These are a pair of hobby gearmotors from DAGU. These gearmotors are the same ones recommended for use in the Shadow Chassis and offer a cheap and easy-to-use setup to get your wheels turning. Each Hobby Gearmotor also possess a 9mm long output on a straight axis.
These gearmotors require a voltage of 4.5V with a no load current of 190mA while possessing a gearbox ratio of 48:1 and a wheel speed of 140 RPM unloaded.
Every motor order is sold in packs of two.
Note: The RPM listed in the datasheet below is listed as 90RPM. Based on our own testing we found the gearmotors can actually achieve a No Load Speed of about 140 RPM.
This skill concerns mechanical and robotics knowledge. You may need to know how mechanical parts interact, how motors work, or how to use motor drivers and controllers.
Skill Level: Rookie - You will be required to know some basics about motors, basic motor drivers and how simple robotic motion can be accomplished.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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As is common with a lot of things made in China, these simple motors with their plastic gear trains won't last forever. Tried using them for a project, but after a several hundred hours of use, they will die out. In my case, the motors would either spin very slowly as if someone had their thumb on the scale or they'd work sporadically. Sometimes the lights on my red board would blink indicating that power was being directed to them, but they wouldn't spin at all.
They're suitable for projects that don't require anything too durable or strong, but if you want something that will last longer, look into getting Sparkfun motors with gear trains made out of metal.
I'd personally like to have more options for made in USA electronic parts instead of China or at the very least made in Japan, South Korea or Europe.
Putting your encoders on the extra shaft of these motors is definitely the way to go. With a simple 4 blade optical interrupt encoder I'm getting very accurate distances. I get 384 ticks per wheel rev.
This is a WAY better setup than putting encoders on the output shaft. Finally a cheap robot that drives straight!
Bought 4 of these for teaching demos. The lead wires are properly soldered at the motor end, but NONE of the black wire crimp on connectors at the other end were making electrical contact. The wires had not been stripped. Had to fix each one myself. Red wires were properly stripped and crimped…
I purchased this to use in a 3D printed car I am designing and its narrow body has worked great and it was very easy to use. I also purchased the battery boxes and soldered the wires together - everything works great and my students are interested in how I did it and how THEY can do it too! THANKS Amy Fletcher
I started buying the motor controllers to use with another project, and as an impulse buy grabbed some of these, they're amazing little motors for the price. I was surprised how much torque they were delivering. Now obviously not going to hold up like a full metal gear motor would, but definitely will find a use one some projects. OK, back to building the bots now :)
We have used thousands of these motors in the past so we know exactly what we're getting when we buy them. This batch of a couple hundred had about 10 bad motors. About 5 of them had a lead missing and it appeared to have broken off at the solder and the other 5 had bad motors that would not turn on. The 5 that did not turn on, I removed the plastic strap to detach the motor and inspected the gearbox and motor, the gearbox was fine and it appears the motors are bad.