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Description: This is the newest revision of our FTDI Basic. We now use a SMD 6-pin header on the bottom, which makes it smaller and more compact. Functionality has remained the same.

This is a basic breakout board for the FTDI FT232RL USB to serial IC. The pinout of this board matches the FTDI cable to work with official Arduino and cloned 5V Arduino boards. It can also be used for general serial applications. The major difference with this board is that it brings out the DTR pin as opposed to the RTS pin of the FTDI cable. The DTR pin allows an Arduino target to auto-reset when a new Sketch is downloaded. This is a really nice feature to have and allows a sketch to be downloaded without having to hit the reset button. This board will auto reset any Arduino board that has the reset pin brought out to a 6-pin connector.

The pins labeled BLK and GRN correspond to the colored wires on the FTDI cable. The black wire on the FTDI cable is GND, green is CTS. Use these BLK and GRN pins to align the FTDI basic board with your Arduino target.

This board has TX and RX LEDs that make it a bit better to use over the FTDI cable. You can actually see serial traffic on the LEDs to verify if the board is working.

This board was designed to decrease the cost of Arduino development and increase ease of use (the auto-reset feature rocks!). Our Arduino Pro boards and LilyPads use this type of connector.

One of the nice features of this board is a jumper on the back of the board that allows the board to be configured to either 3.3V or 5V (both power output and IO level). This board ship default to 5V, but you can cut the default trace and add a solder jumper if you need to switch to 3.3V.

Documents:

Comments 149 comments

  • I wish this was listed/ linked above. It would have saved me HOURS!

    FTDI BASIC Side***********Arduino Side

          DTR ---------- DTR
          TXO ---------- RXI
          RXI ---------- TXO
          3V3 ---------- +5 V (if FTDI Basic is set to 5 V and**********If***************Powered via USB)
          CTS (n.C)      
          GND ---------- GND (If powered via USB)
    
    • Actually, CTS must be pulled low, or else the chip can stop transmitting, as per the hardware flow control. So the connection diagram looks to me more like this:

        FTDI Basic | Arduino
        DTR ---------- Reset
        TXO ---------- RXI
        RXI ---------- TXO
        3V3 ---------- +5V (it's mislabeled; only 3.3V when you flip the solder switch from default 5V)
        CTS ---------- GND (pull low) 
        GND ---------- GND
      
      • For a breadboard arduino, connect DTR from the FTDI basic to a 100nF capacitor to Reset. Also, connect a 10k resistor from reset on arduino to +5V

    • Thanks for this, purza. Yes it could be good to have a link to this at the top in the description.

  • I have not been able to use the FTDI to connect to an Arduino on a breadboard circuit. See Makemagazine’s Arduino Primer in volume 25, page 62. I see in the Sparkfun Forum re the Arduino that others have had this same error with the FTDI basic breakout – not in sync error. They have used the FTDI with various Arduino boards. Can you provide more info on interfacing the FTDI board. I have installed the FTDI drivers and see the com port in windows XP and the Arduino IDE. Do I need to buy a different USB- TLL adapter?

    • I know this post is old, but for anyone else like myself reading these for help, this will hopefully shed some light. I had the exact same problem with my arduino, the not in sync error. After a lot of trial and error, mostly error and some research, i got it to work with a breadboard arduino! Tested this on arduino uno bootloader on an atmega 328 DIP and a lilypad bootloader with atmega 168 DIP. Pins are the same for these two, I have no idea for others. Connect like thise: FTDI Basic…………Arduino DTR………………….100nF capacitor (should say 104 on it)–>Reset (pin 1) ALSO, connect a 10kohm resistor from pin 1
      on ardruino to 5V, this part is what had me messed up for so long. RXI……………………TXD (pin 3) TX0…………………..RXD (pin 2) 5V…………………….5V power rail or whatever you are using CTS………………….GND, I don’t know why, but mine is working like this so I leave it alone! GND………………….GND Good luck!

  • Hi all- we had a silk screen printing mishap - if you receive one of these boards that has 3.3v printed between TXO and CTS instead of 5v, you should still be fine using a 5v power supply unless you cut the trace and add a jumper as described above.

    • Heads up everyone. Just received this board ~1 year after the original post and Sparkfun does not seem to have sold out of this batch yet. The silk screen still says 3.3V but it measures 5V.

  • What size/style/type USB connector is on this?

  • Can we PLEASE just get a version with a 3v/5v switch on it… I would gladly pay 2-3 more dollars… and thats a 50 cent part not even.

    • Hey, is this what you are thinking about? I found this FTDI breakout board that has a 3v/5v switch on it.
      http://store.ckdevices.com/products/FTDI-Pro.html

    • make one :)

    • We used a solder jumper switch rather than an AYZ or something of that nature to reduce the possibility of having to do a smoke test. If you are decent with a soldering iron you will be able to solder a surface mount switch to the solder jumper switch’s pads.

      • You could just replace that solder jump with a switch footprint.

      • N8B,
        My concern about releasing vital smoke is precisely why I did NOT suggest a switch; I suggested a male header, for which one would have a choice of connection methods (soldering, wire wrapping, jumper clip).
        I accept that none of these is fool-proof, but neither is the solder jumper. I can, I regretfully assure you, forget which way I’ve solder bridged something. ;o{ As I’ve said for years, if you invent a better “fool-proof” system, someone will invent a better fool. :o}
        If one were to have only 5V or only 3.3 V devices, then using a solder jumper would strike me as reasonable. If, however, one has both, it is (to say the least) darned inconvenient to have to fire up a soldering iron to move an interface device from one uCTLR to another. Therefore, I repeat my request for a male header.
        On the topic of DIY modification: What’s the spacing on the pads? It appears to be substantially less than 0.1 inches. I took a quick look at AYZs, but didn’t see anything that has pin pitch that appears to match the pad pitch. If you could provide the pad spacing and hints as to where to find male headers or switches that match it, that would be a great help.
        TIA,
        Eric

    • I believe they stuck to this design because adding a 3.3V/5V switch might be too risky. Forgetting the switch at 5V and plugging it to a non-5V tolerant 3.3V device would result in instant magic smoke. Probably.

