Breakout board for the microSD socket that is not much bigger than your fingernail. Compatible with the SPI interface found on any SD card, this tiny form factor was created for cell phone storage and is perfect for your next MP3 project! Board comes fully assembled and tested.
The bare socket is available.
We also have a tutorial using the microSD Shield that might be of some use => https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/microsd-shield-and-sd-breakout-hookup-guide#sd-card-breakout-boards . Try looking at the design of the microSD shield to connect to an Arduino Uno footprint. There are other widgets on our storefront that use the microSD (like the OpenLog or LilyPad MP3 to name a few). Try looking at the Eagle board layouts and schematics for an idea of how to connect a microcontroller to the SD and microSD cards.
Here's additional tutorials that might be of some use:
You must bring the voltage down from a 5V Arduino with a logic level converter. If you don't have a logic level converter, you can use some resistors like this the ones that were used in our old logic level converter [ https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/using-the-logic-level-converter#hardware-overview ].
Note: In relation to the microSD card's pinouts [ http://elasticsheep.com/2010/01/reading-an-sd-card-with-an-atmega168/ ] and the pins of this breakout:
microSD Card Pinout = breakout board silkscreen = microcontroller DAT0 = D0 = MISO VSS = GND = GND CLK = SCK = SCK VDD = Vcc = 3.3V CMD = DI = MOSI CD/DAT3 = CS = CS/S
We also sell a separate board called the "SparkFun Level Shifting microSD Breakout" https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13743 that has the level shifting built in.
To use with Arduino, there is an SD card library that has already been written => http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SD.
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Skill Level: Noob - Some basic soldering is required, but it is limited to a just a few pins, basic through-hole soldering, and couple (if any) polarized components. A basic soldering iron is all you should need.
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Based on 13 ratings:
6 of 6 found this helpful:
It works well for what it is.
As people have said in the comment section, the card when inserted DOES NOT extend all the way to the edge, so don't expect to embed this in an enclosure. This might depend on the exact card you're using but I have two different cards here and neither of them reach the edge.
It would have been nice to see all SD card pins broken out, but for my purposes I only intend to use SPI mode and this board is great for that.
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Just a simple breakout for a microhd socket with all the signals you need to talk to the card over spi.
If you have tried soldering wires onto a microSD card socket, well, forget it. Not impossible, but very, very difficult.
What this does is make it simple to attach a .1" header to the little board so it can be connected to a breadboard easily. It can also plug into a 6 or 7 pin female header - the CD pin in rarely used.
The microSD socket used for this is from conn4u.com and is very economical; as long as you want 3000 of them. If you were hoping on using the Gerber files for this for your own PC board, you will find them to be pretty useless because of the source of the socket. MicroSD sockets are not all that popular to have public PC board layouts for and they are complex and have pretty close tolerances. I understand why the conn4u.com part is used: it is pretty good and it is cheap if you are going to use a lot of them. I wish the manufacturers (Hirose, Amphenol, etc.) made available either nicer drawings or layout files for these things.
Having the option to install pull-ups on the PCB would be very helpful.
I'll pass your comment along for future consideration if we revise this product. Thanks!
Had an application where I needed to add a uSD card to a Teensy 3.1. This allowed me to verify my PCB design. I was also able to start coding while I waited on OshPark to finish my boards.
I bought 3 of these breakout boards and fought with one for 2 days figuring that there had to be something wrong with my code. As it turned out the breakout board was faulty and as soon as I switched out the board everything worked great. I haven't tried my third one yet.
I'm sorry to hear that you received a faulty board. If you'll contact our tech support team, we'll be happy to arrange a replacement or refund for you.
does the job. works great.
would be nice if you added a 1uF or .1uF cap across VCC and GND. The spec for hooking up uSDs says to do this. Would be nice if you had a SMT cap on the next rev of the board.
just a thought.
I got tired of stripping regulators and LEDs off of imported TransFlash boards to use them for low-power projects. I bought the SparkFun TF board because it is just the socket, so it works perfectly at 3.3v. I have two for my breadboards - one with a right angle connector and one with a straight connector.
Haven't used it yet. Hope to use it with an AVR or Propeller micro for an MP3 player eventually.
Unfortunately this board did not work for us because only 6 of the 8 pins are brought out from the uSD socket.for wiring. We ended up buying the microSD sniffer board for our application.
Hi, Sorry to hear that this didn't work for your needs. Please contact us if you would like to return it for a refund. We'll be happy to help you out. https://www.sparkfun.com/returns
This is good for lower power and lower cost, compared to the the level-shifting breakout, but ...
The connections should be located behind the socket, which would make the breakout board it easier to handle and would facilitate mounting in an enclosure. The board may be slightly larger, but that is not important.
And to consolidate other person's recommendations:
Add a decoupling capacitor Vcc to gnd, 0.1 uf to 1 uf. Provide pull-up resistor pads (or just add resistors with cut-able trace) Breakout all sd connections.
Very simple and easy to integrate.