These are a pair of hobby gearmotors from DAGU. These gearmotors are the same ones recommended for use in the Shadow Chassis and offer a cheap and easy-to-use setup to get your wheels turning. Each Hobby Gearmotor also possess a 9mm long output on a straight axis.
These gearmotors require a voltage of 4.5V with a no load current of 190mA while possessing a gearbox ratio of 48:1 and a wheel speed of 140 RPM unloaded.
Every motor order is sold in packs of two.
Note: The RPM listed in the datasheet below is listed as 90RPM. Based on our own testing we found the gearmotors can actually achieve a No Load Speed of about 140 RPM.
This skill concerns mechanical and robotics knowledge. You may need to know how mechanical parts interact, how motors work, or how to use motor drivers and controllers.
Skill Level: Rookie - You will be required to know some basics about motors, basic motor drivers and how simple robotic motion can be accomplished.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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As is common with a lot of things made in China, these simple motors with their plastic gear trains won't last forever. Tried using them for a project, but after a several hundred hours of use, they will die out. In my case, the motors would either spin very slowly as if someone had their thumb on the scale or they'd work sporadically. Sometimes the lights on my red board would blink indicating that power was being directed to them, but they wouldn't spin at all.
They're suitable for projects that don't require anything too durable or strong, but if you want something that will last longer, look into getting Sparkfun motors with gear trains made out of metal.
I'd personally like to have more options for made in USA electronic parts instead of China or at the very least made in Japan, South Korea or Europe.
Putting your encoders on the extra shaft of these motors is definitely the way to go. With a simple 4 blade optical interrupt encoder I'm getting very accurate distances. I get 384 ticks per wheel rev.
This is a WAY better setup than putting encoders on the output shaft. Finally a cheap robot that drives straight!
Bought 4 of these for teaching demos. The lead wires are properly soldered at the motor end, but NONE of the black wire crimp on connectors at the other end were making electrical contact. The wires had not been stripped. Had to fix each one myself. Red wires were properly stripped and crimped…