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Description: A very powerful 5mW green laser. Fun, but don't point in anyone's eyes. These units include a momentary power button and two solder points for permanent on. The trim-pot adjusts the output power. We were able to push the current up to about 400mA where things started getting toasty, and very bright.

Features:

  • 532nm Green Laser
  • 5mW output power (FDA Class IIIa)
  • 2.5V to 4.5V input voltage
  • Max current: 300mA

Dimensions: 56 x 11.5mm

Documents: Datasheet

Replaces: COM-08315

Comments 68 comments

  • This laser is safe as long as handled properly. As a word of caution though, this laser, like most green lasers, is a Nd:YVO4 + KTP laser which means the lasing wavelength is 1064nm and the output of the cavity is then frequency doubled (wavelength halved) to get 532nm. The vast majority of laser eye injuries I’ve heard of have happened near this wavelength by Nd:YVO4, ND:YAG, and similar mediums. That being said, any tampering (opening the package, removing the IR filter (assuming it has one), etc.) with the laser itself could be very detrimental to your health since 1064nm is very outside of our visible spectrum and you will not know the danger is present until it’s too late.

    • Very nice and affordable laser!

      Got it up to a measured 20 mW for a brief moment (didn’t dare to burn it permanently). Can confirm that

      • there is no effective filtering for the 1064 nm component,
      • a spectral width of about 532+-2 nm, and that
      • at 5 mW the TEM00 is dominant but not the only mode visible.
  • Super awesome laser!! but where are the 2 solder points for permanent on?

  • Could this laser burn something like paper for say or is it not strong enough

    • In my experiance 5mw lasers do not burn through paper, sorry. But there are some amasing kipkay.com videos and you could find kipkay on Youtube too. I think the best video is the cheapy lighter laser burner!

  • I got this laser and it was really really bright. No way this is only 5 mW. More like several hundreds of mW.

    It was drawing about 400 mA at 4 volts so it is drawing 1,6 W. It had a weary clearly visible beam and i could see the dot clearly many hundreds of meters away.

    I guess mine must have been set at the max power when i got it then. And i guess that keeping it on this setting will shorten the life on it significantly?

  • Photos comparing this to the red laser card module. I attached it to 3x NiMH AAs (+ to the housing and ground to the spring) and, without adjusting the trimpot, measured 4.2v and 225-230mA. As everyone says, it’s very bright; almost uncomfortable to look at the dot on white surfaces.

  • Has anyone rigged this to produce constant power? A constant current regulator helped, but the output power still fluctuates more than I can handle.

  • Does anybody know what the thread size/count is?

  • Is it normal that when hooked directly to 3v via battery pack that the light output is very high for about 1 second then steps down to a lower output? The lower output is still good, but I want the higher output.

  • FYI, I just measured this module with a power meter and the laser outputs a 40mW beam when I hooked it up directly to a 3.3V source (running at 270mA). This is well outside FDA class IIIa, so be careful!

  • You should get something like this in the 445nm or 405nm wavelength. Or maybe just a normal pointer of that wavelength. To go with you guys' PHOTOLUMINESCENT PANELS!!

  • Is this beam visible indoors?

  • Anyone knows what is the pulse width for this particular laser?

  • Previous posts about the spring being the positive power connection are wrong. The spring is negative and the aluminum housing and/or the laser lead connected to the pad indicated by the black Magic Marker marks on the aluminum housing is positive.

    Jump the pads along either edge of the push button switch for continuous ON.

    • This is absolutely correct. After applying ground to the spring and power to the housing, the module produces a laser after the button is pressed, tested today(12/14/12).

      • To power the laser:

        Housing Power (2.5V to 4.5V input voltage, max 300mA)

        Spring Ground

        Make sure that the potentiometer is not turned all the way down. The button is a momentary so the laser will only be on as long as you are pressing the button.

  • Is it the same as this laser module?

  • Can anyone recommend a way to switch it on and off rapidly (e.g. turn it on and off with 50 microsecond transition times): it is simply best to just control the power input quickly? It’s a wonderful product for our light scattering experiments. Thanks for reading.

  • I just lost all respect for Australia due to their anti-laser law :(

  • TO AUSSIE CUSTOMERS: you can import this. see here http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page4372.asp

    scroll to the very bottom

  • Two questions! How do I power this laser, mine has two cables, one red and one blue and the spring. Red equals vcc and blue gnd? And the spring is? Secondly, I want to turn it on and off remotly with the IOIO board, is the board capable of providing the power? A 9V battery powers the IOIO.

  • Not to be really dumb, but where is v+ and ground? I assume the spring is one of them, but where is the other?

  • I bought one of these, and it’s awesome, but I have two questions.
    1.) What is the best way to drive this? I’ve tried resistors in series to regulate the current, but it’s a constant-current device, right? Any recommendations?
    2.)When there’s only ~160mA running through it, is it normal for it to act like an IR laser?

