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Description: The SparkFun Heaterizer XL-3000 heat gun is a handy tool that everyone should have. It's great for heat-shrink, melting things, and even very basic low temp rework. The size is great for a lot of different applications and it heats up pretty quickly.

Features:

  • 300 watts of heating power
  • 110v operation only

Documents:

Comments 142 comments

  • that is the single greatest instruction manual i have ever read.

    • You said it. Every instruction manual should be written like that.

    • Read The Funny Manual. It was worth half the price just for that. Well, maybe two bucks worth.

    • This manual was pretty awesome. I need to work on my “primal scream”…

      AudioControl used to have similarly fun manuals like that. Also made AMAZING competition level crossovers for your car…

    • I just had to read it, and I have to say, that IS the most awesomest instruction manual I’ve ever read!

      Imagine if every instruction manual was THAT FUN! :D

    • I laughed my head off! That manual is awesome.

    • i have never seen one written soo “down to earth”

  • Just get 2 of ‘em, strap 'em together with some duck tape, wire them in series and you’ve got yourself a 240V XL-6000 superheaterizer.

    • Reading this I was sure you were going for jetpack xD

    • IT’S DUCT TAPE!!! AHHH!!! (cough, wheeze, choke, die)

      • Actually the brand name is Duck Tape

        • You mean ONE of the brands that makes duct tape is duck tape… DUCT tape is for repairing heating/cooling DUCTS. And of course all kinds of other crap. And I’ve used Duck Tape tape, it pales in comparison to the hardware store stuff that is constructed out of proper material.

          • Please do not use the silver/black fabric tape on ducts. It doesn’t work well, and is probably prohibited by building codes in your area, for good reason.

          • BUT…the tape was originally developed by the military in WWII to be a strong, waterproof tape for boots and ammunition boxes. It was then dubbed duck tape because it repelled water like a duck. It wasn’t until after the war that its use on air ducts became prominent. So if you would like to be technical, Duck Tape was the original name before Duct Tape.

          • I always thought it was called DUCT tape because they shortened the phrase “Ductile Tape” - but what do I know :) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ductility

          • So what we’re saying here is to use actual Duct tape. Something approved for use on heating ductwork, considering these get hot.

            • Real DUCT tape is usually a thin aluminum foil backed with glue. There may be two kinds of duct tape, one designed for A/C use ONLY, and one for A/C and heating ducts. So the DUCK tape kind will work for A/C vents, especially the return vents that take inside air BACK to the air handler. BOTH names are used universally, though DUCK TAPE may be trademarked. Finally the gazillion and one uses for the stuff have been explored by the Mythbusters many times (they made an airplane, a boat and a bridge out of duck tape!).

  • Robert didn’t follow the proper instructions in the video. Where is the primal scream?

  • Definite win on the manual.

  • YESYESYES buy this not only for it’s many good uses, but for that legendary instruction manual of heavy duty proportions! The greatest money I’ve ever spent… just because of that manual.

  • “What you are currently holding in your hands is the SparkFun Heaterizer XL3000” So… My coffee is actually a Heaterizer in disguise?

  • It takes like 20 minutes to heat up a frozen burrito…

  • i have tried to read the manual but was unsure of the intended purpose of this item, it seems that in translation into english your staff have made a few grammatical errors. Just to be clear, does this item get hot?

  • +1 on the 220V version request! (ok, I know people is asking for 240V but what the heck, it’s closer than 110 ;)

  • I really want one of these now, but here in New Zealand, our mains runs off of 240V AC =[

    • Just use one of the power wires, instead of both. Instant ½ power.
      -Taylor

      • DUDE, both wires HAVE TO BE CONNECTED for the circuit to be complete! I can’t tell whether you are kidding, totally ignorant, or a poorly designed robot sent by aliens to destroy society.

        • He’s saying that if the power is two-phase, use one of them. That will work. Although more likely, the power system is similar to the current US system where one wire is “live” (120v RMS), one is neutral (grounded at the entry point to the house), and one is earth ground. In which case the idea is irrelevant.

