Here is a very simple breadboard power supply kit that takes power from a DC wall wart and outputs a selectable 5V or 3.3V regulated voltage. The .1" headers are mounted on the bottom of the PCB for simple insertion into a breadboard. Pins labeled VCC and GND plug directly into the power lines. The lone pair of pins have no electrical connection but help support the PCB.
There are two pins available within the barrel jack footprint. Any stripped +/- DC supply can be connected instead of the barrel connector. Board has both an On/Off switch and a voltage select switch (3.3V/5V).
Comes as a bag of parts kit and is easily assembled if you can follow the silkscreen indicators and have beginning experience with a soldering iron. You will need to read the resistor bands or use a multimeter to determine the resistor sizes.
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Skill Level: Rookie - The number of pins increases, and you will have to determine polarity of components and some of the components might be a bit trickier or close together. You might need solder wick or flux.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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Based on 15 ratings:
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Works as advertised. Easy to assemble. Was missing the 330 Ohm resistors and one switch was faulty so I could only get 5V out of it.
3 of 3 found this helpful:
This is a very convenient unit for powering components on a bread board without burning out the PS on the Arduino. An ON/OFF switch and a 3.3/5V switch make it very versatile. And the power status LED let’s you know right away whether the board is live or if it’s safe to connect/disconnect parts. However, the product description does not include the max current the board will support. Mention is made of the “TO-220 Voltage Regulator (LM317 1.5A max current)” which led me to believe I was getting a 1.5A power supply. But the board as a PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) fuse that, according to the schematic, limits the current to 500mA and, according to the Sparkfun page for the component, COM-08357, limits the current to 250mA. I’m thinking of just shorting out the PTC fuse with either a wire or a replaceable fuse holder with a 1 to 1.5A fuse in it, but I haven’t researched this yet. In particular, it is not clear from the description if all the components can handle 1.5A or if it’s just the LM317 regulator.
Works great so far!
more time spent playing with circuits, less time worrying about power conditioning!
Been playing around with a Pickit 3 for a while, always have programming issues. Ran a voltmeter across the powers and discovered Pickit 3 doesn’t always supply the best voltages. Bought this little guy, shipping was a bit pricey for being USPS, especially for a kit and coming from Colorado to Nebraska. After assembly and a couple more hours of banging head on table, I was finally able to program my PICs without problems. So proud of myself!
Modify the lone pair of pins that have no connection (NC)to have a direct connection to the DC from the wall wart.
Add another product that has the exact part count except for the circuit board and the switches.
I would then order the first for breadboarding and the second for any projects that I build after that.
Gee, I haven’t soldered a circuit board for over 25 years (I started when I was 3 yrs old, lol…) but this was easy enough. The 1/16W resistors are virtually impossible to decode, so you might want a multi-meter to be sure which are which. I would suggest to not solder the parts in their order though – go from smallest (the resistors) to the bigger parts. I used little pieces of painter tape (the blue stuff, masking tape would work too) to keep the parts in place on the board while I soldered them. Another tip, do the header pins last – plug the pins into an actual breadboard in place, put something small as a spacer under the other side of the board to make it level, then tape it down solidly to the breadboard, then solder the pins. I built 2 and both worked presto whizzo.
Very easy to put together and power your project. Missed being 5 stars by not having the parts labeled in the bag (at least for the educational aspect of it) and if there was a way to tap into both 3.3 and 5v with an extra set of headers before the regulator would make it a solid 5 stars.
That PSU has the most stable voltage output I have ever seen. Also easy to build.
I like the fact that it comes un-assembled. I just needed the regulator portion of the circuit, not the input jack or the output pins, or even the switches. I can use those parts on another project. Perfect!
I get 3.3 volts no matter where the switch is. Also, when I try to power something the light starts flickering
Sorry to hear you’re having trouble! Please contact our [technical assistance team](https://www.sparkfun.com/technical_assistance and they will be happy to help you with this.
Super easy to assemble and provides either 3.3V or 5V to the power rails on your bread board. You’ll lose a bit of breadboard real estate in order to properly support the module, but it’s pretty easy to deal with. Breadboards are modular!
Easy enough to assemble, and works fine. But with a 15V supply the regulator gets worryingly hot, even when lightly loaded. I know the LM317 regulator has built-in thermal protection, but I’d feel better (and pay more) if SparkFun had included a simple heat sink.
Also: I wish they had included a takeoff pad for the raw, unregulated input. You can tap it from one of the points underneath the barrel jack, but it’s not an ideal solution.
Hello, and thanks for the feedback! If you can, lowering your input voltage will help a lot with the heat you’re seeing with 7 to 9 volts being ideal. If you can’t lower your input voltage, we do have a heatsink that will fit. Check out our part number PRT-14340 for that. If you have any small bits of scrap aluminum, you might try one of those too.
It was easy to assemble and does what it is designed to do.