Mega Pro 5V

It's powerful, it's portable, it's Pro! We're continuing our Pro series of Arduino-compatible micro-controllers with the addition of the Mega Pro. This is a 5V microcontroller running a version of the stk500v2 bootloader at 16MHz. Just like the other Pro-series boards this board is built with all SMD components and comes with no headers populated in order to minimize the cost and the board profile. Of course this board has the same pin-configuration as the Arduino Mega, so it is dimensionally shield compatible.

The Pro series is meant for users that understand the limitations of system voltage (5V), lack of connectors, and USB off board. This board connects directly to the FTDI Basic Breakout board and supports auto-reset and the DC power jack footprint is available, but not populated.

Note: When using this board in the Arduino IDE, select 'mega2560'. This board also works with the Wiring IDE. You will need to download the board definition files in the documents section below.

Not sure which Arduino or Arduino-compatible board is right for you? Check out our Arduino Buying Guide!

  • ATmega2560 running at 16MHz external resonator
  • USB connection off board
  • 5V regulator, 200mA continuous (500mA peak)
  • Over current protected
  • Reverse polarity protected
  • DC input 5V up to 12V
  • Resettable fuse prevents damage to board in case of short
  • Power select switch acts as on/off switch

Mega Pro 5V Product Help and Resources

Core Skill: Soldering

This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.

2 Soldering

Skill Level: Rookie - The number of pins increases, and you will have to determine polarity of components and some of the components might be a bit trickier or close together. You might need solder wick or flux.
See all skill levels

Core Skill: Programming

If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.

3 Programming

Skill Level: Competent - The toolchain for programming is a bit more complex and will examples may not be explicitly provided for you. You will be required to have a fundamental knowledge of programming and be required to provide your own code. You may need to modify existing libraries or code to work with your specific hardware. Sensor and hardware interfaces will be SPI or I2C.
See all skill levels

Core Skill: Electrical Prototyping

If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.

3 Electrical Prototyping

Skill Level: Competent - You will be required to reference a datasheet or schematic to know how to use a component. Your knowledge of a datasheet will only require basic features like power requirements, pinouts, or communications type. Also, you may need a power supply that?s greater than 12V or more than 1A worth of current.
See all skill levels


Looking for answers to technical questions?

We welcome your comments and suggestions below. However, if you are looking for solutions to technical questions please see our Technical Assistance page.

  • Member #138680 / about 12 years ago / 5

    Hy Guys, I hope that will be helpfull for someone. On I have posted a 3d sketch model (stp format) of this board. it's exported from eagle schema. If ask it's available also in Alibre format

  • Member #337433 / about 11 years ago / 2

    hi every one ,i have some questions ; which bootloader hex is using for this board and may we use Ftdi basic ? thanks.

  • MaxRathbone / about 12 years ago / 2

    I wish there were mounting holes for a 3.3V regulator..

  • Eddie90 / about 9 years ago / 1

    Please Advice,

    How do I burn the bootloader into these boards? Is there a tutorial out there? I know they come with it preloaded but I would like to learn how to do this.

    I've only done it with Arduino UNOs using another working UNO

    Is it the same process??

    • M-Short / about 9 years ago / 1

      Should be the exact same process, just remember to use the correct bootloader file and if you are not using the ISP header for some reason make sure you use the correct pins for SPI.

  • stevenvh17 / about 9 years ago / 1

    What's the point of this? It's only a dollar cheaper than the Arduino Mega 2560, yet lacks the headers (which you'll want anyway) and the USB connectivity. Just wondering: why would I choose this board over the Mega 2560?

  • scharkalvin / about 9 years ago / 1

    Considering what is missing from this board compared with the arduino mega, and the fact that it is made by Sparkfun it SHOULD be cheaper! Consider the Redboard vs the Uno, that's the price ratio I'd have in mind, then deduct the fact that it has NO headers or USB connection or external power connection.

  • Member #430220 / about 10 years ago / 1

    Has anyone experienced a problem with input pins getting erroneously pulled down by adjacent pins that are pulled low? I've even installed pull-up resistors and still have the problem on 4 out of 8 processors. In my case, the processors are usually running for about an hour before the failure occurs.

  • EvanAlmighty / about 10 years ago / 1

    Can these run directly on a LiPo battery? Or do we need and external booster circuit?

  • Member #439183 / about 10 years ago / 1

    When I power the Mega Pro 5V (DEV-11007) through the Ethernet shield with Power of Ethernet (PoE) (DEV-11230), the Mega Pro comes up OK for a few seconds, then the power LED on the Mega Pro starts flashing, like it’s rebooting repeatedly. (see also similar topic below). Can the Mega Pro be powered by PoE?