      • lol!

      • Or you could cut both of the wires in half.

        • Well he could always just plug into the mains and wear heat resistant gloves… Slap some propane on that motha and you got a torch. horatio_caine()
          { I bet that would “Spark” some “Fun.” (Yeaaaaahhhhh!);
          }

        • Duh, of course that’s how it works.
          /s

    • Buy two and wire them in series.

      • I had a mental fade moment and brought one of these things (we run 230v over here). Feeling pretty stupid about it, I decided to hack it. I opened it up hoping the manufacturer would have designed it for both 110v and 220-240v and just wired it for 110. sadly no. but what i noticed is that the motor has a rectifier in front of it. ie a high voltage dc motor. so i wondered… what about just putting a power diode in series with the AC lines in… so it would cut off half the AC waveform. That seems to work!. i would not recommend this as proper solution as the motor will be getting double its voltage for half the time. Also noticed that it overheats easier than it should (prob motor not running as fast as it should)

      • Unfortunately, that wouldn’t work.

      • This would work if you put the ground in between the two devices. Any imbalance of current would go to ground. This is basically an Edison circuit. Also, unless there is a GFCI in the breaker or plug you could just wire from 1 mains to ground. Not sure what code is in New Zealand…so, I wasn’t here, I didn’t say this… :)

      • I like this idea for some reason :-)

    • Just plug it in and turn it on and off very rapidly. Easy!

  • LOL… the best instruction manual :)

  • Little known fact: the heat gun was actually on from 1:19-1:34, Robert’s whole body is actually a heat sink.

    The more you know…

  • I agree that I shouldn’t complain about a $10 heat gun, but most heat guns have a fan-only mode to cool it down when you are done. This one doesn’t have that mode, so when you turn it off, it overheats and trips the thermal safety. I have to wait 20 minutes to turn it on again.
    Also, after 3 or 4 uses, mine won’t turn on at all, even after it cools off. I suspect its something related to the overheating. Like any self respecting techno-geek I’ll be disassembling it to figure out why, since its not worth sending back.

    • Yeah, if you set it down after use, the heat propagates back and trips the uh-oh mechanism. Nice that it has one, but it’s poorly placed or too sensitive or something.

      I’ve found that by hanging mine on a hook when I’m done, convection cools it nicely and it doesn’t disable itself. Works, but awkward.

  • you guys should up the heat on this, make a low cost hot-air rework tool. The fact that this works for resistors and small stuff is great, but come up with something that fits between this and a 200$ Aoyue tool…say 30-50$?

    • Seconded. It worked for small things with regular solder, but I tried to desolder some USB ports with it and it couldn’t melt the solder near the tabs for the shield. I think it’s the same sort of high-temp solder they use in PSUs for all the big wires; I always had more trouble melting those.

    • Heat guns are sold all over the place sub $30. Harbor Freight has a decent offering of inexpensive, well everything really.

    • Just buy three and wrap them with duct tape. ;) ~wink~

  • Is it really unsafe to use on food, or was that just a joke? Sounds like a safer way to get that crème brûlée crust without an open flame.

    • I’ll try making some s'mores and let you know.

      • it actually makes s'mores like a champ. it even browns the marshmallow pretty good.

        • Marshmallows, now fortified with more carcinogens!

        • This entire comments section has been epic Sparkfun reading material (the Duck tape conversation was particularly good) however it wasn’t until you brought up s'mores that I considered purchasing this item. Now I’ve got to have one.

    • In a similar vein, to whom should I direct my questions with respect to use on creme brulee? It does seem an obvious application.

      • For creme brulee you actually need flame in order to caramalize the sugars quickly.

        • Well, sure, but I don’t mind it taking longer when my niece wants to get involved in dessert making when she’s 5 and a dropped torch means setting some part of the kitchen on fire.

          • I think a torch with an obvious flame might be safer for a child (or me) than this which looks the same on or off (unless you’re looking at the element).

