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This a simple breakout board for the button pads. Each LED and button is brought out to the side connectors. The connectors are soldered to the back side of the PCB. We recommend trimming the connector leads on the button side as short as possible to reduce the deflection of the pad.
Now with footprints for diodes! Use the super cheap 1N4148 through-hole diodes. These can be used to isolate the switches to make for a bit easier decoding.
This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.
Skill Level: Rookie - The number of pins increases, and you will have to determine polarity of components and some of the components might be a bit trickier or close together. You might need solder wick or flux.
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Based on 2 ratings:
All of the other comments and reviews are pretty spot on. The blue and green are flipped if you use SF's recommended RGB LEDs and the diodes aren't really necessary.
I wanted to use the buttons with a Frightprops boobox and had to remove the diodes to get the button inputs to work properly (if you read this first and happen to be doing the same thing, you can reverse them instead. I just used jumpers.)
The other weird thing is that on half of the board the green in the LEDS is "paler" than the other side. It's consistent across all the boards and LES (as I bought two) and it's only with the green color. One side of the board makes them lighter and the other side makes them a more deeper true green. (Even without the diodes in place)
Despite all that, they do what they are supposed to but it requires some research to make sure it's not broken.
I purchased these for my grandson. He says they are great. He was able to do the job he had in mind. He is 11. He has joined two of them and has the output wired to a frequency generator which now has an octave of notes.