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Description: The MicroView is the first chip-sized Arduino compatible module that lets you see what your Arduino is thinking using a built-in OLED display. With the on-board 64x48 pixel OLED, you can use the MicroView to display sensor data, emails, pin status, and more. It also fits nicely into a breadboard to make prototyping easy. The MicroView also has a full-featured Arduino library to make programming the module easy.

In the heart of MicroView there is ATMEL’s ATmega328P, 5V & 3.3V LDO and a 64x48 pixel OLED display, together with other passive components that allow the MicroView to operate without any external components other than a power supply. Additionally, the MicroView is 100% code compatible with Arduino Uno (ATmega328P version), meaning the code that runs on an Arduino Uno will also be able to run on the MicroView if the IO pins used in the code are externally exposed on the MicroView.

Note: The MicroView programmer is sold separately. Check the recommended products below. Also, unlike the Kickstarter campaign, this does not come with the breadboard and USB cable. You only get the bare module.


  • 64x48 Pixel OLED Display
  • ATmega328P
  • 3.3V - 16V DC Input
  • 12 Digital I/O Pins (3 PWM)
  • 6 Analog Inputs
  • Breadboard Friendly DIP Package
  • 32KB Flash Memory
  • Arduino IDE 1.0+ Compatible


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Customer Comments

  • Hi all, My KS MicroView arrived and it’s great. A few of us primarily interested in MicroView games programming have started a free forum (uview.forumchitchat dot com) to discuss and share code, if anyone would like to join/contribute please do.

  • I feel like this device is in desperate need of a pushbutton or two.

    • And Bluetooth… Yes, that would make it perfect!

      • Well, I think you’d be hard-pressed to fit a Bluetooth module in there. I just added a header to break out the ISP lines - so I can tell you, there really isn’t a lot of unused space inside the casing of this thing. Putting a couple pushbuttons on some of the non-exposed I/O pins would require changes to the plastics (to incorporate holes and caps for the buttons - possibly necessitating a slide-mold to put the buttons on the side of the unit) and probably a more compact layout for the PCB (replacing the TQFP ‘328 with a QFN, for starters) to make space for the switches themselves. It’s an expensive proposition unfortunately but otherwise well within the realm of possiblity.

        • Perhaps just a stainless steel “staple” along each edge wired to inputs to be used for touch sensing. It would require a bit more assembly to wire the staples to the PCB, but should be cheaper and more compact that physical switches. I might try this mod if I ever open one up…

  • to 408183: yeah they are making money off the the project. But even though they are not getting rich off this. They are running a business that employs people and comes up with ideas that we use for pleasure and work. Don’t allow yourself you confuse what these people are doing for the benefit of all of us and the greed that is Wall Street. I take offense to that.

  • Well, I guess I now have an answer to my question on Kickstarter as to whether this is going to become a regular product for SparkFun!

    I’m looking forward to getting my Kickstarter “reward” and being able to play with it, and thinking up a few projects for it.

  • I don’t think it’s cheaper than Kickstarters, in fact I think it’s about $10 more if I remember correctly. The difference is that the Kickstarter version comes with the MicroView and the Programer so that is about $55 on here and I think it was $45 on Kickstarter.

    Anyhow…Happy they have this product for pre-order. Now if I could just get them to sell the little OLED screen as a stand alone breakout that would be super cool!


    • Sniped this site from the original posting of the MicroView. OLED Display

    • I, too, backed at the MicroView+programmer level, and it’s definitely cheaper for me due to the international shipping - though only just. At other levels, it’s not necessarily as favorable. That said, it’s a KickStarter project - backing it is what helped made it possible in the first place and I also get to have mine pretty soon (as opposed to ~October). It’s a bit like the veronica mars movie (people ended up being able to watch it online for cheaper than most backer levels), or even the oculus rift (facebook acquisition outrage where “where’s my slice of that pie??” applies, not the more fundamental outrage). It might sting a little, but those are always possible outcomes. At least it’s got SparkFun behind it, and there’s little fear that it ends up vaporware ( unlike a few other projects I backed :) )

  • WTF? Kickstarter backers get hosed on the price? “Help us out now, so we can sell these on Sparkfun in 3 months for cheaper.” Dirty trick.

    • I believe the purpose of the Kickstarter was to turn it into a product (engineering costs). Now that they have the product designed (and sold X thousands of them) the cost ought to be lower. It’s not a trick; it’s how product development typically works. Crowdsourcing just allows people to part of the development process and cover those costs, in return you get in on the first production run. Also, the Kickstarter price covered shipping (the price above does not).

