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Description: Do you need "Mega" power in a "Mini" package? We can do that! We're continuing our Pro series of Arduino-compatible microcontrollers with the addition of the Mega Pro Mini. This is a 3.3V microcontroller running a version of the stk500v2 bootloader at 8MHz. In order to shrink the Mega Pro down to its minimum footprint, we've condensed the board layout, removed the barrel jack footprint and replaced the traditional Arduino-style headers with compact vertical JST connectors.

The Pro series is meant for users that understand the limitations of system voltage (3.3V), lack of connectors, and USB off board. This board connects directly to the FTDI Basic Breakout board and supports auto-reset.

Note: If you are using Arduino, modifications were made to the bootloader to support the 3.3V system, you will need to download and install a new board definition so that the Mega Pro can be programmed in the Arduino environment. The .zip archive below contains all of the files that you'll need including a "readme" file with simple instructions for how to install them. OR you can use Wiring and not worry about this since the board is officially supported.

Not sure which Arduino or Arduino-compatible board is right for you? Check out our Arduino Buying Guide!

Features:

  • ATmega2560 running at 8MHz external resonator
  • Low-voltage board needs no interfacing circuitry to popular 3.3V devices and modules (GPS, Accelerometers, sensors, etc)
  • USB connection off board
  • 3.3V regulator
  • Over current protected
  • Reverse polarity protected
  • Resettable fuse prevents damage to board in case of short

Documents:

Comments 34 comments

  • Make a 5V/16mhz version of this sucker, and I’ll buy a bunch.

  • IS there a mating connector for the port pins that could be used on a shield? By this I mean a surface-mount connector that would go on a shield board and plug into his board. I did some research on JST’s web site but cannot seem to find one.

  • Does anybody know of a PCB-mounted female component that mates with these male JST-SH headers?

  • this looks great, way to shrink down the footprint

  • Ordered two back on 6/21 and can only rarely get them to load with Arduino 0022 or Arduino 1.0. Sparkfun tech support has same issue, but no resolution yet, and say they may just give up and obsolete the board. I am a great Sparkfun customer, and I committed to a project that needs this board; super bummed!. Any ideas out there? Really appreciate any help.

    • I don’t know if you’ve found a solution yet, but I also had the same problem when using the Sparkfun FTDI breakout. The way I got mine to work was to hold down the reset button right after clicking the upload button in the Arduino IDE, then releasing the button right before the IDE said “uploading.” Don’t know if you’ve tried that yet, but just a suggestion.

  • Anyone know the maximum voltage output of this board? I have a 5V motor driver. Not sure how to connect this to that…

  • anyone know the dimensions of this board?

    • Check out the Eagle files listed above. You can take the measurements of the board and also find the exact measurements of the mounting holes.

  • You guys planning to restock these? or get upgraded version? this is awesome concept, and I’d love to get my hands on one, but stock of 1 (at time of writing) makes me a bit nervous. Thanks.

  • If you get one of these, as I did, I suggest you put a drop or two of epoxy on the back side of the FTDI pins for programming (i.e. the 6 gold pins with .100" spacing).

    One little tug of your programming adapter, and that connector comes right off the board as it is only surface mount soldered and there is no strong mechanical connection to hold it on.

    This happened three times before I finally resoldered it and put the epoxy on it. Sparkfun: this should really be a through-hole connector, or glued on with epoxy, post soldering!

    • Very sorry about the problems you’ve had. It sounds like you received a poorly-attached part, please feel free to contact customer service if you find such problems in the future. We use and abuse our parts with this style of connector on a daily basis and rarely have this problem. Ensure that your FTDI/cable is not stressing the connector at a right angle, and as you say two drops of epoxy on the nubs on the back side of the board is good insurance.

      • PS: putting epoxy on the back of the board is not going to help- there’s only a few mm of the connector there. It has to go near the SMT pads.

        • I respectfully disagree; if you consider the pads the pivot-point that the connector is rotating against (stressing and breaking the solder connections in the process), firmly attaching the plastic block holding the pins to the board will help resist this rotation. If you apply epoxy to the two indexing pins on the back of the board, it will wick into the gap between the pins and holes, hopefully providing a better connection.

          But the earlier point stands; if you’re not abnormally stressing this connector and it’s breaking, contact our customer service department and we’ll help you out.

      • Thanks for your reply.

        I tend to think it is a mechanical design problem rather than a manufacturing error, as it came off too easily both times. All that is holding the current connector on there is six small smt solder pads, and two black dots of plastic (about 1mm in diameter) on the bottom of it. Give it a yank, and it comes off, taking the traces with it.

        There are lots of epozy-type SMT adhesives around, why don’t you investigate them? The mechanical reliability of this connector doesn’t match the usual Sparkfun quality.

  • Could you guys update the Pinout Reference to reflect the cables currently sold?

  • If you actually read the datasheet (Figure 31-3. Maximum Frequency vs. VCC, ATmega640/ATmega1280/ATmega1281) , these atmegas are actually rated for something like 12Mhz at 3.3v. I think because all the baud calculations have been done for 8mhz, people are just lazy.

    John Luciani did a bootloader for the atmega328 that supports 12mhz…. just sayin'

    • There are other considerations besides laziness; the clock math does work out very nicely for a number of timing applications besides serial, the slower you clock a microprocessor the less power it consumes (unused cycles beyond what your code requires are basically waste heat), you’re that much further within the performance margins, etc.

  • Good night! This board should be powered by 3,7V LiPo battery? Thanks.

  • I can’t quite see well enough, but is the JST looking connector on the left side the same size and type as the connectors you offer on your LiPro batts?

  • Hi Guys.. Has anyone actually tried to upload a bootloader to this micro from within arduino IDE.. Because I tried but I am getting the following error:

    ***failed; avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x0000 0xcf != 0x0f avrdude: verification error; content mismatch

  • My first thought: those are goinna be some interesting shield designs :)

  • I prefer something like this for the mini it’s 5V not 3.3V though. Mega Cube

  • Is it possible to boost the speed of the processor up to 16MHz?

  • I always get so exited when I see connectors that look like SATA ones… but they never are… :-(

  • You should put the JST mini cable link into the description. http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10853

  • Cool small board! But why $20 more than the Mega Pro 3.3V? Are those JST headers very expensive?


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