eico 460 oscilloscope with limited bandwidth.
Surprising amount of customization and mode options– multiple clock faces and apps (e.g. text terminal) ensure that it’s not just a one-trick pony.
Open source, so it’s as much a learning opportunity as a gadget.
It’s simple to connect but wish it was an older style kit form - love to build electronics. After I installed the 2 BNC jacks, it was placed in a small ziplock bag to keep it clean and it’s unnoticeable.
Everything worked great using the probe turrets, but you need to ensure each probe is grounded to the PCB’s ground or you will not get a properly sync’d picture. I used the GND pins located between the turrets to clip the probes to, but wish they had easier locations. Also ensure your probes are properly compensated with your scope’s test clip prior to hooking to the PCB for best picture/geometry.
So, that’s great. I tested it on a scope in x-y mode and it’s working. My final implementation is dependent on hacking into the x and y amps on some video test equipment that was being discarded from my workplace. The good news there is that I found complete documentation on that gear so I feel confident that will all work out once I get a chance to get at it.