    • Yeah, it might look like that at first glance, but as others have noted, this is JUST the module. If you buy the $6 breadboard and the $3 cable, you’re a tad more, and you don’t get shipping included.

    • Did you miss “FREE WORLDWIDE SHIPPING” on the KS rewards?

      I’m actually glad to see the prices are in-line - it means both GeekAmmo and SFE did their homework and got the pricing right in the first place. If they offered it too cheap to backers of the KS campaign they may have run out of money, and now SFE aren’t trying to rip us off if we missed the KS (not that they ever would!).

      • The “MicroView” backing level on the Kickstarter also comes with a breadboard, while this product page and listing are for the MicroView unit alone.

        The “Starter Kit” backing level is the one with the MicroView and Programmer (and breadboard and cable).

      • “Free worldwide shipping” is not the same as “heavily subsidized because everybody is paying into it worldwide shipping”.

    • We end up getting many months before anyone else can buy them The first wave of builds will be for the backers, so Oct - Jan would be when non-backers can buy theirs. On top of that, you get free shipping as opposed to Sparkfun’s shipping. All and all, it’s a good deal. I backed it for $55, getting me the USB programmer, which ends up being the exact same price as buying both here, except I get mine in July/August instead of later on in the year.

  • Hello, Would you be able to post a link to the code used to demonstrate the hookup of the 9DOF IMU to the Microview? Thanks in advance.

  • I have 3 or 4 of these and they are great for breadboarding. The housing is nicely made, but useless for panel mounting. It would have more useful to have a bezel. They claim to have STL files to make your own case, but STL cannot be modified much. STEP or IGES files would have been better. There is need for an input device - some buttons would have been nice. The biggest problem however the lack of API documentation. The github material is all old and appears that someone just gave up writing the documentation sometime last year. This could be a great seller but needs more support. The elementary tutorial is not enough.

  • I’d expect for the $40 price, one would purchase the MicroView AND the programmer, not just the MicroView. The current price scared me away.

  • Hi ! Do you think that it’s powerfull enough to be used with the mp3 player shield ? Thanks

    • Yes and no. This runs on the ATMega328 which is the same microcontroller the Arduino Uno runs on so it will have the same power. That being said the microview talks to the screen over SPI which is one of the reasons the SPI pins are not broken out. Since the MP3 player shield uses the SPI bus for both the SD card and the VLSI chip actually hooking everything up might be a bit tricky.

  • How can I change the SparkFun splash screen to my own custom splash screen?

  • Still waiting on my KS order…….what gives?

    • Most likely we have the wrong address (or no address) for you. Email and they should be able to help you out.

  • What happens when you report a comment? The reason I am commenting this on this product is it is the top seller so plenty of people must view it.

    • Most comments do get viewed - some of us actually use the comments feed and are aware of every comment posted ;)

      When you report a comment, somebody from SFE staff will take a quick look to determine if it is, say, spam or otherwise inappropriate, and may then take action to remove the comment. I have only used it for spam, myself. If there’s a comment that otherwise requires attention (perhaps somebody left personal information mistakenly thinking it was private - it’s happened before), I tend to nudge one of the SFE staff on IRC, fill in the contact form, or send an e-mail.

      For what it’s worth, this information is also available in:
      ( though I can’t quite remember how you get to that page :) )

  • I really like the microview - very cool product!

    If you are considering a rev2, please add + and - markings on the plastic case near their respective pins. When this is plugged into a breadboard (without the programmer) the curved shape of the backshell makes it a bit hard to find the last pin in each row. This makes “off by one” errors possible with the 9V supply which is not a good thing.

  • Nice little thing. A bit expensive for more than prototyping in my opinion. But hey, why not make a pong?

  • To be clear, does this have internal voltage regulation (Input is listed at 3.3-16V). If I plug 12V into VIN, will everything function fine?

    Also, the specs are listed as 12 Digital I/O pins although only 4 are listed (2, 3, 5, and 6). Do the other 8 come from using and TX/RX and A0-A5 as Digital I/O?

  • Hi, Is there a way to switch off the screen without turn off the microview. I need to save my lipo battery. I don’t need the screen except when a user push a button or something like that to see some information on the screen.

    Except the API end(), I don’t see any other API to do that. any Ideas ?