            Maybe if it had a {light-sabre}-like effect when on….

  • How many watts is it?
    I wish there were a 240V version, but maybe I can run it off a huge step-down transformer I have.

  • cool product and instruction manual, good price too. Ill think ill drop my free day credit on this

    • take that back 10$ shipping is a bit too much. but still a awesome product

      • void rant() {
        Is this the only thing in your cart? Sir… $10 shipping is pritty standard from my exp…
        One thing is true, it Pays to get more at once. I only paid $14 for express shipping on my freeday order of over $50.
        }

  • Having first tried a harbor freight heat gun that only succeeded in heating itself, spiting out a piece of molten plastic, and stinking up the house, this is easily the cheapest working one you can buy. I can’t comment on its rework abilities, but for $10 it works heatshrink like a pro. Well worth it.

  • Is there any plan for a heat gun 220v?

  • Wait a minute, the Shack sells these for only $29.99!!!

  • Would this be good for melting my polymorph from you guys? ;)

  • But sh*t, it was ninty-nine cents!

  • I learned recently that if you somehow accidentally restrict the air flow into these things, they can turn into flamethrowers. YMMV.

  • Does this unit have any safety certifications? UL listed? cUL or CSA for Canada?

  • Want to hear something funny “cough” r.s. sells this identical heat gun for $30. Were is the beter deal?

  • I just wanted to chime in that, in addition to simple rework, a fully warmed up Heaterizer XL-3000 seems to be perfect for fixing those pesky Nivida GPUs that tend to desolder themselves from laptop motherboards. In the last few weeks I’ve rescued two machines with dead displays using only a Heaterizer, a piece of aluminum foil to protect the rest of the motherboard, and basic hand tools. Two 15-second blasts about 30 seconds apart from about 1-1.5" away, a little gentle even pressure with a probe after the first blast, and they are both up and running.

  • Anybody else find that you can only use this for short periods of time before it stops turning on for about 10 minutes. I often use mine for 15-20 seconds at a time, 3 or 4 times and then it will completely stop working. If I wait about 5-10 minutes I will hear a barely audible click and then it will work again for another short period and then stop again. It never stops mid stream, only when you turn it off and back on again.

  • What is the weight of this for shipping?

  • The instructions are right…do not aim it at your cat…I should have listened…RIP Fluffy…:(

  • Just a little to cool to be a good tool for soldering surface mount components. It takes around 40s to get the solder paste to flow (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10448). It would be really nice if it was just a little warmer (or if it had a hot/warm switch).

  • I’ve seen someone melt hot glue with something similar. Has anyone tried that with this?

  • Hot enough to melt the glue for changing the blade on an ice hockey stick? I love impulse buying tools, but a second application makes the buy even more justified! (Also kudos on the manual)

  • It could use a fan only setting to keep it from thermaling when you turn it off. after more then a minute of use the seccond you turn it off it will not turn back on for several minutes. or maybe a 10seccond fan only when you turn it off so it cools down vs thermaling.

  • +1 for a 240V version for the UK!!!!

  • why 110V only…. :-(

  • why would not you use it for removing ICs? is it going to damage the IC or won’t be able to heat it enough? what about surface mount stuff?

    Thanks, -Rami

  • You know ! ! ! ! every time I get on this site or place an order or talk to customer service, I love this company just a little more. Great manual.

  • I soldered a QFN chip with this today. Blow air directly from the top at around 1 inch distance away. Make sure you have a clear working area, and the PCB won’t move around. Use flux. Be ready to nudge the chip slightly if you accidentally blow it out of place.

  • The manual rocks and the product rocks. It does a great job a heating up boards as well as shrinking tubes. Plus the instruction manual is worth passing around. Never had a problem with it overheating and it works, that’s what matters.

  • Greetings from Costa Rica, the heat gun is ideal for HEAT-SHRINK TUBING should be included in the catalog

  • Anyone tryed to connect this one to 220V in Israel?
    If 2 of them in series will work I would buy them.