    • 1) This (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/LM317KCT/?qs=TB/Q0sBK/Gcz1btw204Pbw==) will help regulate the current. Figure 9 in the data sheet has a schematic - adjust the resistor for different currents. 2) Watch out! There’s no IR filter in this module.

  • Datasheet link returns 404

  • Cool… now lets get an inexpensive mirror galvanometer around here to have some real fun!

  • I bought this laser expecting it to be maybe a little stronger than a pointer laser (Boy, was i wrong)
    At night I pointed this laser at the local water tower, and I could SEE the laser from ¾ mile away!
    Remember its a Class II Felony for pointing lasers at planes.
    Be CAREFUL!

  • buy the monster module you want here. http://www.dealextreme.com/p/200mw-532nm-green-laser-module-3v-11-9mm-26891
    but MAKE SURE you buy eye protection with these.. you need all three wavelengths 890nm, 1064nm and 532nm all in one.. get them at http://www.laserglow.com/AGF model # LSG-KTP-NF-6
    The first two are at IR wavelengths, and sometimes manufacturers skimp on the IR-Blocking filters.. so it leaks and you’ll never see it.. until your blind.. then you’ll know!
    be safe!

  • I want a laser w/digital pot :)

  • how longs does the diode last at 400ma?

  • Hi:
    I have a 5VDC digital output from an embedded system board and want to power one of these lasers, I tried using simply a resistor in series to reduce the voltaje from 5V to 3.2 but is very unstable (light intensity changes in time) any other suggestions to interface with this laser?
    Regards
    Jaime

  • I’ve a little problem with mine, it’s not green laser but an IR laser. Maybe it’s the power source (I’ve used 200mA, 4.3V)?
    Or something else, if anyone have an idea ?

  • How do you hook it up to power source?

  • Great laser, just as bright as the previous kind but please update the photos!

  • Does anyone knows what can I use as a receiver for this laser? I want to esasy detect just when the laser is On/Off. What things can I use for that? Thanks!

  • I just got my laser from the new batch, but its circuit layout is different from that pictured above. Mine doesn’t have the two solder points, and the spring takes up the entire back of the board. How do I hook it up to power?

    • I am there with you Hoobens, I just got mine in today and noticed it was not the same as the description above. Using a meter and some trial and error I found (Sparkfun, please correct me if I am wrong) that the spring and the switch is the ground. If you look at the spot BETWEEN the switch and spring, you will see a silver pad, that is the Positive terminal. For permanent ON you will need to solder your ground to the two terminals to either side of the switch closest to the laser diode barrel. You will also have to figure out a way to solder to the silver pad between the switch and spring as well (I am still working on that).

      • Thanks for the tip. It turns out if you don’t want to use that tiny pad near the button, you can also use the metal laser housing as the positive terminal.

        • Yes on the metal housing; I used copper tape to affix my positive lead to the metal housing and it worked like a charm. My negative lead is soldered directly to the spring.

  • Does sparkfun intend to ever sell these again? The last batch was awesome..

  • Out of stock? More please!

  • Would this be good for a laser pointer for stars, and slideshows? I’ve never really built a laser pointer before, but i would like to try.

  • Hi:
    What if i power the module with 5 VDC, will it work ok?
    Regards

  • Does the laser also have an infrared filter and can the pot also allow the power output to be lowered?

  • Okay, hooked it up, and instead of a nice solid green dot, i got a dot surrounded by a scattering of green light. The scattered light pattern is awfully wide (~1 foot in radius from the center at about 6-8 feet distance) and noticeable; it just doesn’t have that pinpoint dot feel like a laser should.
    I think it’s the lens; i’ve tried adjusting it up and down, but that doesn’t make the pattern any better or worse, just rotates it on the wall. It looks really pretty, sure, but it’s not what i had in mind, ya know?
    Does anyone else think/know if it might be the laser’s lens? As in, is my problem unique and could be solved with a new lens, or is this diffraction simply the norm and i had my expectations too high?
    With SFE I would guess the former, but with my luck it’s the latter. Anyway, somebody please clear this up for me.

  • Are you getting more of these?, I love it and I definitely want to have a backup / spare. I want to wait till you have more before I order an Optoisolator breakout board to drive this on and off.

  • How do you use the momentary button? Power to the two solder points gives permanent on. Where do you connect to be able to use the button to excite the laser?

    • the spring is ground and you use the solder point for VCC but be sure to use a 3.3v regulated source as i burnt mine out and they aren’t in stock right now

  • @NOTgate: You seem knowledgeable, so do you know where (I’m inside the US) I can find something like the module on dealextreme for the same price or less. I need something that works at around 5V. Also it should be capable of 100 mW. Its ok if I have to mod it to do that, when I said household I meant solar eclipse glasses (which block all near visible light, including IR and UV), in fact it is favorable if it is cheaper to do so. I need it mainly for the burning power. It will be turned on and off, being on for no more than 10 seconds. Lastly, cost constraints are present. I am $40 over budget (out of $120)so the cheaper the better, and if it is available on a site that offers electronic items like sparkfun or pololu that would be good (shipping costs come into play). Lastly, if I mod a laser when will I need a heat sink, for what, and of what type. If you answer I am greatly indebted to you, so thanks.

