These wireless receivers work with our 434MHz transmitters. They can easily fit into a breadboard and work well with microcontrollers to create a very simple wireless data link. Since these are only receivers, they will only work communicating data one-way, you would need two pairs (of different frequencies) to act as a transmitter/receiver pair.
Note: These modules are indiscriminate and will receive a fair amount of noise. Both the transmitter and receiver work at common frequencies and don’t have IDs. Therefore, a method of filtering this noise and pairing transmitter and receiver will be necessary. The example code below shows such an example for basic operation. Please refer to the example code and links below for ways to accomplish a robust wireless data link.
Note: These receivers are almost identical to the RF link 315MHz receiver. SparkFun does everything in our power to make sure you receive the product you requested. However, if you are concerned you may have received the incorrect product you can verify which version receiver this is by running a simple test circuit.
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To ensure that the RF links are working, we recommend trying to get the RF links working with our example code first. However, I have tested the RF modules with the VirtualWire librarie and Arduino 1.0.6 IDE software. I was able to get it working with this library => VirtualWire 1.20. This library worked with both Arduino 0023 and Arduino 1.0.6.
The example code used with the an Arduino microcontroller explains the setup for each RF Link. This is the setup which will work with either RF Link frequency band.
Transmitter Code (4 pin module)
Pin 3 of your Arduino should connect to pin 2 of your RF Link Transmitter 434MHz. Button is connected to the transmitting Arduino on pin 8 separate from the RF Link Transmitter. When a button is pressed on the transmitter, the corresponding LED should light up on the receiver and a character will be sent.
Receiver Code (8 pin module)
Pin 2 of your Arduino should connect to pin 2 of your RF Link Receiver 434MHz. When the button is pressed from the transmitter side, the corresponding LED on this side will light up on pin 8. One thing to note is that the associated LED will not light up on the receiver end if you do not have the associated character to check if it is what is received. An example is if you send a string of characters “Pin 4,” the receiver LED will not light up when the characters “Pin ” is sent. It will only light up when it sees the number “4”.
Note 1: It seems like when the receiver code is compiled with Arduino 0023 that the characters sent show a character and a space right after it in the serial monitor. When compiled with Arduino 1.0.6, you get an hex value and a space that is related to the ASCII character that was sent. You can verify it by checking the ASCII table and it will show that the hexadecimal value that was sent is indeed the character that was sent from the receiver. This has something to do with the shift in versions from Arduino’s 0023 to the Arduino 1.0 and above. Something was modified in the compiler or how a function was defined in the Arduino IDE.
Note 2: The RF Links are cheap wireless modules so you might get some intermittent data transmission/ corrupt data after a certain distance. They have a lot of noise. A better and more secure option might be to use the XBee Series 1 Wireless Modules.
Note 3: I am aware that the Virtual Library is EOL and that the RadioHead library supersedes it. I found out in the middle of updating the code. You shouldn’t have a problem with the library though even though it is EOL.
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Based on 13 ratings:
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I used this for a weather station. With an antenna I easily get communication at 20 yards through the house and likely much further (have not tested). Extremely easy to use with the accompanying transmitter.
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I tested these against some that I got on Amazon and some that I got on eBay. I found that these (with an antenna of just a hunk of wire) gave me 30 feet more distance than the others. I checked the output on a scope and these had much less noise at a distance where the others gave up. My results will eventually be on our open source home monitoring system: https://github.com/TeamPracticalProjects/SISProject
Got these (TX and RX) for an basic wireless project, got them up and running in no time with the VirtualWire library for Arduino (http://www.airspayce.com/mikem/arduino/VirtualWire/).
I have 8 Ambient Weather sensors located around the house that transmit data approximately once every minute. This receiver works great at picking them all up. Highly recommend.
My bad. I’m new to radio gear. I followed a project that recommended the older superheterodyne receiver. It’s been discontinued, but this one hasn’t. Turns out this one is a crappy super-regenerative board.
For the minute difference in cost it should have been the other way around. Why sell things that annoy customers, when vastly superior products are available?
This unit is very noise sensitive. My 3D printer washed out the signal, rendering it useless anytime I’m printing.
After looking at a different (forked) project (https://github.com/scruss/Powermon433#user-content-quick-start), I see this is the worst of the 3 types of receivers available. Sparkfun carries the best (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10154) - but it’s 3V and at over 5 times the cost (plus you have to solder in your own headers).
There are superheterodyne receivers available (sadly from elsewhere) that are a drop in replacement. I found one and now I have no more lost packets while printing. Perfect.
Sorry Sparkfun - I like your company, but please replace this (d|r)egenerative unit with a superheterodyne one.
PS: Thanks for taking time to reach out and make my experience better! Looking forward to more little red boxes in the future.
Great receiver. Easy to get going (I used VirtualWire with an Arduino) and reliable. Very pleased with it, especially considering the price.
Good service, good product,good,good
Well, don’t expect to slap some batteries on it a go. Not that simple. With my DSO I was able to create a favorable outcome with a op-amp, a few resistors, capacitors. I guess the best way to approach it is to think “ modest control of current” as well as using the op-amp as a simple low pass active filter at all times. An oscilloscope is a must to see if a circuit is working without “ false triggering”.
Works fine. RWS-371-6 receiver running at 9600 baud about 6 inches apart on a breadboard. Digital signal noisy (5v p-p) with no signal input. Linear signal very small noise with same. With input, digital signal identical to transmitted signal; linear very close with acceptable logic levels. Transmitter is TWS-BS-3. Further separation would most certainly yield better results similar to 315 MHz devices. To address the ID issue, have successfully sent Sync, ID, Data, Checksum packets using Atmega USARTs. Bare bones packet would consist of Sync [0xff] and data. This shorter packet yields better results (less overhead).
Works great - don’t forget to add antenna
I used this unit along with the matching transmitter for making a new garage door remote that would also open a gate. Using the radiohead library and giving the transmitter 12 volts, I was getting over 200 feet of range with one antenna behind a brick wall. Better line of sight would have made it even better. These Sparkfun units are worth the money over the less expensive units that are found elsewhere. Highly recommend them and the Radiohead library.
I rated this as excellent because for the price it is an excellent RF link. This Rx is located in my basement and receives a signal from a Tx in my garage which is approximately fifty feet away. Plus it is simple to wire and easy to program my Arduino UNO to use it.