Description: This is the Mini SparkFun Solder-able Breadboard. A bare PCB that is the exact size as our mini modular breadboards with the same connections to pins. This board is especially useful for preserving a prototype or experiment you just created on a solderless breadboard by soldering all the pieces in place.
Based on 8 ratings:
1 of 1 found this helpful:
So this does what it’s supposed to. I put things on it and they worked. So… it’s good.
2 of 2 found this helpful:
I love these solderable breadboards! They’re perfect for small projects.
The mini board fits perfectly on top of the Mini modular breadboard. Place this on top of the breadboard and stick the components in. Once your circuit is working, carefully lift the board off and solder everything into place.
Works as expected. I miss the super tiny square boards sparkfun used to carry, but this is probably more useful in more situations.
Does everything you’d like. But does not have power rails. For the money, I wish sparkfun carried https://www.adafruit.com/products/589 - they were backordered on Digikey, but finally got in.
I’m using one of these boards to build an infrared remote shutter controller for my camera (using an AVR 328P processor).
This board is well made (none of that “weak copper” that seems to peel off the minute it’s soldered).
I could probably buy a retail remote for less money and zero work, but what fun would that be? :)
Let’s see if this works… here are a few pics of the board and the IR remote in the process of being built:
(oh well you’ll have to copy and paste the URL….)
(edit to add): Made another IR remote board using an ATTiny25 this time. Again, the little protoboard is perfect! Just enough room for the CPU and crystal, plus the 2N4401 transistor to drive the IR LED and the associated resistors and bypass caps. Now I’m out of boards and have to order more! :)
this is a really premium feeling product. i highly reccomend it.
It is small and easy to work with. It looks good too!
I love these things. You can transfer your project straight from your breadboard to this protoboard. There’s no need to rework it unless you use the positive/negative rows on the sides. That’s the only thing I would change about it.
Other than that, just be sure you don’t heat it too much when soldering. The little conductive ring pad thingys will come off if they get too hot.