Michael Meissner

Member Since: January 2, 2013

Country: United States

  • It depends on which headers. If you are talking about standard male headers, then yes, you can buy the 40 pin sets of headers and cut them down to size.

    However, for female headers, particularly stacking headers, it can be an interesting exercise to find the right size headers. Yes you can cut down larger headers, but then you need to use a dremel or sander to smooth down the edge, and you can’t group multiple headers together without sanding. I’ve been searching for 14 pin stacking headers (for Teensy) for some time.

  • FWIW, I generally prefer to have headers soldered on and I will pay a few $ for it. Can I solder, yes, but I’m not that good at it. Any soldering project involves a lot of checking to make sure I didn’t leave any solder bridges and connected the things that need connection. So, I would rather order stuff with headers attached.

  • Shirley: In terms of compatibility, evidently the pad for the reset pin changed location in the Teensy 3.2 compared to the 3.1 In addition, the pads for USB D-/D+ also changed location. Unless you actually use the 3 pads or use one of the third party shields that had a pogo pin to bring out the reset pad to a pin, it should not present a compatibility problem.

    RobBrownNZ, you might ask the same question at the forums at pjrc.com, which are the development forums for the Teensies.

  • Is this battery protected against over-charging, under-capacity, etc.? Or is it unprotected? I have this battery unit that says for best results, use unprotected batteries (the unit has its own protection circutry and the battery’s evidently interferes with this). I just tested it with two protected batteries that claim to be 4500mA each, but I was only able to draw about 680mA at 5v power (figure about 1.0A at the battery’s native 3.7v).

    The great majority of batteries I see on ebay are protected. I ordered one set of batteries that the seller claimed were unprotected, but they were protected when I opened the box. The seller did refund my money (and corrected the ebay listing for the batteries), but at some point I would like to try it with unprotected batteries.

  • With my next trip, I will get you interested in electronics, and insure that all disposable income goes towards the holy red board (filled with holes). Bwahaha, Bwahaha, Bwahaha.

  • Obviously you are scrambling now to meet all of the orders. Do you have an estimate of how long it will be before the backorder queue will be eliminated? I ordered some 5v Arduino Pro Minis (in my case, order id 933786), and my order is flagged as an exception. I was just wondering if the wait time will be days, weeks, or months?

  • Well, I’ll think I’ll cross this off of my wish lists then. While I agree a lot of breadboards do not have the power rails lining up with the data pins, there are a few that do for at least a few pins. I find having at least a few pins line up for using DIP switches is useful.

    In terms of perf boards, the Adafruit perma-proto quarter/half/full/mint-tin sized boards have all of the power rail pins separated by multiples of 0.1" spacing so that you could easily use larger DIP switch banks or other things. It would be nice if the Adafruit boards didn’t have the gap between the power rails and the data pins, so that you could solder in 3 hole male/female headers to plug in servos or sensors with the normal 0.1" spacing.

    Similarly, the BusBoard Prototype Systems SB400 have one rail that is next to the data pins (unfortunately, the other two sets of power rails on each side are not a multiple of 0.1", but at least for the ground rail, you could use DIP switches). For larger boards, the BusBoard Prototype Systems BR1 does have all of the power rails multiple of 0.1" inches (and the BR1 has 3 power rails, to allow for using external power or mixed voltage systems).

  • SD & khanning: I don’t think Sparkfun sells the connectors to build your own cables. They are available at other electronics sites. For example, pololu sells crimping pin for both female and male ends, crimp connector housing for various numbers of pins, and wires with crimp pins attached if you don’t want to do the crimping part: http://www.pololu.com/search/compare/19

    Another place to look if you want to make removable cables with 2-10 pins is the wafer pack at dipmicro: http://www.dipmicro.com/store/SET-HDR

No public wish lists :(