    • When I do: uView.clear(ALL); I get about 2 mA of power savings and a blank screen. Because this is an OLED display, I think turning off all the pixels using that command is a significant power savings.

      I think alternatively if you really want larger power savings, you can use the end, and then use hardware interrupts to wake the arduino back up… but this really isn’t my area of expertise.

  • What is the physical size of the Micro View? Size of a cutout for a front panel display.

    • The MicroView front face is 26mm x 26mm. Keep in mind that it has rounded corners (I’m not sure about radius) and a slightly curved face (no flush mounting - you’ll have to compromise). There’s a 3D STL model available if you need to do some measurements without having one in hand:

      Edit: Oh, and if you only need to be able to see the display, not necessarily mount the entire housing, there’s a 3D model of the top cover with cut-out as well.

  • I think I want to replace the 16MHz resonator with a 14.7456MHz one to work with my programmer. Dose anyone know the resonator package style used on this? I’m poking around and I cant seem to find a resonator / crystal that is the correct size or close enough. The eagle files don’t say much about the package. THANKS

    • I don’t know if it’s a style per se, but the silkscreen lines suggest a dimension of 3.18mm x 1.27mm. Digikey (as an example) shows six components from two vendors for a resonator, 3-pad, SMD, 3.2mm x 1.25mm/1.3mm 14.746/14.74MHz, but they’re all non-stock and one isn’t even actually 3-pad ;) I’d imagine if you expand the size allowances you should be able to find one.
      It would be a lot less hassle to grab a programmer that works with the MicroView ‘as is’, though?

      That said, I could have sworn a BOM was going to be made available so you could get the exact parts - maybe I missed it, but I’m definitely not finding one :)

  • Hey… Got one… VERY cool… Love it.

    BUT… powering it is weird. Looking for a battery method to power it.. Looks like a single LiPo is s no-go. Two LiPo’s in series would work, but but charging two LiPo’s. is a pain. All chargers available from Sparkfun, Adafruit and Chinese guys on Ebay are single-cell. So..

    Does anyone have any suggestions for a SMALL battery arrangement for this?

    I could go with 4 AAAA cells (yes AAAA), but cannot find a four-cell AAAA battery holder anywhere. A 9 Volt is just to fat for the project in mind.

    Open to any ideas!

    • How about lithium button cells, such as CR2032? There are smaller versions than the ubiquitous CR2032, of course, but with less capacity.

      You could use this tiny boost converter to make it run on a single CR2032, if 200 mA is enough, otherwise you can find more powerful ones.

      Sparkfun even has a nice box for two CR2032 in series, with on/off switch and wires.

      If you want rechargeable you could go for a single LiPo and a boost converter.

    • Go check out Digi-Key ( and click on the “Product Index” on the left side, then scroll down to “Battery Products”, and click on “Battery Holders, Clips, Contacts” and select “AAAA” under “Battery Cell Size” (the fifth column) and click on “Apply Filters”. You might also want to check the box labeled “In stock” and click “Apply Filters” again, to see only what they’ve got on hand. I’m seeing 7 different possibilities, though none are for 4 AAAA cells. My approach would be to put two 2 cell holders in series. (This also gives you more flexibility in arranging them physically!)

      BTW, I’ve been a customer of Digi-Key since about 1973, and in that time, I’ve had great service and only had to contact Customer Service twice, and the problem got corrected cheerfully and promptly.

    • Have you considered a boost circuit? I have to say though, that if a 9V battery is physically too big, you’re probably not going to be left with much space for single lipo+support circuitry to have a whole lot of capacity in that single lipo. Perhaps re-consider your recharging plan?

  • Your status currently says “This product is produced in-house by SparkFun. We are currently planning to build 199 units.” I don’t know what that means in terms of “if I order one right now, when will I get it.” That would be more interesting to me. I’m glad you’re going to be getting 199 of them though.

    • That information is much harder to estimate. Sometimes they are waiting on a part, sometimes they are physically being built and will be available in a few hours. Currently our system doesn’t really have a way to distinguish and get an accurate date for products, but we do want to assure you we are planning on building more as soon as possible. In this case they are pretty high priority, so I’m guessing they should show up in the next week. Also, you can always email and ask for more details if you need them in a certain time frame.

