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Description: This is the new Arduino Uno R3. In addition to all the features of the previous board, the Uno now uses an ATmega16U2 instead of the 8U2 found on the Uno (or the FTDI found on previous generations). This allows for faster transfer rates and more memory. No drivers needed for Linux or Mac (inf file for Windows is needed and included in the Arduino IDE), and the ability to have the Uno show up as a keyboard, mouse, joystick, etc.

The Uno R3 also adds SDA and SCL pins next to the AREF. In addition, there are two new pins placed near the RESET pin. One is the IOREF that allow the shields to adapt to the voltage provided from the board. The other is a not connected and is reserved for future purposes. The Uno R3 works with all existing shields but can adapt to new shields which use these additional pins.

Arduino is an open-source physical computing platform based on a simple i/o board and a development environment that implements the Processing/Wiring language. Arduino can be used to develop stand-alone interactive objects or can be connected to software on your computer (e.g. Flash, Processing, MaxMSP). The open-source IDE can be downloaded for free (currently for Mac OS X, Windows, and Linux).

Note: The Arduino Uno R3 requires the Arduino 1.0 drivers folder in order to install properly on some computers. We have tested and confirmed that the R3 can be programmed in older versions of the IDE. However, the first time using the R3 on a new computer, you will need to have Arduino 1.0 installed on that machine.  If you are interested in reading more about the changes to the IDE, check out the official Arduino 1.0 Release notes!

Not sure which Arduino or Arduino-compatible board is right for you? Check out our Arduino Buying Guide!

Features:

  • ATmega328 microcontroller
  • Input voltage - 7-12V
  • 14 Digital I/O Pins (6 PWM outputs)
  • 6 Analog Inputs
  • 32k Flash Memory
  • 16Mhz Clock Speed

Documents:

Comments 113 comments

  • Does it come with arduino board?

    • Hi! Yes, this is the Arduino Uno R3 board, so it comes with the Atmega328 microcontroller. Email us at techsupport @ sparkfun.com if you have anymore questions! Our Arduino Buying Guide has a lot of helpful information on it too. :)

  • It might be good to note all the changes in this board from Rev. 2.

    1. The added pins are a pretty huge change - Future shields which use these pins won’t be compatible with existing Arduinos. The male pins on the shield above ‘reset’ (which is currently on a 6-pin header) would interfere with the bulk power supply caps.
    2. Reset button moved from center of board to corner near USB connector. This is great; makes it much easier to access with a shield on.
    3. Larger heatsinking copper area for the LM117 regulator
    4. Uses an Atmega16U2 instead of the Atmega8U2 on the previous version. Opens up more possibilities for USB apps!
    5. According to the images, untented vias (or at least the annular ring is uncovered) on the top side, making it slightly easier to solder wires to the PCB or short something out.
    6. An unknown component near the ICSP header - I’m guessing a diode - on the reset line? The schematic doesn’t show it, there’s no reference designator, and the “Eagle Files” .zip file is empty/corrupted (144 bytes means it’s really compressed).

    Which reminds me: Your “Eagle files” .zip file is corrupted.

    Also, I couldn’t get schematic diffs because your previous version pages don’t host the documentation, they point to the product pages on Arduino.cc, which have been updated. Could you find a little space on the Sparkfun servers to host those old revs?

      1. One could easily trim those pins off. It’s crude, but fixes the problem.
      2. Definitely an excellent, well thought out improvement.
      3. I don’t see any unmasked vias.
      4. That’s most likely an ESD protecting diode running from reset to 5V.
    • 6 An unknown component near the ICSP header – I’m guessing a diode – on the reset line?

      My quess it’s a zener to improve the reset circuit.

      • Nope, it’s a standard silicon diode: http://www.bourns.com/pdfs/CD1206_S01575.pdf

        Note: This information was not on the earlier schematics!

    • Update: The schematic can be extracted by running

      zip -FF arduino_Uno_Rev3_02-TH --out arduino_fixed
      

      on Linux, Mac, or in Cygwin, but this still results in a broken board file.

      Credit goes to Majenko (http://hacking.majenko.co.uk/) for the discovery; bump the thread on the forum (http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,80733.msg610998.html#new) to help promote it.