  • I have used this fine product for:
    -Removing TQFP and SOIC ICs. Takes a while, but the board still seems to work afterwards, so aces there.
    -Removing the broken glass digitizer of an iPhone from its plastic frame, for replacement. Gets hot, but nicer than using a hair dryer.
    -Heat shrinking heat shrink tubing.
    -Flattening a gas station gift card that had been bent due to sun-based heat.
    Works mighty fine, if you ask me.

  • Love this thing. It converts bread into toast faster than my toaster.
    It’s hard to complain about a $10 heat gun such as this, but the cooldown is a bit frustrating. After about 3 minutes of use it won’t turn back on if you turn it off. I usually end up waiting about 20 minutes until it will turn back on again.

  • Haha i saw this one somewhere else. It’s meant for embossing powders ;). +1 for the price though

  • Works great for Heaterizing Post-Easter Peeps! (and the cord is surprisingly nice as well)

  • Best product manual I have ever had to chance to read! I actually read the ENTIRE thing! Props!
    Buy this awesome heat gun for the manual, hands down best laugh I’ve had in a while.

  • If I was an ordinary web surfer instead of a middle aged geek who has used creme brulee as an excuse to buy torches and other gadgets for 30 years (and only prepared it for the occasional valentines or birthday), this thread would make me suspect “creme brulee” was a euphemism for some sort of extreme kink.

  • This device is awesome. I have pulled SMD chips, fixed USB connectors and other fun things. I would say this is a great tool for simple rework. Oh, I also used it for heat shrink.
    Now, as to not using for food? Why would a heat gun not be food grade? Is it throwing chunks of invisible hot heavy metals? Or is the reason it is so cheap is because it really is a nuclear accelerator? Is this accelerator spewing out radioactive particles that could morph the very food we are cooking into simple enzymatic goo that could eat the world? Are we going to have to call on Chuck Norris to defeat this goo with a round house kick to the … umm … goo parts?
    This concerns me as I am sure it concerns others here contemplating using it to cook say creme brulee. Are you people sure you want to go out as being the person eaten by a creme brulee goo monster? I know I don’t.

  • I read the instructions and I still don’t get it. Is this some kind of hair dryer?

  • I’m sorry to report a glaring flaw in what is otherwise the worlds greatest instruction manual:
    “Imagine if Chuck Norris roundhouse kicked a cloned Chuck Norris, what would happen?"
    Problem is… how did they clone Chuck Norris? The needle would break when they would try and take a blood sample.

  • Not a universal AC power supply. No pin bending for me :

  • I also found the instructions very entertaining! This fricken thing works AWESOME! I don’t hafta use the Tim Taylorized hair dryer I liberated from my girlfriends immense purse anymore. I’ve also found it is perfect for accelerating Globular Warming! You dudes and dudettes are Stupendously Fantastic and stuff!

  • Tried my new Heaterizer XL-3000 Heat Gun today, love it! Does exactly what the manual said!

  • How much airflow does this (normally) have? It looks promising for mobile rework. I’m not to worried about reaching adequate temps (though it clearly can already) because I know from unrelated projects that slightly constricting the outflow with a homemade sheet metal nozzle can significantly increase outflow temperature. I just don’t want to blow SMD parts off the board.

    • The air flow is pretty high but the nozzle is pretty big so it isn’t strong enough to blow molten parts away. It will float a leadless ic off center as the flux flows, but only if you’re not perpendicular to the board. You may or may not have some head room for a constricted nozzle. It certainly would be interesting to see SF offer some smaller nozzles for this.

  • “Do not use this gun to heat up your food"
    That said, I bet it makes a mean Crème brûlée :P
    Edit: Creme brulee, seeing as the Sparkfun comments box doesn’t seem to like them funky accents

  • If I blasted this on the bottom of a board, would an SMD IC on top reflow without damage?

