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The SparkFun Micro OLED Breakout Board breaks out a small monochrome, blue-on-black OLED. It’s "micro", but it still packs a punch – the OLED display is crisp, and you can fit a deceivingly large amount of graphics on there. This breakout is perfect for adding graphics to your next Arduino project, displaying diagnostic information without resorting to serial output, and teaching a little game theory while creating a fun, Arduino-based video game. Most important of all, though, is the Micro OLED is easy to control over either an SPI or I2C interface.
You may be asking yourself, "Why does this board look so familiar?" Yes, this is essentially a MicroView without the Arduino portion. We understand that sometimes you just need a breakout, an open door for you to explore the possibilities of a super small OLED screen. Speaking of, the screen on this breakout is only 64 pixels wide and 48 pixels tall, measuring 0.66" across.
In total, the Micro OLED Breakout provides access to 16 of the OLED’s pins. Fortunately, though, you’ll only need about half of them to make the display work. The top row of pins (GND-CS) breaks out everything you’d need to interface with the OLED over an SPI or I2C interface. The pins on the bottom (D7-vB) are mostly only used if you need to control the display over a parallel interface. This board operates at 3.3V with a current of 10mA (20mA max).
LCD Panel Size Length = 18.10mm Width = 18.46mm PCB Length = 20.28mm Width = 21.03mm
Manufacturer Specs for OLED => http://www.wisechip.com.tw/s/en/2/product/0-66%E2%80%9D-OLED-Display-UG-6448HLBEG03-380007.html
This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.
Skill Level: Noob - Some basic soldering is required, but it is limited to a just a few pins, basic through-hole soldering, and couple (if any) polarized components. A basic soldering iron is all you should need.
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If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.
Skill Level: Competent - The toolchain for programming is a bit more complex and will examples may not be explicitly provided for you. You will be required to have a fundamental knowledge of programming and be required to provide your own code. You may need to modify existing libraries or code to work with your specific hardware. Sensor and hardware interfaces will be SPI or I2C.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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Based on 27 ratings:
4 of 4 found this helpful:
I'm pretty new to the Arduino scene, so I'm still amazed at how much capability is baked into these little breakout boards (thanks to a lot of great library code that comes with it). This thing is so easy to use, and the refresh rate is so fast! I never thought it would be this easy to add fairly rich displays to my project, and it's so much more satisfying than a few blinking lights or 7-segment displays. My only issue with it was trying to hook it up to a 5v board (with the 3.3v supply and level adjusters, of course). I never got it to display anything but garbage, and I suspect the SPI clock and/or data lines were not clean enough after passing through the level adjusters. I gave up on the 5v board and switched to a 3.3v Arduino Pro, got rid of the level adjusters, and then the display worked like a dream. Highly recommended!
1 of 1 found this helpful:
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Clear and bright display. Curious as to why there are no level shifters (apart from 1K resistors on two lines) in the MicroView schematic if the ATmega328 is running at 5V.
2 of 2 found this helpful:
I had absolutely no problems running it, just connected as in hookup guide and voila! It has really good contras and I love running the cube example. Additionally it's so thin that can be placed anywhere. Thanks to OLED tech, no extra back-light it required which is even more extraordinary! I fully encourage all who thinks about this little guy to give it a try! You will have a lot of fun with it!!!
1 of 1 found this helpful:
This is a very easy display to code. Its very bright indoors but can be a bit difficult to see in direct sunlight (not impossible though). Only gripe concerning the build is the ribbon cable. After a fair amount of use over the past 4 months, the cable has sustained some damage due to rubbing and the display no longer works. Overall, I really enjoyed this display but I may decide to try out a larger OLED before I decide to go back to this one.
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Please note that you may experience "tearing" of a video display. By tearing a mean a frame of corrupted data. 1/2 last image and 1/2 the new image. This is not a major concern unless you are doing moving images. This is not the fault of SFE. The OLED display and its controller chip do not bring out one important pin. This is the "FR" or Frame Sync pin. To not tear video, one must write you image data during the blanking period indicated by this pin. For me on a fast ARM processor updating the display over I2C at a measly 1 Hz, I get a torn image every minute or so. Also, if you are in any way taking a video of the display, you will have aliasing problems recording at 30Hz. I suspect that this is the refresh rate of the OLED.
2 of 3 found this helpful:
Haven't turned this on yet but the video says it's a 96x48 pixel display but the specs here say 64x48.
Either is fine for what I want to do with it and I bought it assuming that 64x48 was the real resolution. But you might want to make sure the specs match the video or vice-versa.
As of 2015-02-17, the built in examples don't work with Arduino DUE. This is sad considering this product has been out for a long time.
1 of 2 found this helpful:
The LCD seems to be fine for the most part, but this breakout board is really substandard. The bend radius of the FPC is too small and really awkward. I know they were trying to make it small, but the layout and size of this board was ill-conceived. I now have two because the first one stopped working intermittently. The second has begun behaving the same way and it's definitely related to the FPC after several hours of debug effort.
As an aside, the display driver is really awful as well. It would have taken trivially more effort to make it fully object oriented, but, as it stands, you can only make a single instance of the class unless you literally copy and paste the files and then rename everything.
Sorry you are having issues with your board. We use this circuit in our Micro Views so the intended use case would have a custom enclosure to protect the screen and FPC. Looking over our records we have not seen any returns for this issue. However, if you are having trouble, please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org
We built one of these into a 1" x 1" x 0.5" 3D-printed enclosure along with an Arduino 328P microcontroller, ADXL345 accelerometer, FTDI USB interface chip, battery, charger, LDO and on-off switch. There's a picture at potomacmeso.com/display-with-accel. The combination of display and tap-sensitive accelerometer gives some interesting alternatives for 2-way communication between the user and the microcontroller. The display is easy to program, thanks to the libraries.
