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Description: It's powerful, it's portable, it's Pro! We're continuing our Pro series of Arduino-compatible micro-controllers with the addition of the Mega Pro. This is a 5V microcontroller running a version of the stk500v2 bootloader at 16MHz. Just like the other Pro-series boards this board is built with all SMD components and comes with no headers populated in order to minimize the cost and the board profile. Of course this board has the same pin-configuration as the Arduino Mega, so it is dimensionally shield compatible.

The Pro series is meant for users that understand the limitations of system voltage (5V), lack of connectors, and USB off board. This board connects directly to the FTDI Basic Breakout board and supports auto-reset and the DC power jack footprint is available, but not populated.

Note: When using this board in the Arduino IDE, select 'mega2560'. This board also works with the Wiring IDE. You will need to download the board definition files in the documents section below. 

Not sure which Arduino or Arduino-compatible board is right for you? Check out our Arduino Buying Guide!

Features:

  • ATmega2560 running at 16MHz external resonator
  • USB connection off board
  • 5V regulator, 200mA continuous (500mA peak)
  • Over current protected
  • Reverse polarity protected
  • DC input 5V up to 12V
  • Resettable fuse prevents damage to board in case of short
  • Power select switch acts as on/off switch

Documents:

Comments 57 comments

  • Hy Guys, I hope that will be helpfull for someone. On grabcad.com I have posted a 3d sketch model (stp format) of this board. it’s exported from eagle schema. If ask it’s available also in Alibre format

    http://grabcad.com/library/sparkfun-mega-pro

  • I wish there were mounting holes for a 3.3V regulator..

  • Can these run directly on a LiPo battery? Or do we need and external booster circuit?

  • When I power the Mega Pro 5V (DEV-11007) through the Ethernet shield with Power of Ethernet (PoE) (DEV-11230), the Mega Pro comes up OK for a few seconds, then the power LED on the Mega Pro starts flashing, like it’s rebooting repeatedly. (see also similar topic below). Can the Mega Pro be powered by PoE?

  • I would like to replace the 16mhz crystal/resonator with a 14.7456mhz crystal/resonator. Do you sell one that will work? Or a part number?

  • hi every one ,i have some questions ; which bootloader hex is using for this board and may we use Ftdi basic ? thanks.

  • I must have missed the memo, but what is the justification for the funky (.15") spacing for group of pins (8-13, GND, AREF)? All the other groups align with my standard .1" breadboard?

  • Hi there,

    I pretty much have the same problem than ahmad a year ago, except that I’m not even able to make it work by hitting the reset button. Absolutely no problem using the Arduino Mega, but no way with the sparkfun mega pro 5V. Any clue? I didn’t find the answer at ahmad’s question. I’m using an 3,3V FTDI cable (which actually provides 5V for power), Arduino 1.0.4, selected board is Arduino Mega 2560 or Mega ADK.

    Actually, after a couple more testing, I can say that the reset at the beginning of the bootloading is there and resetting the uC. So it is not the same problem than Ahmad. Still doing:

    avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout … avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer

    Thanks for your help!

    • There was a recent batch error with the wrong crystal populated. Please contact techsupport@sparkfun.com with your order number and TS can help you with a replacement.

    • I spent almost 8 hours debugging Saturday, and I determined that my Mega Pro 5V (just arrived Wednesday) has a 8MHz clock. If you have an AVR programmer, you can use Arduino’s “upload via programmer” option to load the basic blink program, and the resulting LED blink will be 2 seconds on 2 seconds off, instead of 1 and 1.

      I loaded the Mega Pro 3.3V bootloader onto mine (which is normally 8MHz), and have been able to program and use the board, though I did actually need the 16MHz for my project. I have an email in to tech support, but you may want to email them too.

      • There was a recent batch error with the wrong crystal populated. Please contact techsupport@sparkfun.com with your order number and TS can help you with a replacement.

      • You get it!

        It definetely oscillate to 8MHz! So I guess I’ll email them too. Thanks for your answer. I also need the 16Mhz. Thanks for your help!

        • There was a recent batch error with the wrong crystal populated. Please contact techsupport@sparkfun.com with your order number and TS can help you with a replacement.

  • What is the power connector type? It looks like a JST.

  • Problem programming the Mega Pro 5V I have a Mega Pro 5V and an ARDUINO USB/SERIAL LIGHT connected to a computer running Windows XP. I try uploading the simple BLINK program, no luck. I tried different versions of the Arduino revs, all gave same result: avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): can’t communicate with the device: resp=0x1 etc … Any hints?