  • A couple of issues: 1) The learn website ( won’t let you view it unless you give it the email address you used as a Kickstarter backer. I’m not one. 2) Really needs more documentation. I’ve looked at a half dozen tutorials and web pages and I haven’t been able to find the physical and display dimensions. Just a regular spec sheet and list of features, please! If there is one somewhere, great! I wasn’t able to find it in 20 minutes of poking around. Maybe one exists and I just didn’t dig hard enough. Preferably, it would be listed in the documents section of the product page on the SparkFun website.

    Thanks, Brad

  • Does anyone know how fast the screen can re-draw itself (i.e. supportable frame-rate?)

  • This device has great promise (I received one with the first Kickstarter shipment) but is in desperate need of documentation. The Learn MicroView tutorial is a good start, but needs to explain how to use fonts/gauges/etc in addition to just providing step-by-step examples of their use.

  • like the idea and most likly will buy some. I can see a add on’s to this. A matching bezel ¼ height full width allowing snap in buttons, camera and/or speaker

  • These are great! But we need more MicroViews! Looking forward to being able to buy more.

  • I received my MicroView/programmer this week and I must say that the unit itself is very slick and looks fantastic, also the fast response from the dev team on these boot loader problems has been admirable; they set an example for great customer service when things go wrong. That said, I am having problems beyond verifying if I can upload a sketch. Right now using the recommended codebender start up the device cannot be found after installing the FTDI drivers, but my MicroView also does not enter into the demo mode after attaching it to my USB port. I get the Sparkfun logo displayed but that is all, the unit does not proceed to step through the various demo sequences as I would expect. I haven’t seen any information regarding this particular issue yet, does anyone else have any insight into why I am not seeing the demo? Thanks, and keep up the great work.

    • I’m happy to report that after getting my Uno dusted off and following the great tutorial from Alasdair Allan here: I was able to flash a bootloader to my microview and can now upload sketches. This is a fun device, thanks to the team and community for this great kickstarter. =D

  • Just received my two Kickstarter kits. Plugged everything into the first kit and connected to the Arduino IDE software. After loading the library, I connected to the port - /dev/cu.usbserial-DA00SWER - and “HelloWorld” worked first time out.

    Found a notification on - - that you are having some difficulties with some kits so I fired up my second MicroView. It did not run straight out, BUT i found that the port connection was at a different address - /dev/cu.usbserial-DA00SUDC. After changing the port, everything worked fine.

    Do all FTDI programming boards have a different address? This may be a bit confusing to some, but the good news is that you can run more than one programmer on the same IDE.

    Inquiring minds would like some clarification.

    • When you plug in a USB-to-serial adapter, it gets enumerated by the system and gets some kind of designation. On Windows it gets a numbered COM port (COM1, COM2, etc.) as if it were an old RS-232 port. On Linux and Mac, the designation is more flexible. The main requirement is that the designation for a newly-plugged-in device can’t be the same as the designation for another device that’s already plugged in. On the Mac with the FTDI driver I think those last four hex digits at the end of the designation are the device’s serial number. It’s ugly to look at but the upshot is that any time you use the same device, it should have the same designation… Unlike Windows or Linux (my system anyway) where it’ll be given some arbitrary number…

    • Yes. I’m not too familiar with OSes other than Windows, but each does show up as a different port. Yes, this is a blessing and a curse.

  • Just un boxed my Kickstarter reward and as always the build is the typical high quality I have come to expect from Sparkfun. However, the protective vinyl covering on the display once removed has left a nasty sticky residue on the screen. My bet is the product got too warm in the back of a truck during the shipping process. Anyway, does anyone have a suggestion for safely removing the residue without damaging the display?

  • I was proud to contribute to this product’s Kickstarter, and once I work out projects for it, I am likely to buy more. I might be one of the folks to design a MicroShield for it.

  • I got my MicroView learning kit today. The preloaded interactive wiring & LED demo was a nice touch to show off what it does out of the box. It is going to find its way into a few projects so I hope I can order more soon.

  • My learning package arrived today! The website is not up yet though :(

  • The Kickstarter page indicates that “Voltages below 6VDC are for hackers that wish to drive the ATmega328P and LDO beyond the datasheet’s limit.” Does this mean that if I power it from a LiPO through a 5V boost converter I should expect flaky performance unless I e.g. down-clock it, or should 5V be a suitable power supply? The programmer board would be providing 5V from the USB after all…

    • You should be totally safe with the LiPo boosting to 5V. The power circuitry on the MV is a lot like an Arduino: VIN goes through a 5V LDO to supply the ATmega328, and that 5V line runs through a 3.3V regulator to supply the display. With an already regulated 5V supply, you can bypass the VIN pin and plug that directly into the MV’s 5V pin to supply the module. (That’s actually what the programmer board does.)