  • Will you be selling the ATmega16U2 by any chance? Would we be able to use our Sparkfun SMD Hotair station to remove and replace our ATmega8u2

    • I doubt it. If they did, everyone would clamor for the ATmega32U2 as well as the TQFP version. Sparkfun is a vendor of hard-to-find components to low-volume hobbyists, not an electronics distributor. If you want the ATmega16U2, use a distributor like Digikey or Mouser; it looks like several places have both the ATmega8/16/32U2 in stock in both the TQFP and VQFN packages (you want the latter for the Arduinos). They’re about $4 in singles.

      Remember, you’ll need an intact Arduino or ICSP programmer to flash the Arduino code into the U2.

  • Ugh, less than a month since I ordered my first Uno and now a new revision comes out.

    • How are you liking it so far? I know you didn’t get R3 but do you still like it? Are you new to microcontrollers?

  • Not the same a my original UNO R3. This IS a licensed, manufacture, but…

    • the depaneling was NOT as clean as the original. rough glass under the USB and Power connectors. small lump by ICSP header at 328p pin 1

    • mfg silkscreen junk on bottom by usb connector

    • lytics have slightly different markings

    • vreg has different markings/branding

    • RESET button label is in a much better location

    • board seems more green than the original

    • copper lettering under soldermask on bottom - by usb [03] on one and [06] on the other - panel locations?

    • female header pins are labeled - Lovely!

  • why buy the SMD verses the DIP model?

    • I don’t know! I have nearly worn out my DIP socket from using the UNO to program 328s for embedded and from removing the 328 to use UNO as a serial programmer. try that with the SMD. ;) On my original, I will replace the DIP socket with a ZIF socket. Shields won’t fit, but I have other R3s.

  • I’d like to see a new Arduino with a built in compiler. Add a switch that makes show up as mass storage device when plugged in, with the code the as the only .txt file. Then you could reprogram it from any computer without any extra software!

  • do you do shipping to malaysia?

  • Hi, does this come with the 5v power supply wall adaptor?

    • Hi! This does not come with the 5V power supply wall adaptor. I suggest getting the Wall Adapter Power Supply - 9VDC 650mA in our “Recommended products” list below. Wanted to add: You can have an external power supply of 5V, but if you have an external power supply less 7V the 5V pin may supply less than five volts as noted on the Arduino product page. :D

  • “and the ability to have the Uno show up as a keyboard, mouse, joystick, etc.” How does that feature work? I thought that was only on the Leonardo.

  • Hi! I’m just bought an UNO R3 and start playing with some MCU applications. At first, I want to start with creating some shields which would be handy. So, I begin my work with the Eagle files here i.e. deleting all the components and leaving the connectors intact However, the Eagle schematic and board files here are not consistent by default. Many components are from smartPrj.lib something that can’t be referenced to. How should I fix this consistency error? or where to find that smartPrj.lib? I’ve done some Googling but none works. Thanks!

  • does this include the usb cable?

    • nope, just the board. check below for USB cables, or search around your house, most people already have a few.

  • I visited the manufacturer’s site, and find that all the required software and documentation for the Uno are scattered around on various web pages.

    Is there perhaps a single place where I can download everything at once? In particular I would like an off-line source of documentation, rather than having to access it a page at a time on the internet.

  • trying to use the example code for joystickmouse and the joystick shield but it is saying that Mouse is only supported on the leonardo can someone help me and yes i am using the r3 board please reply to this so i get a notification thanks

  • USE P.O. R 30364

  • Are Microelectronica ‘'click boards’‘ (http://www.mikroe.com/click/) compatible with arduino ?

    • You should really check with Microelectronica for support of their boards, but from looking at the site, it looks like it depends on the individual click board. The main thing you need to keep your eyes open for is that voltage levels match up, and checking pin outs if you want to be able to plug them together. Otherwise you may just need to use jumper wires.

  • Having Major Trouble. Cannot install the drivers to download programs on a Win8 64bit computer. It finds them but refuses to install because they are not signed. Got the latest from ftdichip and will still not install even though the site says they are signed. I even downloaded their drivers as an *.exe program. http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm

    Son is fading fast. “I thought this was supposed to be fun dad.” Any guidance greatly appreciated…..

    • This board does not have an FTDI chip – they replaced that with another USB bridge (atmega16u2). Some details can be found here:

      http://learn.adafruit.com/arduino-tips-tricks-and-techniques/arduino-uno-faq

      From that link, it is indicated that Arduino started using their own USB vendor ID (VID), so the device will not be identified as nor work with anything related to FTDI.