    • Whoa, careful with those goggles. You really want to get real safety goggles appropriately matched to the output of your laser. Eclipse glasses could be dangerous – since they block almost all light, they open up your iris to its full extent (oops), suppress your blink reflex to bright lights (double oops), and they don’t guarantee strong blocking of the specific wavelength of your laser (and if your laser is not firmly in the visible spectrum, how will you know whether they are actually effective at all at that wavelength?). The sun is a full-spectrum blackbody radiator, and eclipse glasses are trying to do an okay job suppressing the total power received across the whole spectrum, which is a very different task from strongly filtering a bright emission at a single laser wavelength. Most real materials have absorption spectrums with lots of peaks and notches. You don’t want to find out the hard way that your glasses happened to have a notch at exactly 532nm.
      Anyway, I’m not a physician, nor a laser technician, so I could be completely off-base. But please don’t cut corners on safety.

    • If you want it in the US, a red or blu-ray laser module is best. Blu-ray (dark violet) modules are very good at burning, because they can focus to a very small point and can be absorbed more by most surfaces. A >100mW module (used) should cost you less than $30. Check out laserpointerforums.com. Start up a thread in the buy/sell/trade section asking for a “PHR-803T” module with a driver. The PHR thing is a diode that can safely output just above 100mW. The only problem is that the driver will probably be a rckstr, which if I remember correctly will want about 7.25 volts to power a blu-ray. A boost driver will be more expensive. You should also ask for a heatsink. I got my plain aluminum block heatsink for about $30 (I could have gotten a better deal). Ask for one of those too, you’ll want one if you run it for more than 10 or so seconds and your duty cycle is more than say 10%. If you get a diode too hot it dies. Note:You can get more power out of a red laser for a cheaper price, but it depends what you want. Blu-ray is less visible but often much better for burning.

      • So, what if I required a laser that had a output up to 100-200 mW. I want to use it to send the light to a light to frequency converter, then that will tie into a microcontroller and cause my project to stop, turn, or whatever I decide to have it do. Where could I find such a laser? Thank you.

    • When I’m playing with lasers, I like to use class X safety goggles (glasses covered in duct tape).

      • Duct tape doesn’t protect against high powered lasers, they just burn it in less than a second if properly focused. The next barrier is your retina. Eclipse goggles doesn’t protect either, as they just burn too. Those are made to handle a broad spectrum emission with an overall low power density. With a laser, you’re talking about power densities that are some orders of magnitude away from what you could receive from the sun, at a very specific wavelength. Same happens to welding glass or most other household items. So please, do take this seriously.
        For the pot-modding dude: you won’t get 100mW’s out of this, it just aint gonna happen. Considering an optical efficiency of 15% being generous for such a cheap module, you’d need a 50mW pump diode to get 5mW’s, and a 700mW pump diode to get 100mW. A 50mW rated diode just won’t emit 700mW’s. 100mW (15mW of total output) could be done, 200mW (30mW of total output) attainable for some hours, but above that, it would just burn.

  • Can you modify the potentiometer and/or overall output on this thing and if so, how? If not what cheap laser module can I use to achieve these powers, and where can I get it (preferably a site with other electronics like sensors and stuff)
    @ NOTgate: - I need a CHEAP laser for a project I am over budget and I cannot afford a 100mW module.
    - It does not need to last long, an hour of lifetime would be more than enough, but it needs to emit (infared included)approx 100 mW.
    - I AM USING GOGGLES (clarification on what type of household material to use would be appreciated, though).

  • Can anyone speculate what type of receiver would I use If I was going to build a simple type of laser tag with this?

    • For laser tag, you’d want to use an IR laser because of less interference from the sun and if you wanted the green dot effect you could simply add this as a targeting laser and have it lined up with the IR one. If for some reason you must use green, maybe a bandpass filter and a photodiode? But the target would be really small…

  • DO NOT modify the pot on this to increase output power! Not only is it dangerous if you don’t use goggles, but on top of that it will kill the laser module VERY quickly! “Pot modding” to increase power in green laser modules is frowned upon by laser enthusiasts for a reason. If you want more power, buy a more powerful module. And this will not be controllable by PWM or TTL because this uses a DDL driver, and DDL drivers do NOT like being modulated at high speeds. That said, have fun with this! Green laser light is MANY times brighter per mW than red laser light (4 to 40 times brighter depending on the person looking and distance from the laser dot).

  • This is an awesome find! For while one could buy a full 5mw green laser pen at this price, it really is a worthless, hard to remove shell with $15 of electronics in it. Definitely buying one of these next payday.

  • A few questions:
    - Can this be linearly amplitude modulated? Up to what frequency?
    - Can we control the output power? Looks like there is some kind of pot on board.


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