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Description: Have you ever wanted to control the flow of a liquid using your computer or microcontroller, but didn't know how? Well, here's how: The 12V solenoid controlled fluid valve. Simply connect a fluid source to the 3/4" threaded inlet and it will interrupt the flow until 12V is applied to the fast-on connectors on the solenoid.

Note: This is not a gravity-feed solenoid. This means that you will need enough water pressure to fully open the valve. Check the datasheet below for exact details. It operates at a minimum of around 3 PSI, allowing around 3 L/min of flow. Although the datasheet shows the valve working at 220 VAC, it's actually 12 VDC. Our 350 GPH pump does not have enough pressure for this valve. A garden hose or other pressurized system should work just fine.


Comments 42 comments

  • The datasheet solenoid specifications don’t match this part.
    Here’s are the real measurements:
    The coil DC resistance is approximately 39 ohms.
    The operating current is about 300 mA at 12VDC, and it will take it continuously without overheating.
    The connector TPI on both sides of the device are the same, at about 13.5 (GHT is 11.5 TPI).
    The pipe connectors are not GHT (garden hose thread); they are standard ¾" PVC type pipe thread that you can find at home supply and plumbing stores. An adapter to convert to GHT is about $1.50 at Home Depot.
    This is a pilot assisted diaphragm valve, which means that it has a distinct input and output (it’s not a bidirectional valve). There’s a screen filter on the input side. The tabs that jut out are for mounting the solenoid; they are on the input side and have metric threaded metal nuts embedded in them.

  • what is the MAX pressure for this valve?

  • Can this thing be trusted to stay shut off if unattended? I’d like to set up an automatic irrigation control, but I’m paranoid about a valve like this failing and losing megagallons of water before it’s shut off.

  • I had read someone using this valve with Arduino.
    It is rated for outdoor and runs @ 24v I believe.

  • I’m a little curious why this valve has external threads. Every other solenoid valve in existence in the USA uses female NPT threads because the pipes are all male… I mean I’m sure I can find adapters but it’s not industry standard…

  • Does anyone know of a reputable alternative for a cheap gravity-fed solenoid?

  • I am wondering if it will work with vacuum as long as the inlet and outlet are correct.

    A simple test would be hold a hose full of water 7 feet up to get 3 psi vacuum.

    I need this valve to let my pool solar panels on my roof drain so they don’t freeze.

  • The data sheet does not have the mounting measurements. What is the spec’d distance between the mounting holes and the thread?

  • what is response time of this valve?

  • Need a little help with these: I’m trying to find a reducer to get the thread down to ¼" for rigid poly tubing. Anybody know where to find such an adapter?

  • I don’t understand something… You stated that this valve needs 3 PSI or about 3L/min to open the valve, and that your 350 GPH pump is not enough but 350 gallon per hour is about 22 liter per minute US. That is way over the 3 liter per minute or 50 gallons per hour US… I’m having hard time to believe that the pump will do 350 GPH. Are you sure of the data? Did you actually try the pump with this valve?

    • The pump throws quite a bit of water, but at very low head (lift). It is high volume but low pressure, and this valve needs a bit of pressure behind it to maintain the seal.

  • Does it open and close by just pulsing it 12v’s or do you need a h bridge to reverse the polarity like a latching solenoid? If it just open and close this would be awesome… I have a store bought device but stuck on trying to h bridge it.

  • wondering about this solenoid for brewing as well, is say max temp is 75, which is below strike temp, also wondering if it’s food safe at those temperatures.

    • As much fun as it would be to try to use this for brewing, this particular valve is designed to only be used with water, and within a temperature range of 0-75 degrees C. You could try creating your own set up for this, but I would recommend getting a valve designed specifically for brewing (after all, no one wants funny tasting brews due to plastic valves).

  • what is its maximum operating frequency (on/off)?

  • Does anyone know if it is possible to control the flow rate vs just on or off?

  • will this work for air?

  • I would like to use this on my ROV for controlling air and water flow in the ballast tanks, would it be possible to waterproof this valve easily?

  • Are there any max time, due how long it can be energized? Im thinking about using it for a lock mechanism, so it will be energized for longer periods during weekends and holidays. Or would it be better to “invert” it so lock is open when its energized?

  • any chance on a small version of this for very small apps?
    Drip control type-valve perhaps?
    And also maybe a 5v version?

  • Well, looking at the pictures, it definatly has no taper to the thread, like NPT specifies, but also looks like the thread is too long to be a ¾" hose thread….I suspect this actually IS a BSPP (British Standard Pipe thread Paralell) as opposed to a BSPT (British Standard Pipe thread Tapered). The BSP standard does have imperial sizes (¾" for instance); if you screw a BSPP into a standard NPT fitting, it WILL leak (I have experienced this in the past)–it is meant to be used against a compresion gasket, like an o-ring.
    Ok–enough plumbing geek for one day. :)

    • There is no specific length of “hose threads” - and it (long) is irrelevant as it is NOT tapered. Only issue would be if they were too SHORT!
      A female garden hose connector will work fine with properly cut ¾" NPT threads. The only reason it would leak is if the pipe is not cut square on the end (which is NOT an issue with a NPT fitting) such that the gasket can’t seal against the end of the pipe. So…if a piece of pipe or nipple is cut, reamed, and threaded correctly all on the threading machine, it should work fine - I have several such connections.

  • I wonder if this one would turn on/off with enough precision to do something like in that water display video (which is aweseome!)

  • Wonder if the threads on this would match a standard garden hose. Anybody know? just curious.

  • Would this work to control air pressure, do ya think?

    • It should. Your local hardware store will have something very similar to this for use as a sprinkler system control and they are about $10. I have used two of them to make pneumatic spud guns. However, one of them leaks so you have to shoot fast.
      My only concern is that these valves seem to be much smaller (with the same ¾ in/out) as the sprinkler ones and may not use the same diaphragm design. (maybe a good thing for air?)

      • YES! I used the same kind of valve for my gun. It sounded like an angry elephant shooting a potato out of it’s nose when fired.
        As irresponsible teens, we once shot a D battery at least a 100 yards through the woods, and you could see tree limbs snapping in half as it flew through the forest.

  • I used one like this once… it sux =x
    at least the ones I used =x
    it’s better to use a pump, not a valve…

  • Does this unit have a water temperature maximum rating?

  • Not only does the spec sheet say 220V for the coil, it also says ‘½"BSP inlet and 12mm outlet’, not ¾", which is it?

    • Sorry for the confusion, it is ¾" NPT (not BSP)

      • That doesn’t look like an NPT thread; it appears to be a hose thread. An NPT thread is tapered while a hose thread is not.
        For an example you’d be familiar with, your washing machine connects to your plumbing with a hose thread. If you tried connecting it to an NPT thread it’d just leak.

      • Thanks for the quick clarification.

  • anyone know the coil resistance of these, datasheet is useless.

    • For the AQT15SP the datasheet specifies “Resistance Coil: 4.75K Ohm +/- .25K (25C)” on page 3. I think that’s the value you’re looking for?

      • I am very skeptical of this resistance value, mostly because right above it it says the voltage is 220ACV. I bet the actual resistance is much lower.
        Perhaps someone at Sparkfun could slap an ohm-meter on it and let us know?

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