      64-bit Windows has been a lot more picky about unsigned USB drivers than prior versions. While I haven’t done anything with Arduino yet, there are a few things I can suggest.

      1) Get Windows to disable device driver signature enforcement. Windows 8 apparently does this differently than before – it used to be that hitting F8 on boot would get to a menu that would allow this, but apparently now they have brought that control up into the OS. Have a look here:

      http://www.howtogeek.com/126016/three-ways-to-access-the-windows-8-boot-options-menu/

      Historically, when you disable the driver signature enforcement, Windows re-enables it on the next reboot. Not a great or permanent solution, but if you’re just trying to get something done, it may be an option.

      2) Try to coerce Windows into loading the driver. If you go into the device manager and tell it to load the driver, it may force you to browse to the location of the .inf file with the Arduino VID/PID (probably provided with whatever you installed for the kit). It may then allow you to use this if you suffer through enough warning dialogs first. This may work better under 32-bit than 64-bit (where I believe the enforcement is more severe). This might need to be done in conjunction with option #1 above.

      3) Windows is the only OS that requires a special driver file to use the new board (notwithstanding reports of OSX Mountain Lion above – not sure about that). You might be able to get an Ubuntu Linux on a USB flash drive that allows you to use the same tools without installing anything permanently on your PC. However, that is likely to have its own learning curve.

      4) Buy a USB Vendor ID for yourself ($5K), get the device driver professionally tested (~$400 just for Windows 8 64-bit based on my experience) and signed ($250). This is what Microsoft thinks you should do.

      I think that some combination of #1 and #2 will get you past this.

  • Can this control 5 servomotors? If so? How do you connect them?

    • You can control up to 12 servos on the Uno using the Servo library. Keep in mind though that you will need a separate power supply to drive the servos, as the Uno cannot provide that much current.

  • A full DXF drawing of arduino uno and mega can be found here: http://petrkout.com/electronics/arduino-uno-and-mega-dxf-drawings/

  • Hello, I would report you a new version of Arduino pinout diagram:

    http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,145531.0.html

    Hi, PighiXXX

  • Hi I would like to know if it is possible to connect a Proximity Sensor(Sharp GP2Y0A21YK IR or Maxbotix LV-EZ0) and a Arduino Wi-Fi Shield(DEV-11287) both in a Arduino R3 ? The sensor in the Arduino R3 and also the Wifi shield.

  • The Uno isnt showing the correct serial ports on Mountain Lion for Mac, what do I need to do to get the correct ports to show up?

  • When setting it up for Mountain Lion on Mac no serial ports besides bluetooth ports showed up. What do I need to do to get the appropriate serial ports to show up?

  • Just wondering: will the Uno be phased out in favour of the leonardo?

    • I doubt it. The Leo is only available in SMD. People like me enjoy being able to pull the chip if needed/wanted.

  • Can I power this with an 18V drill battery? if not what would I need to do so?

    • Ideally, you want to keep your power supply between 7-12v to prevent any damage to the board. The max rating for the Uno is 20v, but again, you want to stay away from this. Voltage regulation is going to be the key otherwise.

  • Hello! Is there any way that i can program a 93C46 ATMEL through an Arduino board?

  • Do I still need the FTDI cable/breakout board to upload a sketch? I did the breadboard version with no usb connection but could only upload via ICSP.

    • Got my answer when my new R3 Arduino(Delivered in 2 days standard from sparkfun!) was first powered up giving me the usb to serial port, flashed the Ping example and had no issues at all.

  • dimensions?

      • 75.14 x 53.51 x 15.08mm
      • 2.96 x 2.1 x 0.59in
      • 27.95g/0.98oz

      source: sky-probe.com

      Note that these dimensions include the USB socket. If you just want the board measurements, from the Eagle file: y = 53.34mm, x = 68.58mm

  • Any idea when this will be back in stock?

  • Does anybody have the brd for this that can be opened with Eagle v5.11? I can’t upgrade to Eagle 6.0 yet.

    • Anything specific you need it for? Exporting from v6 (export-board.ulp) and trying to get it into v5 seemed less than satisfactory.

      • Oh, that’s a thought… could you export a DXF? I need to incorporate all the features (board edges, mounting holes, pin locations) into a mechanical assembly. It would be nice to actually use the *.brd file, but for now, I just need mechanical features.

