This is a simple, but very powerful stepper motor with a 4-wire cable attached.
This is a Bipolar Motor.
You can find the “Torque vs Speed Curves” here => https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0jwgLkjMWzDa0FieUNKNWZIeU4xcDNSTDRua0NpVmUzUHNN .
The Actobotics Stepper Motor Mount - NEMA 17 [ https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12987 ] is compatible with the Stepper Motor with Cable. I was able to use 4x “M3 x 6mm x 0.5mm mounting screws” included in the Actobotics stepper motor mount to attach it to the Stepper motor with Cable. The mounting hole pattern on the Stepper Motor with Cable uses the NEMA 17’s hole pattern.
Looks like the maximum stepper motor speed is about 240 RPM if you use it with an Arduino microcontroller and the EasyDriver. Check here for the example code that was used to test the stepper motor => https://github.com/bboyho/EasyDriver/blob/master/Firmware/Arduino/EasyDriver_StepperMotorWithCable/EasyDriver_StepperMotorWithCable.ino .
The number of steps for a full revolution looks to be about 1600 microsteps since the stepper motor with cable has a step angle of 1.8 degrees (…360/1.8 = 200 step stepper ) and the EasyDriver has a range of 8 microsteps for a full step.
This skill concerns mechanical and robotics knowledge. You may need to know how mechanical parts interact, how motors work, or how to use motor drivers and controllers.
Skill Level: Experienced - Your experiences should include working with stepper motors and feedback system. You may need to understand how encoders and more complex control systems work.
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Whether it's for assembling a kit, hacking an enclosure, or creating your own parts; the DIY skill is all about knowing how to use tools and the techniques associated with them.
Skill Level: Noob - Basic assembly is required. You may need to provide your own basic tools like a screwdriver, hammer or scissors. Power tools or custom parts are not required. Instructions will be included and easy to follow. Sewing may be required, but only with included patterns.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Competent - You will be required to reference a datasheet or schematic to know how to use a component. Your knowledge of a datasheet will only require basic features like power requirements, pinouts, or communications type. Also, you may need a power supply that?s greater than 12V or more than 1A worth of current.
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Based on 15 ratings:
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Very nice product, works as described, would be even greater if it had a universal mounting hub included…
5 of 5 found this helpful:
I own three of these motors, and use them for video production, microphotography (controlling the positioning of equipment), and robotics projects. They seem reliable, have enough torque for all of my needs (so far), and can be nicely driven either by H-bridge chips like the L293D, or by more feature-rich motor drivers like the EasyDriver.
But as I just discovered, working with SLF radio frequency, which is what you are generating when switching these motors (and all steppers) at typical speeds, is not always carefree. The RFI/EMI produced can interfere with sensitive input pins on microcontrollers, and in my case, an IR receiver module (Vishay TSOP38238). The solution is pretty easy, though - if a part is being influenced by EMI, shield it by surrounding it with grounded conductive material. You can buy shielding, or make your own. I am shielding my IR receiver module by placing it on a piece of PCB with a large ground plane that sits between the IR receiver and the stepper controller, output traces, wiring, and motor.
Another thing I like about this motor, which is perhaps a little odd, is the very long cable. I usually only need half the length. I cut it in half and braid it. But the other half I cut off? It makes excellent stranded hook-up wire! So hey, bonus hook-up wire :)
For hooking this motor up to projects in a reversible but still dependable manner, I recommend 4-pin mini XLR plugs and jacks. They can be pricey but are worth it because accidentally disconnecting a running motor while attached to a controller can destroy the controller. I have also used S-video (4-pin mini DIN) connectors in the past, but after trying mini XLR, I found it to be a far superior solution.
Last thing to note - you can dissemble these motors to see how they work, and put them back together easily. Once opened up, you just have to tug on the rotor a bit because there are fairly strong magnets in there. You can also reverse the axle so it comes out the other side - I had to do that for one project to get the motor mount where I wanted it.
3 of 4 found this helpful:
This makes a great low RPM generator for windmill , waterwheel science fair projects .. puts out 6 Volts AC at about 70 RPM which will power 5 V. LED’s.
1 of 3 found this helpful:
Bought this motor for a wind turbine (my university’s senior project). Ran it with a 3D printed 3-bladed turbine, with a NACA 2410 airfoil, 5.25" span and 1" chord with a 0.45" hub (so the inner radius of the blade is 0.45" and the outer radius is 5.7").
Test setup used a 9.65k ohm resistor connected to two rectifier bridges (one for each output) with 0.32V forward loss schottky diodes and 1000uF electrolytic capacitors from DigiKey.
At 6 m/s freestream velocity, turbine spun at ~460 rpm and motor produced 31V. At 9.2 m/s, ~985rpm and 61V. At 11.9 m/s, ~1420 rpm and 70.6V.
P=V2/R, so power at the three speeds was 0.010A, 0.385A, and 0.517A.
We also used the cheap circular stepper motor from sparkfun and it only produced 0.030A at 12 m/s and 1450 rpm.
EDIT: In an earlier review, I incorrectly assumed that the “friction” seen with this motor was due to the magnet rubbing against the outer walls. Actually, this “friction” was the detent torque - seen when the wires were shorted together. When used as a generator, the load (resistance) across the wires will determine the amount of detent when you try to spin the turbine.
A previous review wanted a universal mounting hub - we used SparkFun’s 5mm to ¼" shaft coupler to mount our blades, which could also be used with a 3mm to ¼" shaft coupler for other motors.
0 of 3 found this helpful:
i buy four parts, while 2 of them have problem with spring force and this stall the rotor when try to rotate it by hand
i fix it no big deal
Didn’t have much trouble at all getting this thing up and running with an Arduino Uno and a TI SN754410 H-Bridge.
Used to drive a power focuser on a telescope. Plenty of torque and robust. Trial and error methods mean errors - no problem for this motor.
It is a surprisingly strong and simple motor. I used the TB6612FNG with a 12 V wall wart and it started right up!
I’m the sure the motor works great but it’s a NEMA 16 motor mount…..they don’t sell NEMA 16 motor mounts and i’m having a very difficult time find one (anywhere).
I wish we had a motor mount too. When I need to mount these, I have used a plate that I drill to match the mounting holes. Not an off the shelf solution I know. But it might help someone. Thanks
I’m making a diy eggbot/spherebot and I’m driving it with the Easy Driver. Not quite finished with the project yet but so far it’s working very well.
This is a great stepper motor! It has plenty of torque but can also be driven to pretty high speeds before it starts to skip. I’m personally using it in a self-balancing robot, though I plan to buy another to try to build a little smart lock.
Connectors: These just come with long stranded wires—there are no connectors. I would highly recommend using a JST or XLR (like RobotCamera recommended) to connect these. You can even solder a 4-pin JST to your board (like an EasyDriver) to ensure that you always hook up the motor correctly, and that it doesn’t come disconnected while the driving circuit is running (which can destroy your circuit). I think Sparkfun sells JSTs labelled as “polarized connectors” but you can easily find huge packs of JST connectors ready-to-crimp. Then, buy some cable braid so that your cables don’t go spaghetti all over your build.
Side note: I kind of wish that they just had a JST jack on their side instead of the wires. That’s how my 3D printer’s steppers are connected, but this works fine too.
Mounting: These don’t seem to be easily mountable from the back—only the front. I haven’t tried, but I think removing the back screws would result in the motor housing coming apart, which isn’t great for mounting. The fact that these are front mount only is just a little caveat to note. They’re very sturdy regardless of how you mount them.
As a hobbyist I am not stressing the motor but it seems to work fine. I have written code to ramp up/down to meet my needs.