  • Any idea when these will be in stock?

  • Please can you confirm me if this board have only 32Kb of flash mem. I’m asking because arduino Mega 2560 have 256Kb.

    thanks

  • I will be providing power to my Sparkfun Mega Pro (5V) using a variable voltage regulator, which I can set to any voltage. An official Arduino Mega has a recommended Input Voltage of 7-12v (although its limits are 6-20V). What is the optimum RECOMMENDED voltage for the Sparkfun Mega Pro (5V)? In other words, what would be the best possible value to set my variable voltage regulator to?

    • If you are feeding power through the barrel jack connector, you should use something in the range of 7-12V. You might get away with slightly less than 7V, depending on your current draw. 12V is the absolute max, but you might want to go less, also depending on your current draw.

      This information is based on the specs of the MIC5219 voltage regulator. The datasheet will give you all of this info and more.

  • Can someone point me to where I can find the right board files for this… The ones on this page are for the 3v3 8mHz and do not work. :/

    • The eagle files in the link above are correct. The only difference between the 3.3V and 5V Mega Pros is the voltage regulator.

      • The board definition files are wrong. You can’t use the 3v3/8mHz board definitions with a 5v/16mHz board. From what I understand, the normal mega 2560 board selection is the correct one. Linking those files is very misleading.

        • Oh, you are talking about the board definition files, I thought you meant PCB files. Correct, those need to be taken down. For this board, just select the mega 2560, like you said. Thanks for pointing that out!

  • I have built a dozen or so robots using the official Arduino mega board. More and more, I prefer soldering rather than headers and pins (which can fall out, stick up too far, etc.). I couldn’t find an official Arduino mega without headers, so I thought I would try the Sparkfun Arduino Mega Pro 5V. So far, I really love the Mega Pro, but one thing is causing me a problem. I always use “12-volt” 3 cell LIPO batteries, which are nominally 11.1v. The product description of the Mega Pro says 5V - 12V. Generally when a spec says “12V” it means you can connect a “12-volt” battery to it. But of course, 12-volt batteries aren’t exactly 12-volts all the time. When they are fully charged they are higher than 12 volts. Here is the problem: When I connect a “12-volt” LIPO battery to my project, it comes up OK for a few seconds, then the power LED on the Mega Pro starts flashing, like it’s rebooting repeatedly. When I try a 7.4V 2 Cell LIPO, it comes on fine and stays OK. Can the Mega Pro handle a 12-volt 3-cell LIPO battery like the official Arduino Mega?

    • I see the same think happening (OK at first, then after a couple of seconds it starts rebooting) with my Mega Pro 5V, when I a) connect a 9V or 12V battery to it or b) when I connect an ethernet shield with Power of Ethernet (PoE) (DEV-11230) and feed it through a PoE capable switch.

    • Can the Mega Pro handle a 12-volt 3-cell LIPO battery like the official Arduino Mega?

      “like the Arduino Mega?” No, because the Arduino Mega uses a different/bigger voltage regulator. But depending on your load, you should be good with up to 12V on the Mega Pro. Check out the MIC5219 voltage regulator datasheet.

      What it sounds like, is that the vreg is going into thermal shutdown. Is it warm to the touch? How much current are you drawing at 12V? Remember the vreg has some thermal resistance when you drop 12V to 3.3V (now multiply that difference by your current draw and you get power dissipated by the regulator and this small package can only dissipate so much). Check out page 9 of the datasheet.

  • The link to board definitions files is broken?????…. I need the board definition files?…. Can i use the Arduino IDE???… HOW?… Thanks for your help. Best Regards

  • I need 3.3Volts off the pro also for a peripheral display. The Schematic shows the 3.3V pulled to VCC at 5 ??? - Most Megas at 5V have both 5 and 3.3. Can you just put a Voltage divider at the one of the vcc pins ?

  • Any chance of Mega Pro Mini? Yeah, I know it sounds odd, but I would really like the added power of the Mega, but with a much smaller footprint.

    NEVERMIND, I just found the Mega Pro Mini.

  • Do I need to download any board definition files for Arduino? The links to the Board definition files to his page point to the page itself. I tried using Arduino Mega 2560 from the Board menu, but this way the extra IO pins compared to an ordinary Arduino didn’t work.

    Thanks!

    • Do I need to download any board definition files for Arduino?