  • Does this (SP branded/version) come with the ‘tutorials’ pre-loaded on it?

    I dont need all the extra components from the kickstarter.. (I have enough of my own leds, resistors..etc to not have to re-pay for them).. but getting the complete ‘kit’ with tutorials and what not IS important to me..

    Also same question as posted previously… if I have my own FTDI programmers… can I use that instead?


  • If I have an FTDI cable, can I program this over a breadboard without buying the programmer module?

    • It’ll just about work, but you’ll need to do something about the auto-reset capacitor. To save space, the MicroView’s auto-reset cap lives on the programmer, so to get the MicroView to program with your FTDI cable you’ll need to connect an external 0.1uF cap between DTR (the FTDI’s green wire) and the MicroView’s reset pin. I’ll put a more detailed blurb about this in our MicroView tutorial when it goes live.

      • Thanks for clarifying about the FTDI programmer/useage.

        Can you comment on the ‘tutorials’? They mention they come ‘pre-loaded’ on the kickstarter page.. do these too come with the tutorials ‘built-in’ as well? or a place to download them/view them externally at least?


      • Sounds easy enough. Thanks!

  • So where is the programmer?

Customer Reviews

3.7 out of 5

Based on 7 ratings:

5 star
4 star
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1 star

2 of 2 found this helpful:

Works like a charm

Was up and running in no time. Ran a number of the tutorials and some experiments. I am surprised how fast you can update the screen given the fact you are updating a memory copy in the ATMELmemory space and copy the memory to the display memory each time you want to update the screen. I am still considering for which project to use this.

2 of 2 found this helpful:

Very Nicely Made

In the car industry they call it fit & finish it is put together well .The uView Easy to use I have a Microview controlling a custom made Hexapod i built .Also a robot that looks like MO from Wallee it is his eye display and controls him also ,Bluetooth programmable he is 30cm x 30cm x50cm Programmer works well no hiccups. I am very happy with the Microview

I forgot to order the USB programmer....

….so I havn’t had much use for this amazing Oled arduino thing yet. It should definitively be a bundle in the Sparkfun netshop.

Sorry to hear you didn’t get a programmer at the time of purchase. We sell them separately because a lot of people want to use one programmer to work with many displays. If you are interested in a kit, have a look at this. Cheers

0 of 3 found this helpful:

Received two, both non-functional.

First one, the display didn’t work properly. The program that the Microview comes with was corrupted on the display and I couldn’t program it. The second one the display looked great, but I couldn’t program it either. The Microview is not ready for primetime yet…

Not Sparkfun’s fault, they were very supportive and responsive throughout the support and return process. However, I cannot recommend this product at this time.

So sorry for all the troubles. I’m glad we could get you all taken care of with your RMA. Cheers

works as advertised

This was easy to get up and running. The hardware is great. My main gripe is with the API provided. The documentation could use some improvement.

Great product

Love it. Hooking it up to xCode (mac) was a piece of cake: Plug and play. So played around a bit before using a real project, and I found the display incredible crispy, sharp and pretty fast. Due to the microview library and examples, you’re able to start using it without any knowledge (besides arduino knowledge :-) )

Solid Plastic, MicroView, it's Fantastic

One of the goals for this device was to provide a simple way to watch variables in a sketch. If it only did that, it would have been great, but the graph libraries make it easy to generate graphs to visualize the results as well. I bought this along with a three axis magnetometer for a “simple” project with a very poor understanding of either how an I2C interface or how a magnetometer actually worked. Being able to see output graphs right on the device has been really helpful for troubleshooting and scaling the responses in real time. (Instead of taking the serial log and then working with the data separately.) The graphs were easy to set up and use following the examples at Codebender. (Huge kudos to CodeBender, that’s a separate rave.) I also have to echo the other reviewer’s comments on the fit and finish of the device. It’s definitely a slick little package, feels durable, and the heavy pins aren’t getting bent all over the place either. It would be nice if price dropped over time, but even so this is a very fun device to use, and I can see buying them for other “simple” projects.

Related Tutorials

SparkFun Inventor's Kit for MicroView

February 27, 2015

The SparkFun Inventor's Kit for MicroView follows our tried and true inventor's kit model, bringing you 11 simple yet fun experiments to introduce you to the SparkFun MicroView.