Here is a very simple breadboard power supply kit that takes power from a DC wall wart and outputs a selectable 5V or 3.3V regulated voltage. The .1" headers are mounted on the bottom of the PCB for simple insertion into a breadboard. Pins labeled VCC and GND plug directly into the power lines. The lone pair of pins have no electrical connection but help support the PCB.
There are two pins available within the barrel jack footprint. Any stripped +/- DC supply can be connected instead of the barrel connector. Board has both an On/Off switch and a voltage select switch (3.3V/5V).
Comes as a bag of parts kit and is easily assembled if you can follow the silkscreen indicators and have beginning experience with a soldering iron. You will need to read the resistor bands or use a multimeter to determine the resistor sizes.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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Based on 18 ratings:
5 of 5 found this helpful:
This is a very convenient unit for powering components on a bread board without burning out the PS on the Arduino. An ON/OFF switch and a 3.3/5V switch make it very versatile. And the power status LED let's you know right away whether the board is live or if it's safe to connect/disconnect parts. However, the product description does not include the max current the board will support. Mention is made of the "TO-220 Voltage Regulator (LM317 1.5A max current)" which led me to believe I was getting a 1.5A power supply. But the board as a PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) fuse that, according to the schematic, limits the current to 500mA and, according to the Sparkfun page for the component, COM-08357, limits the current to 250mA. I'm thinking of just shorting out the PTC fuse with either a wire or a replaceable fuse holder with a 1 to 1.5A fuse in it, but I haven't researched this yet. In particular, it is not clear from the description if all the components can handle 1.5A or if it's just the LM317 regulator.
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Works great so far!
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Been playing around with a Pickit 3 for a while, always have programming issues. Ran a voltmeter across the powers and discovered Pickit 3 doesn't always supply the best voltages. Bought this little guy, shipping was a bit pricey for being USPS, especially for a kit and coming from Colorado to Nebraska. After assembly and a couple more hours of banging head on table, I was finally able to program my PICs without problems. So proud of myself!
2 of 2 found this helpful:
Works as advertised. Easy to assemble. Was missing the 330 Ohm resistors and one switch was faulty so I could only get 5V out of it.
1 of 2 found this helpful:
Modify the lone pair of pins that have no connection (NC)to have a direct connection to the DC from the wall wart.
Add another product that has the exact part count except for the circuit board and the switches.
I would then order the first for breadboarding and the second for any projects that I build after that.
Very easy to put together and power your project. Missed being 5 stars by not having the parts labeled in the bag (at least for the educational aspect of it) and if there was a way to tap into both 3.3 and 5v with an extra set of headers before the regulator would make it a solid 5 stars.
That PSU has the most stable voltage output I have ever seen. Also easy to build.
I like the fact that it comes un-assembled. I just needed the regulator portion of the circuit, not the input jack or the output pins, or even the switches. I can use those parts on another project. Perfect!
I get 3.3 volts no matter where the switch is. Also, when I try to power something the light starts flickering
Sorry to hear you're having trouble! Please contact our technical assistance team and they will be happy to help you with this.
Easy enough to assemble, and works fine. But with a 15V supply the regulator gets worryingly hot, even when lightly loaded. I know the LM317 regulator has built-in thermal protection, but I'd feel better (and pay more) if SparkFun had included a simple heat sink.
Also: I wish they had included a takeoff pad for the raw, unregulated input. You can tap it from one of the points underneath the barrel jack, but it's not an ideal solution.
Hello, and thanks for the feedback! If you can, lowering your input voltage will help a lot with the heat you're seeing with 7 to 9 volts being ideal. If you can't lower your input voltage, we do have a heatsink that will fit. Check out our part number PRT-14340 for that. If you have any small bits of scrap aluminum, you might try one of those too.
For whatever reason, the breadboard I usually use has one more pin of spacing between the rails and the main board area, so I can only put in one of the two "NC" pins. Also, I'd sort of prefer one that could work off of 5V; this one needs 6-12V, but most of my power supplies are 5V. On the other hand, it works fine and does what it's supposed to do. Note the 250mA current limit; the 1.5A current listed for the voltage regulator doesn't matter much with a (resettable) fuse in the way. Pretty straightforward. All the parts have suitable labels on them one way or another, except you have to guess that the PTC is the thing with the weird squiggly legs.
Does what it's supposed to do, but I could imagine an improved design. (I'd probably suggest doing maybe a 4-pin slot for the "NC" pins, and just letting people pick where to put it, maybe?)
As a newbie to electronics, I figured this would be a good introductory project to cut my teeth on. I've had several cheap breadboard power supplies die on me for various reasons, so I was looking forward to something I could craft myself and could use for future projects.
I'd give 4 and 1/2 stars if I could. The documentation was useful, although I built it out of the recommended order. I started with the center of the board with the three resistors and worked my way outward.
The only issue I encountered was with the LED.
After assembly, I plugged in a wall wart to the DC jack and was disappointed when the power LED did not light up. I tested the wall wart, inspected my soldered connections under magnification, and touched up any that I thought were dodgy, to no effect. I tested a few areas on the board and was happy to see the voltage output was within spec. Testing the LED solder joints showed the correct voltage for the setting on the switch.
I stepped away, and when I came back, I tried the wall wart once again. This time the LED lit up but very faintly. I thought I perhaps installed a resistor in an incorrect position, but after checking my work and verifying that the components were installed correctly, I grabbed an LED out of my parts bin and swapped it out. This time I was greeted with a bright output from the new LED.
Project was a pleasure to assemble, clear labeling in the documentation made part identification a breeze. Aside from a bunk LED, I had no issues completing the build. I look forward to assembling other kits like this in the future.
Sorry about that problematic LED. Glad you enjoyed the product otherwise. If you wanted to fill out a return ticket we can get that replaced if you like: https://www.sparkfun.com/returns
Super easy to assemble and provides either 3.3V or 5V to the power rails on your bread board. You'll lose a bit of breadboard real estate in order to properly support the module, but it's pretty easy to deal with. Breadboards are modular!
I wanted something to do to brush up on my soldering before attempting to solder all the header pins to my ESP32-S2 Thing Plus, this was good practice and it worked perfectly first time.
It was easy to assemble and does what it is designed to do.
more time spent playing with circuits, less time worrying about power conditioning!
Gee, I haven't soldered a circuit board for over 25 years (I started when I was 3 yrs old, lol...) but this was easy enough. The 1/16W resistors are virtually impossible to decode, so you might want a multi-meter to be sure which are which. I would suggest to not solder the parts in their order though -- go from smallest (the resistors) to the bigger parts. I used little pieces of painter tape (the blue stuff, masking tape would work too) to keep the parts in place on the board while I soldered them. Another tip, do the header pins last -- plug the pins into an actual breadboard in place, put something small as a spacer under the other side of the board to make it level, then tape it down solidly to the breadboard, then solder the pins. I built 2 and both worked presto whizzo.