      No. You can select the Arduino Mega 2560. This board is identical, pin wise, to the official Arduino Mega.

      You could use the Wiring definitions as well, but there is no need. The links above are fixed.

  • where does one acquire the headers for this beast?

  • I really wish the “related products” had the battery that connects to that battery header. :)

  • Out of curiosity what is the point of the small solder jumper on the top of the board? From what I can see a via comes up goes through the solder jumper and then a second via goes right back down to the other side. Is there a situation where you would want to desolder that pad?

  • I just received one of these today and I realized that the 5V and the 3.3V pins are connected. This board may not work with shields that depend on the Arduino’s 3.3V regulator.

  • The 3.3V version has new board definitions, are there new ones for this 5V version as well? If so can you please attach? I’m unable to upload anything to this board using any existing board defs in the Arduino IDE.

    Thanks!

    • problem was not the board definition (thanks SF support). It is an issue with avrdude that lots are experiencing

      i tried Arduino IDE 022, 023, 1.0, and Wiring… nothing worked. Tried installing various drivers… no luck. Tried other boards like an Arduino Pro 5V and a regular Mega 2560 which worked fine… sad face.

      Only thing that worked? hitting reset as soon as i see “Binary sketch size:” pop up on the IDE. as much as a fun new game this is, would be great to have a permanent fix. :)

  • I do NOT understand the limitations of system voltage (5V). Can you point me to a link on your website that will clue me in?

    • The two comments above don’t really satisfy my curiosity nor do they seem to confirm (or deny) what little I know about Arduinos.

      This board is different from the regular Mega in that it doesn’t have a 3.3v pin right? (Not sure if photo has been updated to the 5V, although I see the 5v marked.)

      Correct me if I’m wrong but with the Mega you can connect 5v and 3.3v sensors and devices (without adding any hardware) whereas with this one, you’re limited to 5v sensors only (3.3v only for the 3.3v version.)

      As an example, I have an Uno and I run a Venus GPS via the 3.3v pin. I could do the same with a Mega, but I don’t think I can do it with this unless I convert 5v to 3.3v with resistors or whatever.

      This article is the closest I could find to covering the topic: http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/65

      @Member #250174 It sounds like you probably want a Mega for a few bucks less…as would we all. Unless you already have an FTDI break out board you wouldn’t be saving money, and you’d be make a lot more work for yourself most likely - don’t forget the headers and soldering stuff ;)

      • If you have a 3.3v that is the system voltage - a digital input at 3.3v will read high, and of course 0v will read low. The I2c and all of it’s output is at 3.3v - and if you have sensors that run at 3.3v (a lot of delicate ones do!) then you can plug them straight in, and they’ll be fine. On the other hand, the 5v version runs at 5v, so for it HIGH means 5v, not 3.3v. So if you plug your 3.3v sensors straight into a 5v arduino, you’re likely to toast them and make the magic blue smoke come out. The advantages of the 3.3v are that it uses less power and can talk directly to 3.3v sensors, and the advantage of the 5v is it has a faster clock frequency, an can talk straight to a 5v sensor.

        I hope that helps…!

    • Nice work Mike! You got to this as I was writing this comment and changing the regulator specs (see above). :)

      unknown member: I hope one of us answered your question.

    • This is a 5V board (as opposed to the 3.3V version) thus it is functionally equivalent to the full Arduino Mega. However, it does not come with a USB header, and thus requires a 5V FTDI board or cable in order to program it.

  • Is the note about the “3.3V system” obsolete since this is a 5V/16MHz arduino? It might be a remnant from the 3.3V release.

  • I am not good at determining if things use crystal or ceramic oscillators from schematics. Please say it’s a crystal? There’s no reason, other than a few cents I would gladly pay, for this to have a crystal. There’s tons of room on the board for a crystal, I think?

    EDIT: Pics are for 3.3V version, btw. As a customer, I can assure you seeing differences between description and pics can cause a little worrying :)

    • It’s a ceramic resonator (application note). We’ve found these to be highly accurate, however if you need a different clock source you could always hack the board.

      Good eyes on the photo; we currently have a backlog of photo requests and are using the 3.3V photo temporarily so as not to hold up the product release.

  • The schematic link is for a 3.3v version.

    • This was noted 8 months ago and still hasn’t been corrected???? lazzzzzzzzyyyy

      • Not lazy - efficient! =)

      • The schematic is correct. It’s the exact same as the 3.3V version except using a different regulator, thus the notes on the schematic under the regulator. Unless I am missing something?


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