  • Member #5073 / about 11 years ago / 1

    I would like to replace the 16mhz crystal/resonator with a 14.7456mhz crystal/resonator. Do you sell one that will work? Or a part number?

  • Member #230104 / about 11 years ago / 1

    I must have missed the memo, but what is the justification for the funky (.15") spacing for group of pins (8-13, GND, AREF)? All the other groups align with my standard .1" breadboard?

    • stevenvh17 / about 9 years ago / 1

      Like Mike says it was an error in the layout of the first Arduino board. It's also my pet peeve about Arduino. To err is human, but this should have been corrected before going in production, deadline or not. At that moment there were no shields yet, so breadboards would have been the only things to fit on it, and, well, they wouldn't fit! How this error wasn't corrected at the time is beyond me.

    • MikeGrusin / about 11 years ago / 1

      That was an error on the the very first Arduino board that has remained in place ever since because the shield footprint relies on it. This adapter may help.

  • Member #454226 / about 11 years ago * / 1

    Hi there,

    I pretty much have the same problem than ahmad a year ago, except that I'm not even able to make it work by hitting the reset button. Absolutely no problem using the Arduino Mega, but no way with the sparkfun mega pro 5V. Any clue? I didn't find the answer at ahmad's question. I'm using an 3,3V FTDI cable (which actually provides 5V for power), Arduino 1.0.4, selected board is Arduino Mega 2560 or Mega ADK.

    Actually, after a couple more testing, I can say that the reset at the beginning of the bootloading is there and resetting the uC. So it is not the same problem than Ahmad. Still doing:

    avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout ... avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer

    Thanks for your help!

    • There was a recent batch error with the wrong crystal populated. Please contact with your order number and TS can help you with a replacement.

    • engunneer / about 11 years ago / 1

      I spent almost 8 hours debugging Saturday, and I determined that my Mega Pro 5V (just arrived Wednesday) has a 8MHz clock. If you have an AVR programmer, you can use Arduino's "upload via programmer" option to load the basic blink program, and the resulting LED blink will be 2 seconds on 2 seconds off, instead of 1 and 1.

      I loaded the Mega Pro 3.3V bootloader onto mine (which is normally 8MHz), and have been able to program and use the board, though I did actually need the 16MHz for my project. I have an email in to tech support, but you may want to email them too.

      • There was a recent batch error with the wrong crystal populated. Please contact with your order number and TS can help you with a replacement.

      • Member #454226 / about 11 years ago / 1

        You get it!

        It definetely oscillate to 8MHz! So I guess I'll email them too. Thanks for your answer. I also need the 16Mhz. Thanks for your help!

        • There was a recent batch error with the wrong crystal populated. Please contact with your order number and TS can help you with a replacement.

  • What is the power connector type? It looks like a JST.

  • Member #297412 / about 11 years ago / 1

    Problem programming the Mega Pro 5V I have a Mega Pro 5V and an ARDUINO USB/SERIAL LIGHT connected to a computer running Windows XP. I try uploading the simple BLINK program, no luck. I tried different versions of the Arduino revs, all gave same result: avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): can't communicate with the device: resp=0x1 etc ... Any hints?

  • Carlan / about 12 years ago / 1

    Any idea when these will be in stock?

  • Member #138680 / about 12 years ago / 1

    Please can you confirm me if this board have only 32Kb of flash mem. I'm asking because arduino Mega 2560 have 256Kb.


  • Robert451 / about 12 years ago / 1

    I will be providing power to my Sparkfun Mega Pro (5V) using a variable voltage regulator, which I can set to any voltage. An official Arduino Mega has a recommended Input Voltage of 7-12v (although its limits are 6-20V). What is the optimum RECOMMENDED voltage for the Sparkfun Mega Pro (5V)? In other words, what would be the best possible value to set my variable voltage regulator to?

    • If you are feeding power through the barrel jack connector, you should use something in the range of 7-12V. You might get away with slightly less than 7V, depending on your current draw. 12V is the absolute max, but you might want to go less, also depending on your current draw.

      This information is based on the specs of the MIC5219 voltage regulator. The datasheet will give you all of this info and more.

  • Robdrech / about 12 years ago / 1

    Can someone point me to where I can find the right board files for this... The ones on this page are for the 3v3 8mHz and do not work. :/

    • The eagle files in the link above are correct. The only difference between the 3.3V and 5V Mega Pros is the voltage regulator.

      • Robdrech / about 12 years ago / 1

        The board definition files are wrong. You can't use the 3v3/8mHz board definitions with a 5v/16mHz board. From what I understand, the normal mega 2560 board selection is the correct one. Linking those files is very misleading.

