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Description: Here is a very simple breadboard power supply kit that takes power from a DC wall wart and outputs a selectable 5V or 3.3V regulated voltage. The .1" headers are mounted on the bottom of the PCB for simple insertion into a breadboard. Pins labeled VCC and GND plug directly into the power lines. The lone pair of pins have no electrical connection but help support the PCB.
There are two pins available within the barrel jack footprint. Any stripped +/- DC supply can be connected instead of the barrel connector. Board has both an On/Off switch and a voltage select switch (3.3V/5V).
Comes as a bag of parts kit and is easily assembled if you can follow the silkscreen indicators and have beginning experience with a soldering iron. You will need to read the resistor bands or use a multimeter to determine the resistor sizes.
Based on 10 ratings:
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Works as advertised. Easy to assemble. Was missing the 330 Ohm resistors and one switch was faulty so I could only get 5V out of it.
Modify the lone pair of pins that have no connection (NC)to have a direct connection to the DC from the wall wart.
Add another product that has the exact part count except for the circuit board and the switches.
I would then order the first for breadboarding and the second for any projects that I build after that.
Works great so far!
more time spent playing with circuits, less time worrying about power conditioning!
This is a very convenient unit for powering components on a bread board without burning out the PS on the Arduino. An ON/OFF switch and a 3.3/5V switch make it very versatile. And the power status LED let’s you know right away whether the board is live or if it’s safe to connect/disconnect parts. However, the product description does not include the max current the board will support. Mention is made of the “TO-220 Voltage Regulator (LM317 1.5A max current)” which led me to believe I was getting a 1.5A power supply. But the board as a PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) fuse that, according to the schematic, limits the current to 500mA and, according to the Sparkfun page for the component, COM-08357, limits the current to 250mA. I’m thinking of just shorting out the PTC fuse with either a wire or a replaceable fuse holder with a 1 to 1.5A fuse in it, but I haven’t researched this yet. In particular, it is not clear from the description if all the components can handle 1.5A or if it’s just the LM317 regulator.
Gee, I haven’t soldered a circuit board for over 25 years (I started when I was 3 yrs old, lol…) but this was easy enough. The 1/16W resistors are virtually impossible to decode, so you might want a multi-meter to be sure which are which. I would suggest to not solder the parts in their order though – go from smallest (the resistors) to the bigger parts. I used little pieces of painter tape (the blue stuff, masking tape would work too) to keep the parts in place on the board while I soldered them. Another tip, do the header pins last – plug the pins into an actual breadboard in place, put something small as a spacer under the other side of the board to make it level, then tape it down solidly to the breadboard, then solder the pins. I built 2 and both worked presto whizzo.
It was easy to assemble and does what it is designed to do.
Been playing around with a Pickit 3 for a while, always have programming issues. Ran a voltmeter across the powers and discovered Pickit 3 doesn’t always supply the best voltages. Bought this little guy, shipping was a bit pricey for being USPS, especially for a kit and coming from Colorado to Nebraska. After assembly and a couple more hours of banging head on table, I was finally able to program my PICs without problems. So proud of myself!
Super easy to assemble and provides either 3.3V or 5V to the power rails on your bread board. You’ll lose a bit of breadboard real estate in order to properly support the module, but it’s pretty easy to deal with. Breadboards are modular!