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Description: This is the new Arduino Uno R3. In addition to all the features of the previous board, the Uno now uses an ATmega16U2 instead of the 8U2 found on the Uno (or the FTDI found on previous generations). This allows for faster transfer rates and more memory. No drivers needed for Linux or Mac (inf file for Windows is needed and included in the Arduino IDE), and the ability to have the Uno show up as a keyboard, mouse, joystick, etc.

The Uno R3 also adds SDA and SCL pins next to the AREF. In addition, there are two new pins placed near the RESET pin. One is the IOREF that allow the shields to adapt to the voltage provided from the board. The other is a not connected and is reserved for future purposes. The Uno R3 works with all existing shields but can adapt to new shields which use these additional pins.

Arduino is an open-source physical computing platform based on a simple i/o board and a development environment that implements the Processing/Wiring language. Arduino can be used to develop stand-alone interactive objects or can be connected to software on your computer (e.g. Flash, Processing, MaxMSP). The open-source IDE can be downloaded for free (currently for Mac OS X, Windows, and Linux).

Special SMD Version: Because Atmel is moving more and more of their production capacity to surface mount ICs, the DIP packaged ATmega is becoming more and more difficult to get. To keep up with demand, we now offer the Arduino Uno R3 with an SMD ATmega. The board is identical to the PTH version of the Uno, but you won't be able to remove the ATmega without some hot-air. This change shouldn't affect most users. Besides - when was the last time you managed to destroy an ATmega and needed to repair an Arduino board? Those things are nearly indestructible.

Note: The Arduino Uno R3 requires the Arduino 1.0 drivers folder in order to install properly on some computers. We have tested and confirmed that the R3 can be programmed in older versions of the IDE. However, the first time using the R3 on a new computer, you will need to have Arduino 1.0 installed on that machine.  If you are interested in reading more about the changes to the IDE, check out the official Arduino 1.0 Release notes!

Features:

  • ATmega328 microcontroller
  • Input voltage - 7-12V
  • 14 Digital I/O Pins (6 PWM outputs)
  • 6 Analog Inputs
  • 32k Flash Memory
  • 16Mhz Clock Speed

Documents:

Comments 12 comments

  • Question: If I were plug this into the 650mA wall plug AND plug it into the USB(which I’ve done) which would it draw from by default, and could it combine the two power sources if it needed more than either produced on its own? I don’t actually need that much current, I’m just curious…

  • Contrary to what the Arduino Day page said, I am not allowed to back order this product. Why?

  • Is this unit already put together? Or does it require buliding? Sorry i am new to this kind of thing

    • Should already be put together. If you were to open the page for a kit - like the simon says through-hole kit - you will see a small picture of a soldering iron (okay, it’s a drawn pic instead of a camera pic). If you click it, you’ll see what you’ll end up doing:

      Rookie - The number of pins increases, and you will have to determine polarity of components and some of the components might be a bit trickier or close together. You might need solder wick or flux.

      This pic does not show on this page, so it’s safe to say no extra work is required.

  • I chose the DIP vs this SMT board so I could remove the chip and use it to program pro mini’s. Is there any way to do that with the SMT versions? Like holding reset low while programming the other board perhaps? http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoToBreadboard tutorial only mentions removing the chip entirely.

  • Question: Does anyone know the sample frequency of the Arduino UNO? Also, is it the same sample freq for the other type of arduinos?

    • It’s a bit of a complicated question, as the sample rate will depend a lot on what processing you’re doing between samples. Practically speaking, you should be able to sample an analog input and do very light processing at around 10kHz.

  • Me thinks someone should be thinking about a new form factor for Arduino and the Shields soon!

    • If this happens, I’d like to see the .160" spacing on the digital header side of the board replaced with .100" or .200" spacing. This would make using standard .100" protoboard much easier. I’m not sure how the .160" slipped by.

    • I agree, they need to get rid of that stupid printer port and put a built in wireless programer. blueteeth, wifi, xbee whatever, at the bare minimum use a mini A or micro usb port instead.

    • It almost looks like Arduino is to the point where the blue board should just be the programming adapter shield!

    • Take a look at the Arduino Due.


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