        • Export as DXF seems to have worked beautifully: http://www.filedropper.com/arduinounorev3-02-th

          An Eagle BRD file is more problematic. The board export ULP is a little twitchy as it is, and of course doesn’t export package information - so v5 complains and doesn’t place any pads. exp-project-lbr.ulp generates a library that v5 refuses to load, etc.

          While I’m sure there’s some other avenues one can explore there (I was hoping a quick Google search would turn up a ‘save as v5’ or an ULP for v5 to read v6’s XML files), I think that long-term you should look at an upgrade to v6 :)

          • Thanks, Kamiquasi! That works perfectly. Yeah, I think it’s time to upgrade, as we’re getting a lot more use out of Eagle these days. Thanks again for your help.

            • One more trick for you: EAGLE 6 files are now XML format text files (a good reason for upgrading) that are quite human-readable. If for example you just need the locations of the standoffs, you can probably find the parts and coordinates fairly easily in the .brd file itself.

              Also, if you’re not updating because you don’t want to affect an older paid installation, you can install the free version alongside the paid one without causing problems.

              • Yeah, but you’d probably want to write a proper parser for the rest :) Coordinates for package footprints are all relative to a master definition of that package, for example. Upgrading, even if it’s just grabbing the free copy, is definitely the path of least resistance.

  • Hi, I am new to arduino, Can any one tell me how to make Arduino Uno to communicate with Android device. I considered of having a ADK board from seeedstudio.com, since it costs more I am looking for other options. Please help out..

    Thank you. My e-mail id : mahanteshambali@gmail.com

    • I’d suggest using the IOIO board for any Android related development. It is much easier to use than the ADK, i.e. you only program in one environment and the code libraries you use are based on the Arduino template of writing code: setup and loop. Check the IOIO wiki here for more info.

    • Thank you very much for the reply. Since we are planning to release that as a product, we are planning to develop our own board. So we cannot use any standard available boards. So we were looking for the alternatives. And found out Uno can complete the required task.

      Actually there will be different sensors(fire,smoke,door,PIR) attached to Uno, and if any of them is triggered particular action is taken via the android device.

  • What is the official pronunciation for Arduino UNO? I have heard Arduino said many different ways. Is UNO said U - N - O or UNO?

    • To the best of my knowledge, it’s the Italian and Spanish word for “one”, and not an acronym. We pronounce it “oo-know” around here all the time.

      • Mike’s right on this one! The naming convention probably came from the fact that this board was released in 2011. The previous version, the duemilanove (translation from Italian is 2009), was released in 2009. Why they didn’t go with undici (11) is beyond me.

        • FYI: According to Arduino’s website, it was named “UNO” to mark the release of the Arduino 1.0 IDE and is Italian for “one” (Arduino roots are from Italy).

          (http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno)

  • Just a word of warning: the eagle files provided appear to be made in EAGLE 6, so any lower versions appear not to be able to open them.

    • Also: when I recieved mine, the top 10 pin header was shifted up by one pin, making it impossible to install a shield. Easy enough to fix, and I don’t blame QC for it: it was a very well hidden problem. The PnP that installed the headers probably just miss-alligned it when it inserted it.

      • Sorry to hear about this error! Good to hear you were able to fix it though. If you ever have that problem again, please feel free to contact us at techsupport at sparkfun dot com.

  • Is this the official Italy one? Probably i since it says Made in Italy on the back. Won’t matter, just curious.

  • Question, since I am not familiar with the arduino at all. Is the atmega dip preloaded with snything or can I just put in another atmega if I want to?

    • The ATMega comes with the Uno bootloader pre-installed on it. You could switch it out with a different ATmega chip, but the Uno will then not function in the same manner.

  • I’m looking at mating one of these to a GainSpan GS1011MIE, but the documentation seems vague and I’m not sure how they’d hook together. Has anyone done it, and how did it go? Are there other (clearer) options for getting an arduino to do 802.11 wifi? (I need range and reliability but not speed). Thanks!

  • Note that this item does not come with the USB A to B cable. Search for CAB-00512(also in the related items) if you require the cable as well.

  • I’m a little confused. I had planned on using this Uno to program ATMega128 chips. in the features list and photo it shows that it has an ATMega128, but in the description above it talks about an ATMega16u2. What am I missing here? Thanks.