Tried it out with Teensy 3.2 installed on SparkFun Teensy Arduino shield board. This OLED display works great. The Teensy 3.2 is so fast that I had to add some delay statement in order to actually see the different display patterns.
I used this product with a 9S12 microcontroller instead of the Arduino. I used the SPI interface.
The Ardiuno libraries were accessible, and commented well enough for me to port into C myself. The documentation for the device was good enough for me to get the screen working like a charm.
Loved the resolution! I was able to get the gist of 3D shapes across on this screen which is smaller than a Quarter!
One thing to emphasize; toggling the Reset pin is critical to proper startup. The importance of this was not explicitly stated, that's the one thing I would improve.
This screen is awesome and the demo software is pretty sweet. Make sure you include solder wick with your order if you dont already have some. swapping those jumpers without it is difficult and potentially fatal. Otherwise this thing is awesome! Make sure not to power your Arduino until everything is connected otherwise the screen will miss the initial line of code and not work. Also, I didn't solder headers to the parallel pads as recommended, but make sure you at least rest the otherside of the board on some while soldering. That way your headers will be square and not cocked to one side.
Works fine with 5v logic, though there might be some long term effects I don't know.
Product works as promised by Sparkfun.
I wear glasses to read my cell phone and other small print so I kinda expected that this little display would be difficult for me to see. However, it is bright sharp and very easy to see. It is likewise very easy to setup and use. I am going to use it to display signal strength on the front panel of my radio project. The example code will help reduce development time.
Update - I'll give this an extra star since it really is my fault it is broken but still irritated at the difficulty involved to use this with I2C... If going I2C, use the Qwiik version of this and get the appropriate cable (I used the breadboard one) The extra few $ is well worth the time and frustration saved (again, if you are GOOD at desoldering/soldering very small pads or use SPI this probably won't be an issue for you)
Wish I could have actually had a chance to use it. I am giving a star just because I assume it might be good if you intend to use it with the SPI interface it comes configured with or have surgeons hands. I needed I2C and ruined the board trying to put it in that mode. What is the point in putting this onto a breakout board for easier connectivity if the jumpers to switch this to I2C mode are impossibly small solder pads? I would have picked a different OLED if there was some indication that you can't use I2C out of the box. I ended up breaking one of the sets of jumper pads off and now it is useless. Never even got to attach it to the device I wanted to use it with. I think most people would pay an extra dollar or two for you to put an actual jumper or a set of DIP switches on so that you don't have to semi-permanantly set the interface. For me, it was a complete waste of $ and an hour of my time. Guess I will look for a different product as this definitely won't work for me.
Really nice looking OLED display. Perfect for my modular synth projects.
Like someone else on here, I don't use arduino so I spent a few hours reverse engineering the basics + porting source code to another IDE.
Very easy to set up and get it going, complete library.
Not durable at all. I've had 2 breaking in relatively short time now, and I don't understand why. Soldering seems fine, the wiring is fine (tested it with new OLEDs), it just dies quite randomly.
Sparkfun, do you have any idea what could cause this?
The flexible strip that connects the screen to the board is very delicate. We recommend not flexing the strip where it attaches with the display or board very much. (Just enough to get things mounted.)
I used SPI interface and when I'm sending data 0. It should clear out the whole row(page) of the display, but it displayed a weird pattern of top 4 pixel turned on alternatively and bottom 4 pixel all off. See figure below, N represents turned on pixel and O represents turned off pixel. Keep in mind that I was sending data 0 and this is what been displayed.
I changed tried inverting display command and copy the whole initialization function from the library. Nothing solved it. Don't get me started on how they only mentioned the charge pump command in the last page of the SSD1306 data sheet. One of the most important command and it's only mentioned in the last page!
I think this is a faulty part. Now I need to get a new display. And this display is $15 ! Not cheap.
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Sharp color(blue only); not bad to set up and very to wire to Nano. Perfect for my little project...small yet visible.
In need if a better library...
The Micro OLED has been an excellent addition to a number of projects. It was a big hit as part of a recent BowTie project.
I'm fairly new to working with this kind of thing, but it was quite easy to get it up and running, and it looks great. Wish spark fun would stock some more sizes, these are great for displaying info in a small package.
A bright and crisp OLED display. Despite it's small size even 5x7-font-text is very readable. SPI transfer allows for a quite fast update rate of the whole display. Although there's 'only' an Arduino library available from Sparkfun and i'm using mbed boards and IDE, it was very easy to adapt the library for use with mbed platforms. Here is the link to the SFE_MicroOLED library for mbed:
It's everything it promises to be—it's a bright, brilliant blue with really sharp pixels, and it's no fuss to hook up to a board and get it working, especially with the provided drivers.
The screen is small, which I suppose is a selling point. But I really wish the acrylic casing around the screen—and especially the rear red breakout board—were smaller to match.
The driver seems well-designed, is automatically double-buffered for clean drawing, and has a good basic set of drawing primitives built in. On the limited space of, say, an Arduino Pro Mini, this library uses up a fairly large percentage of program & global memory, I actually stripped some of the code that I didn't need out, though it probably won't have been necessary to do so by the end of the project.
Love this oled screen. Got it soldered and running to a bluebean in no time. Gets really bright and it's really easy to get set up.