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Description: This is the Solderable Breadboard. A bare PCB that is the exact size as our regular breadboard with the same connections to pins and power rails. This board is especially useful for preserving a prototype or experiment you just created on a solderless breadboard by soldering all the pieces in place.

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Comments 26 comments

  • OK, great!, now:

    • offer different sizes of PCB breadboards
    • add plastic boxes with mounting holes so I can screw the breadboard into a box and have a semi-finished project!
  • A good addition to this board would be two solderable jumpers to connect the VCCs together and the grounds together

  • I like the idea, but I’d like to see other sizes as well. I have a circuit on a “mini” breadboard that has problems with things “shaking loose” and this could solve that problem, but there’s not enough room for this size (and before someone jumps on me, I’m too lazy to cut the board).

  • The ultimate solderable bread board would have a ceramic base with tracks embedded into the ceramic of a material that could be used to deposit a layer of gold, then you could solder and unsolder over and over without tracks lifting off :)

  • I would like to see various sizes of FR-4 pad per hole, double sided with feed through.

  • Cutting the board along the middle rail (hotdog style) wouldn’t render it functionless, hopefully?

    • Nope. Checking the Eagle file (it’s in the Github repo - usually product pages link straight to the files), there’s nothing between the ‘e’ and ‘f’ columns.. on any layer. Cut/saw away :)

    1. Secure over breadboard.
    2. Prototype.
    3. Glue everything in place, There’s no such thing as overkill.
    4. Solder.
    5. ????????
    6. Profit.
  • Received a couple of boards - I do like them. Would like to see a longer board of this type. The one complaint - the holes on the outer power strips are not aligned with the inner holes. A bank of resistors for pulling lines high or low have to be angled. Many times I use a DIP switch bank and will not work on this board.

    • The hole pattern is actually copied directly from the small solderless boards - the holes on the power rails are indeed halfway between the interior holes. I was as surprised as you are about that.

      I will see what can be done about a larger board. The power rails on the larger solderless boards do line up with the interior grid.

      • Well, I’ll think I’ll cross this off of my wish lists then. While I agree a lot of breadboards do not have the power rails lining up with the data pins, there are a few that do for at least a few pins. I find having at least a few pins line up for using DIP switches is useful.

        In terms of perf boards, the Adafruit perma-proto quarter/half/full/mint-tin sized boards have all of the power rail pins separated by multiples of 0.1" spacing so that you could easily use larger DIP switch banks or other things. It would be nice if the Adafruit boards didn’t have the gap between the power rails and the data pins, so that you could solder in 3 hole male/female headers to plug in servos or sensors with the normal 0.1" spacing.

        Similarly, the BusBoard Prototype Systems SB400 have one rail that is next to the data pins (unfortunately, the other two sets of power rails on each side are not a multiple of 0.1", but at least for the ground rail, you could use DIP switches). For larger boards, the BusBoard Prototype Systems BR1 does have all of the power rails multiple of 0.1" inches (and the BR1 has 3 power rails, to allow for using external power or mixed voltage systems).

  • It would be nice if this had the middle two columns of holes added (the ones that are in the space between the left and right half of the breadboard). I often need adapters from double-row header pins (for connecting to IDC cables) to breadboard spacing. I understand why they don’t put it on plastic breadboards, but I don’t see a reason why it would be detrimental on one like this. A line of silkscreen down the middle should be enough to visually indicate where the middle is.

    • Ditto to what Doug says. The Radio Shack boards 276-150 and 276-168 put 2 power rows down the center where they should be to minimize power and ground inductance (wire length), and to optimize and simplify bypassing. They have provisions for single row headers on all sides, or dual rows if you cut traces between rows. They are cheaper and usually available locally. The larger RS board has 3 rows of ICs. Having it wider, not longer, fits better in most rectangular enclosures. I think Radio shack got it right and you guys missed the mark so I’ll continue buying their boards. This is also why I usually go straight to solder breadboard and rarely use solderless breadboads. If I need to plug in components, even R’s and C’s, I use nice machine-contact IC sockets or socket pins. Then when I’m done, I have something solid and permanent, not just to take apart. My projects are at www.djerickson.com

  • Two questions: 1. Will this board reliably hold the components on its own, like a normal breadboard would do, or are the holes too big for that? 2. Are the holes plated through, or only on the surface?

    • 1). No it won’t. this PCB is designed to look like a small breadboard. Except more permanent. For when you made that perfect prototype on a breadboard and want to make it a permanent. 2) Considering the PCB design im pretty sure every hole is fully conductive from side to side. rare to see production boards like these that arent.

  • Can you put this on top of your breadboard and still use the breadboard? It would be nice if you could just lift the PCB off the breadboard when your circuit works, but the board might be too thick for the components to make good connections with the breadboard?

    • The fit of this board over a breadboard depends on the breadboard. They’re not all created equal, and they aren’t made to the tightest of mechanical tolerances. This board fits our 30 row (half size) breadboards, such as PRT-09567 or PRT-12002. The holes on the power rails on those boards are .050" off from alignment with the holes on the center grid, which is matched by this board. The full size boards (like PRT-00112) have the rail holes aligned with the center grid, so this board isn’t a fit.

    • It depends on the components. The board is 1/16" thick; parts with long leads (resistors, LEDs) will be fine, but parts with short pins like tactile switches or DIP ICs may have issues. You can always make sure it works on the bare breadboard and (carefully) transfer it later…

      • It would be nice if there was a thin version of this that would reliably work with DIP ICs… If that’s even possible.

  • Are there solder pads on both sides of this board?

    • Yes, the holes are standard plated-through-holes. Copper on both sides of the board, as well as inside the holes.

    • Well, the font and back product pics definitely have plated holes on both sides, you might want to have checked those first…

  • I think it would be great to just sell the PCB board. Once you have some breadboards you might not need another.


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