    • It uses an ATmega328 AND an ATmega16U2. The 328 is for the main microcontroller and the other is for the USB interface.

  • I’m considering buying one of these, developing software, and then prying the processor out and putting it on a (very space-constrained) circuit board. What’s putting me off is the hate-mail at http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10524 - it sounds like the chip isn’t all that stable about booting when its on its own. Also, there’s no 16MHz crystal currently available for this processor here, which makes me wonder if this chip is sort of being abandoned, because it was a troublemaker.

    Can someone comment on stability and long term viability? This is a one-off project, but it has to be rock solid about booting up when power is applied. And I’m not one for patiently fussing with bootloaders and .hex files - I want to write C++ code, push a button, and see it running on the chip, 10 times out of 10. Am I better off with something else?

  • I’ve got a RGB LED lighting project I’m doing for a friend.

    This project involves the interior illumination of a show car (68 Tempest) with specific colors to compliment the interior color scheme.

    Requirements:

    • Lowest cost and/or easiest to implement solution
    • Cascade two previously selected colors around a loop consisting of daisy-chained digital RGB LED strips (probably two).
    • Must be powered from vehicle 12v supply

    I demonstrated to him how I had used an Arduino Uno R3 to program a BlinkM which in turn was used in stand-alone mode to drive an analog RGB LED strip with pre-programmed color changes, but he wants to cascade his color changes down the strips, hence the requirement for individually addressable LEDs.

    I don’t know if a BlinkM can be used to send cascading color changes down a digital RGB LED strip or whether an Arduino is necessary.

    I’m also not sure whether an Arduino can be programmed to start color cycling the LED strips immediately on power up. He wants it to start cycling as soon as he turns it on without having to do any preliminary settings.

    • An arduino will start running whatever code you’ve loaded on it on powerup. If cost is a concern, i’d abandon blinkm as fast as possible and just hook up some ws2801 or lpd8806 light strips to an arduino. Both chips have well documented example arduino code.

  • I wish the pins were labeled correctly, then I could use this in my real projects.

  • I ordered twelve of these for our PORPOISE Robotics program in the schools and have started working with 5 of them. 3 are working fine but 2 suddenly stopped working. They don’t get recognized by the Arduino IDE. The yellow LED at 13 goes on but there is no way to upload even the blink program. The back of one of them gets very hot, and the back of the other gets medium hot. It doesn’t seem to be the IC chip because we swapped out one to test it with a good one. Anybody else having these problems? Has me very concerned. Ideas?

  • Can anyone tell me the transfer data rate i can expect from a well developed aplication with UNO R3?

    Lets say i have a camera sending stream video to arduino, and arduino sending this data to a notebook/desktop all via usb cables or faster interfaces, even 11mbps wifi like DIY HYDROGEN.

    Can I expect at least 10mbps? Or its just stupid try to connect a webcam directly to arduino, instead of directly connect it to the notebook/desktop, and the desktop aplication control the webcam via whathever input data on arduino?

    • Serial data rates typically top out at 115200 bps, which isn’t fast enough for video. You might be able to do more with the other interfaces, but nothing in Arduino is designed for high-bandwidth processing (starting with the difficulty of connecting your camera to the Arduino’s USB port in host-mode). You’ll likely have better results connecting the camera directly to the PC, and having the Arduino handle your low-bandwidth sensors, UI controls, etc.

  • First timer here.

    Would it be possible to setup serial communications between this board and a PC?

    • Sure! The ATmega’s serial port goes through the USB connection, so it’s trivially easy to send data to and from a PC.

  • Can this Arduino be used for ISP programming? If so how?

  • Can this version be used to program a surface mount atmega328_AU, it seems the UNO R2 can not..

  • Hi!! I was very excited to buy an Arduino R3 board on Sparkfun (I also bought a cellular shield SM5100). They arrived yesterday!! I followed the arduino website instructions: I downloaded the IDE software; when I plugue the arduino board on my pc (windowns vista), the green led turns on and the ambar led blinks. Untill here, it is all right but it does not work. The arduino uno port instalation returned an error “code 10”. I tried to reinstall the driver but the same error occurs. When I open IDE software, in “tool”, the option “serial port” is unable to click. I chaged to other computer (also windows vista), changed the usb cable, I disabled my antivirus (norton), I followed the instructions of http://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=19931 and it does not work. I need help, plaese!! Thanks!!!

