The PicoBuck LED Driver is an economical and easy to use driver that will allow you to control and blend three different LEDs on three different channels. By default, each channel is driven at 330mA; that current can be reduced by either presenting an analog voltage or a PWM signal to the board. Version 12 of the board adds a solderable jumper that can be closed to increase the maximum current to 660mA. The new voltage regulator also increased the voltage rating on the various components on the board, allowing it to be used up to the full 36V rating of the AL8805 part.
Three signal inputs are provided for dimming control. You can use the PWM signal from an Arduino or your favorite microcontroller to dim each channel individually, or you can tie them all to the same PWM for simultaneous dimming. Dimming can be done by an analog voltage (20%-100% of max current by varying voltage from .5V-2.5V) or by PWM (so long as PWM minimum voltage is less than .4V and maximum voltage is more than 2.4V) for a full 0-100% range. A small jumper is provided for each channel to allow you to increase the drive strength from 330mA to 660mA. Two mounting holes for 4-40 or M3 screws are provided on either side of the board. They are perforated so they can be easily snapped off with a pair of pliers, if a smaller footprint is desired.
Note: If you’re going to use screw terminals, this board uses two different sizes. Check the related products for both sizes you’ll need.
Note: The PicoBuck LED Driver was made in collaboration with Ethan Zonca. A portion of each sale is given back to him.
This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.
Skill Level: Rookie - The number of pins increases, and you will have to determine polarity of components and some of the components might be a bit trickier or close together. You might need solder wick or flux.
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If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.
Skill Level: Noob - Programming will be limited to basic drag and drop interfaces like ModKit or Scratch. You won't be writing code, but you will still need to understand some basics of interfacing with hardware. If you?re just using a sensor, it's output is analog.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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Based on 6 ratings:
I take old outdoor lighting that ran on AC and convert it to solar powered decorative yard/garden lights. I have a big project and the PicoBuck LED Driver is what I need to control the lighting.
Works well, as advertised. I wish they made the pins spaced by 0.1" instead, it’d be a lot easier to fit in 0.1" protoboards.
These things are just peachy! I am building custom dimmable LED lighting for my bedroom, using the COM-13104 3W LED’s. SO - first, I bridged the jumpers for the full 660 ma current out, and I tried using just a 10K pot on the input for dimming. It was just OK. Not good control at low levels. So I grabbed a pro-mini (DEV-11113) to do PWM modulation of the input. I even programmed it to give my linear pot a logarithmic taper to give me greater control at the low levels. Much better, but you get definite stepping of intensity as it goes from zero (off) to 1 to 2, etc. Not bad, just a little “steppy”. At full intensity, it’s like having a handful of small suns. Truly impressive. And surprisingly the LEDs dont get that hot at full power. I used thermally conductive tape (PRT-09771) to fasten the LEDs to an aluminum square tube, and they stay nice and cool.
Very clean way to drive those high power LEDs (3W). Even when limited to 330mA they are bright enough. Great Application Specific device! A bit pricey though, it really adds up when you use more than a few. Also I think it would be nice to have all the same size screw terminals, since the super small footprint is not needed for my application. Don’t get me wrong these are great devices and a perfect solution - the hook-up couldn’t be easier.
I’ve got this thing driving strings of LEDs I salvaged from a TV backlight. It just works. Watch out, though. The inductors crack on the top with less crushing force than you might expect. I had two of the three break, not sure how it happened. A little bit of super glue got them back together (mostly affects magnetic shielding, I suspect).