        • Oh, you are talking about the board definition files, I thought you meant PCB files. Correct, those need to be taken down. For this board, just select the mega 2560, like you said. Thanks for pointing that out!

  • Robert451 / about 12 years ago / 1

    I have built a dozen or so robots using the official Arduino mega board. More and more, I prefer soldering rather than headers and pins (which can fall out, stick up too far, etc.). I couldn't find an official Arduino mega without headers, so I thought I would try the Sparkfun Arduino Mega Pro 5V. So far, I really love the Mega Pro, but one thing is causing me a problem. I always use "12-volt" 3 cell LIPO batteries, which are nominally 11.1v. The product description of the Mega Pro says 5V - 12V. Generally when a spec says "12V" it means you can connect a "12-volt" battery to it. But of course, 12-volt batteries aren't exactly 12-volts all the time. When they are fully charged they are higher than 12 volts. Here is the problem: When I connect a "12-volt" LIPO battery to my project, it comes up OK for a few seconds, then the power LED on the Mega Pro starts flashing, like it's rebooting repeatedly. When I try a 7.4V 2 Cell LIPO, it comes on fine and stays OK. Can the Mega Pro handle a 12-volt 3-cell LIPO battery like the official Arduino Mega?

    • Member #518732 / about 10 years ago * / 1

      I see the same think happening (OK at first, then after a couple of seconds it starts rebooting) with my Mega Pro 5V, when I a) connect a 9V or 12V battery to it or b) when I connect an ethernet shield with Power of Ethernet (PoE) (DEV-11230) and feed it through a PoE capable switch.

      • Member #518732 / about 10 years ago * / 1

        on b) I only get 1 our of 5 Mega Pro's to work (the other 4 go into rebooting mode)

    • Can the Mega Pro handle a 12-volt 3-cell LIPO battery like the official Arduino Mega?

      "like the Arduino Mega?" No, because the Arduino Mega uses a different/bigger voltage regulator. But depending on your load, you should be good with up to 12V on the Mega Pro. Check out the MIC5219 voltage regulator datasheet.

      What it sounds like, is that the vreg is going into thermal shutdown. Is it warm to the touch? How much current are you drawing at 12V? Remember the vreg has some thermal resistance when you drop 12V to 3.3V (now multiply that difference by your current draw and you get power dissipated by the regulator and this small package can only dissipate so much). Check out page 9 of the datasheet.

  • The link to board definitions files is broken?????.... I need the board definition files?.... Can i use the Arduino IDE???... HOW?... Thanks for your help. Best Regards

  • Member #132581 / about 12 years ago / 1

    I need 3.3Volts off the pro also for a peripheral display. The Schematic shows the 3.3V pulled to VCC at 5 ??? - Most Megas at 5V have both 5 and 3.3. Can you just put a Voltage divider at the one of the vcc pins ?

  • Ted M / about 12 years ago * / 1

    Any chance of Mega Pro Mini? Yeah, I know it sounds odd, but I would really like the added power of the Mega, but with a much smaller footprint.

    NEVERMIND, I just found the Mega Pro Mini.

  • Sveto123 / about 12 years ago / 1

    Do I need to download any board definition files for Arduino? The links to the Board definition files to his page point to the page itself. I tried using Arduino Mega 2560 from the Board menu, but this way the extra IO pins compared to an ordinary Arduino didn't work.


    • Do I need to download any board definition files for Arduino?

      No. You can select the Arduino Mega 2560. This board is identical, pin wise, to the official Arduino Mega.

      You could use the Wiring definitions as well, but there is no need. The links above are fixed.

      • Sveto123 / about 12 years ago / 1

        Thanks for the reply! It turned out that I had swapped some pins in my code so I was thinking they do not work.

  • Mattmar96 / about 12 years ago / 1

    where does one acquire the headers for this beast?

  • Andrew KE8P / about 12 years ago / 1

    I really wish the "related products" had the battery that connects to that battery header. :)

  • Pourcirm / about 12 years ago / 1

    Out of curiosity what is the point of the small solder jumper on the top of the board? From what I can see a via comes up goes through the solder jumper and then a second via goes right back down to the other side. Is there a situation where you would want to desolder that pad?

  • lingomaniac88 / about 12 years ago / 1

    I just received one of these today and I realized that the 5V and the 3.3V pins are connected. This board may not work with shields that depend on the Arduino's 3.3V regulator.

  • ahmad / about 12 years ago / 1

    The 3.3V version has new board definitions, are there new ones for this 5V version as well? If so can you please attach? I'm unable to upload anything to this board using any existing board defs in the Arduino IDE.