  • Wanted add the UNO R3 version matches with the R3 shield in awesome form. It finally does not rub the USB connector! The pins are much longer than most shields I have used in the past and it finally looks like the shields were designed to fit. The only problem I ran into was on the digital side, the extra pins are so close to the mounting hole that I was unable to use it with the size bolts that I normally use for my projects.

  • So this revision can still be used as an ISP to put code onto the 18 “Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHz” and the “atTiny” series chips?

    I just want to be sure, because it seems like every time I buy something, it turns out I need to buy something else to support it :)

    • I have not tried my UNO R3 as an ISP for the ATtiny85, but I tried one of my R1 UNO with the recent version of the Arduino software(Windows) - 1.0. It will not compile. I am positive the library only needs a simple update, but it was easier to use an older version of the software at the time. I would think the R3 will work just fine with the required capacitor as there are no changes to the board related. Keep your copy of 22 or the short lived 23 version of the Arduino software around if you don’t want to update the library. FYI - The drivers for the R3 come with the Arduino software version 1.0.

  • Arrived just in time for the holidays! Thank you Sparkfun :)

  • Does this version ship with the snazzy little folded box, hacker stickers and rubber feet or is it just tossed in a antistatic bag? Also, on Addafruit it says the board comes fully assembled. Isn’t that how the Arduino Uno, has always come?

    • I got snazzy box and hacker stickers. No rubber feet (would have been nice, but whatever). Also no anti-stat bag (again, whatever).

  • What is the purpose of the new I2C pins? According to the schematic, they are the same node as the original I2C pins. Is there a planned branch in the hardware where the A4 and A5 pins will no longer support I2C?

    Also, does anyone know of any example code for the keyboard emulation using the 16U2?

    • On the mega, the I2C pins have always been in a different place than on the uno; this revision will make it so they’re in the same spot.

  • With the addition of this, will SFE be carrying 10 pin stackable headers?

  • New header pins? Really? Maybe if future shields are going to be incompatible, someone could just fix the header spacing so that it is the standard 0.1 inches!!! And yes, I did try the “new” header pin format, and it does not work with the old arduino; the pins do interfere with the caps on the arduino. I suppose one could just cut them off, assuming that they are not used – but why have them if they are not used!? Stupid.

  • Next payday expect my order of one of these beauties!

    • My order has been placed! Woohoo! I cant wait! Come on priority mail! I have the Pololu Baby Orangutan B-328 but it isn’t really Arduino sketch friendly(pin mapping and such). Considering how I just started with programming, I think I need an Arduino board. The Baby O. is a great little board but I need some real practice with an actual Arduino, before I go jumping into an AVR Studio 4 programming environment. Thank you SparkFun.com for getting me started on the right foot. P.S. I love the comments. I sit here for hours reading them, sometimes I read them till I fall asleep. Kinda like geeky little bed time stories. Hmm I wonder if they would work for my kids?

  • So with extra pins broken out, why only 14 I/Os still? I’m confused as to what has changed if anything.

    • So, there are only 14 DIO pins (and 6 analog pins) on the chip; the other 8 pins on the chip are gnd, vcc, clock, etc. As far as I can tell the new headers merely replicate some of the existing pins.

  • -double posting - edited to remove-

  • Looking at the stats of this board versus the Uno you previous sold - the features are identical. So, memory isn’t increased after all?

    • The Ladyada.net has some good thoughts on the R3 >> www.ladyada.net/library/arduino/unofaq.html

      Also you might want to look at the main Arduino Board web page >> http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardUno

  • .

  • This happens to me a lot… I buy something awesome, and the next day the new thing comes out.

  • Some “Arduino-compatible” boards place other signals in the locations now occupied by the NC and IOREF pins, ranging from +1.8V to analog inputs. Will the release of the R3 break the compatibility of these devices (e.g. the DFRobot Romeo) with future shields?

    • I’d say it’s a bit early to say. I think it really depends on if the shield is going to utilize those pins. I don’t foresee many using the IOREF but depending on how things go, I think these boards might have adapt those pins if they want to keep up with the community.

  • now that the R3 board and shields are moving to this new “Arduino 1.0” layout will Sparkfun start carrying 10 pin stackable headers or even a 1.0 shield header kit?

  • We are currently waiting on our first order to show up. We expect it any day now and will fill backorders immediately once our shipment arrives.


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