    • I would imagine that the total heat applied to the board by this 300W device wouldn’t be enough for SMD work. However, inexpensive heat guns have been used by RC hobbyists for years to shrink mylar based covering for model airplanes. This one for example is $19, and is 3.3x the wattage:
      http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXHZ16&P=8
      I would imagine 1000W should be sufficient to do some SMD work (Disclaimer: Although I do have a Monocote heat gun, I haven’t ever tried using it for SMD work. YMMV.)
      Peter.

      • I have personally used this gun to remove some resistors from a board. It does work. However, it’s probably not precise enough for an SMD IC, but then again, I didn’t try it. You might get it to work, we used hot plates before and they worked…

        • Just you go ahead and try it and you’ll find something else that you’ve tried and found to work. I believe you’ve just inadvertently created your frying pan of hot air reworking tools for anyone on a budget. It’s a bit slower and considerably more bulky, but those are some mighty insignificant complaints considering the $200 price difference between this and your other hot air options.
          I haven’t found anything I can’t rework with this yet, and I expect I won’t. At the same time, it doesn’t seem capable of burning a board as far as I can tell. Given the $10 price tag, I think I’d say it’s perfect for a beginner, as well as anyone else too. The only thing I wouldn’t want to do with it is a lot of work at once.
          For a beginner trying this out, just turn it on and blast it at your part at point blank range. Not more than a minute later you’ll have molten solder. Any further instruction just wouldn’t be necessary with this guy.
          TLDR: It’s a fool proof $10 hot air rework tool. Buy it.

          • Sorry to ask…. Blast it the part directly, or underside of the PCB as the previous commented suggested? Does it ever make a difference?

            • There are numerous tutorials for this, but the short answer is: slow even heat spread from the top. If it’s a bigger component, heat from underneath. Move the heat around and don’t let it sit on one spot for too long. Think of ironing a shirt…

  • I see there are no “related items” to link below. I think it’s time you started selling a Sparkfun Fire Extinguishers (the Spark-X). Perhaps solarbotics knows a good manufacturer for that one. I guess it could just be a red box of baking soda or a sparkfun can of compressed air. Yeah, compressed air :) It has almost as many uses as duct tape.

  • Now that’s a manual worth reading!

  • “Imagine if Chuck Norris roundhouse kicked a cloned Chuck Norris, what would happen?"
    Is anyone else thinking that this would cause a rip in the space-time continuum???
    @applekid im sure it will be ok as long as you dont mind creme brulee with a little burnt plastic after taste
    @blackrifle im with you….nice looking product but im a little skeptical on quality v.s. price

    • My first thought that yes, the universe would end or there would be a rip in the space time continuum or that thy would fight forever as no one would win. Well, i guess Chuck Norris would win but that’s not much help. Now i wish i waited for my free day order another week…
      Though one of the best product manuals i have read. Too bad im not supposed to use it to heat food…

    • We haven’t had one for very long yet, but it really works well. It does what it’s supposed to do. Will it last 10 years? We don’t know. But it’s a great unit.

  • If I buy one I won’t have to borrow my wife’s or my daughter’s air dryers anymore to shrink heat shrink tubing. (Wonder if it will also dry hair). You can also use it to dry paint (that would make if FUN to watch paint dry).

  • How warm does the handle get with use?

    • it’s not too bad. the end of it and the plastic guard gets warm, but it’s pretty comfortable to use for extended periods of time. oh yeah, and it’s $10!

      • Fantastic, even if you said it gets hotter than hell after fifteen minutes of use. It is still only ten bucks! Probably going to get one on the next order.

  • Except for the fact that you referred to the non-XL and 2/3 as awesome Heaterizer 2000 in the manual, that manual must be the single most compelling reason for me to buy this thing.

  • Ditto on the instruction manual, unfortunately I was drinking “something” at the time…someone owes me a keyboard and needs to clean my monitor.
    Any idea on the life expectancy of this thing? Have been wanting a heat gun for some time, but they are always more expensive than this.

    • As far as I can tell, we rarely get E-mails about these, and we have been selling them for 2 years +.


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