    • ahmad / about 12 years ago / 1

      problem was not the board definition (thanks SF support). It is an issue with avrdude that lots are experiencing

      i tried Arduino IDE 022, 023, 1.0, and Wiring... nothing worked. Tried installing various drivers... no luck. Tried other boards like an Arduino Pro 5V and a regular Mega 2560 which worked fine... sad face.

      Only thing that worked? hitting reset as soon as i see "Binary sketch size:" pop up on the IDE. as much as a fun new game this is, would be great to have a permanent fix. :)

  • NN / about 13 years ago / 1

    I do NOT understand the limitations of system voltage (5V). Can you point me to a link on your website that will clue me in?

    • sudopeople / about 12 years ago / 1

      The two comments above don't really satisfy my curiosity nor do they seem to confirm (or deny) what little I know about Arduinos.

      This board is different from the regular Mega in that it doesn't have a 3.3v pin right? (Not sure if photo has been updated to the 5V, although I see the 5v marked.)

      Correct me if I'm wrong but with the Mega you can connect 5v and 3.3v sensors and devices (without adding any hardware) whereas with this one, you're limited to 5v sensors only (3.3v only for the 3.3v version.)

      As an example, I have an Uno and I run a Venus GPS via the 3.3v pin. I could do the same with a Mega, but I don't think I can do it with this unless I convert 5v to 3.3v with resistors or whatever.

      This article is the closest I could find to covering the topic:

      @Member #250174 It sounds like you probably want a Mega for a few bucks would we all. Unless you already have an FTDI break out board you wouldn't be saving money, and you'd be make a lot more work for yourself most likely - don't forget the headers and soldering stuff ;)

      • If you have a 3.3v that is the system voltage - a digital input at 3.3v will read high, and of course 0v will read low. The I2c and all of it's output is at 3.3v - and if you have sensors that run at 3.3v (a lot of delicate ones do!) then you can plug them straight in, and they'll be fine. On the other hand, the 5v version runs at 5v, so for it HIGH means 5v, not 3.3v. So if you plug your 3.3v sensors straight into a 5v arduino, you're likely to toast them and make the magic blue smoke come out. The advantages of the 3.3v are that it uses less power and can talk directly to 3.3v sensors, and the advantage of the 5v is it has a faster clock frequency, an can talk straight to a 5v sensor.

        I hope that helps...!

    • Nice work Mike! You got to this as I was writing this comment and changing the regulator specs (see above). :)

      unknown member: I hope one of us answered your question.

    • MikeGrusin / about 13 years ago / 1

      This is a 5V board (as opposed to the 3.3V version) thus it is functionally equivalent to the full Arduino Mega. However, it does not come with a USB header, and thus requires a 5V FTDI board or cable in order to program it.

  • stcarlso / about 13 years ago / 1

    Is the note about the "3.3V system" obsolete since this is a 5V/16MHz arduino? It might be a remnant from the 3.3V release.

  • Camalaio_ / about 13 years ago * / 1

    I am not good at determining if things use crystal or ceramic oscillators from schematics. Please say it's a crystal? There's no reason, other than a few cents I would gladly pay, for this to have a crystal. There's tons of room on the board for a crystal, I think?

    EDIT: Pics are for 3.3V version, btw. As a customer, I can assure you seeing differences between description and pics can cause a little worrying :)

    • MikeGrusin / about 13 years ago * / 2

      It's a ceramic resonator (application note). We've found these to be highly accurate, however if you need a different clock source you could always hack the board.

      Good eyes on the photo; we currently have a backlog of photo requests and are using the 3.3V photo temporarily so as not to hold up the product release.

  • dksmall / about 13 years ago / 1

    The schematic link is for a 3.3v version.

    • neufuture / about 12 years ago / 1

      This was noted 8 months ago and still hasn't been corrected???? lazzzzzzzzyyyy

      • MikeGrusin / about 12 years ago / 3

        Not lazy - efficient! =)

      • The schematic is correct. It's the exact same as the 3.3V version except using a different regulator, thus the notes on the schematic under the regulator. Unless I am missing something?

Customer Reviews

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2 of 2 found this helpful:

Very good product

I purchased several of these devices for a project and they have been great. I like the solder connections because I have more faith in their long term reliability as compared to jumper wires. I had a problem with one of the boards I received but when I detailed the problem to the support team they had a replacement sent out quickly. I connected them to the Sparkfun Pro Ethernet shield and it should be noted that the connections to pins 10, 11, 12, 13 do not work on this board for the Ethernet shield. You must use the ICSP connectors for the Ethernet shield to work.