  • Hello, can I use this FTDI Basic to program an ATMEGA or ATTiny via the ICSP using the Arduino IDE?

    Thanks, Tony

    • No, this board is a USB to serial adapter. If you want to use the ISP header to program an AVR you will need an AVR programmer. This is usually used when you have the Arduino bootloader which allows you to program the board over a serial connection.

  • can i program an attiny85 with this?

    • In principle, you could, if you had an ATTiny85 with a bootloader that used software serial. But a bootloader would seriously cut into the flash space of an attiny. I don’t think anyone seriously uses other than AVR programming for them.

  • Sorry for the noob question, but what’s the difference between this and the pocket programmer?

  • The older version of the FTDI board had proper through-hole soldered pins. The 6 pin header socket on the latest verison is surface mounted!! This is a terrible design, and a poor way to save a few cents. The 2nd or 3rd time I plugged it in, it wouldn’t talk to the Arduino. I closely examined it, and found the track had been broken on the 1st and 2nd solder pads.
    This is no surprise, as it is a mechanical component, soldered to pads at the end of hair-width traces on the board, and has no mechanical structural support. It only took a slight lift as I handled it to break 2 tracks. I am not a clumsy person, and was very disappointed to see it was destroyed in about 2 hours.
    All it needed was to be glued to the board and this would have been avoided, or remain with the through-hole pins. It is very poor design. I have no way to repair such a small circuit trace. I have managed to get it to work, but it is very ugly and will not last long.
    @Sparkfun - Please revise your motives for making the header socket SMD. It is poor design.

  • The chip on this gets really hot (can’t keep finger on it for more than a couple of seconds). Hot hot should it get. Also Windows 7 64bit is proving a bit of a challenge for drivers.

  • FYI I had issues with my pro mini not talking with my computer using this breakout board. I tried three different cables and the third one finally allowed uploading. Not sure why the others didn’t work as I didn’t think there was a difference in cables.

  • I’d like to know what’s the difference between this and the 3.3v in terms of usage, when do i need a 3,3v ftdi?

  • why do you have a dedicated 5v and 3.3v version of this? why not populate the solder pads with either a switch(optimal) or a jumper pin to allow your customers to choose the voltage as they need? I understand we can do this ourselves…but I don’t have a fancy pick and place machine, IR reflow oven, or huge stock of switches to choose from…just saying.

  • Hello, I bought one of these today and i opened the package brand new and the first thing i did was to connect it to the computer to see if it works or not. So i took one usb cable and plugged the chip to the computer and nothing happens, rx and tx lights blink one time and that was it. Computer doesn’t even show that a new device has been connected. I installed the drivers, nothig different. I tryed to see if it actually provides the 5v power so i took a voltmeter and between 5v and gnd there is 5v. Is the chip broken or am i missing something else ?

  • This board ship default to 5V

    Perhaps…

    This board ships default to 5V

  • Made a Mintduino (http://makezine.com/projects/build-a-mintronics-mintduino/), plugged the FTDI into the board, Plugged the FTDI into the computer (usb), attempted to upload a sketch, tx LED blinks 3 times, Arduino IDE error (avrdude) “avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00”

    Exact console output http://pastebin.com/raw.php?i=1chs1eFH

    Tried everything it seems. Please help.

    • Make sure you have the FTDI drivers installed, the correct board and correct COM port selected. If you are still having problems email techsupport@sparkfun.com and we’ll see if we can help.

  • I’m confused about the +5VDC coming off pin 3. Using my multimeter, I connected my FTDI Basic Breakout to my laptop (no Arduino) via a USB cable. I then proceeded to confirm that I have +5VDC between pin 1 GND and pin 3 (incorrectly silkscreened as 3V3). My confusion is, if I am using a 7805 Voltage regulator to power my breadboarded Arduino with 5 volts, shouldn’t I then leave pin 3 from the FTDI Basic Breakout not connected?

  • Can anyone recommend a switch or tell me what the pitch is for the solder pads on the back to switch between voltages?

  • What type of USB is it? And which usb-usb cable (here on sparkfun) is compatible with it? Thanks

  • this thing is the best ftdi i have ever used - I added a header and jumper to mine to switch 3.3v or 5v - very small and great for breadboard - only could be better if it were bluetooth - lol

  • I accidentally bought the 3.3v when i wanted to 5v. how do I solder the jumper on back to change from 3.3 to 5v?

    • On the back there’s 3 pads flanked by the labels “3.3V” and “5V”.
      If you purchased the 3.3V version, you should see a very tiny trace between the middle pad and the pad beside the “3.3V” label. You have to physically cut through that trace (a hobby knife or carpet cutting knife will do the trick - be careful handling them!). It helps to have a multimeter or at least continuity tester to reassure yourself that you did indeed cut the trace completely. Then you have to add a trace of your own between the middle pad and the pad beside the “5V” label by putting some solder on both of those pads, then adding a more solder until there’s a glob of solder connecting those two pads. That should be all there’s to it :)

      Of course if somebody bought the 5V and wanted the 3.3, the procedure is the other way around.

  • What are the levels on pins other than 3v3 on the 5V version of this board? Are they all 3v3 level or are some of them 5V? I know in another breakout a logic pins were 3v3 except for DTR to compensate for the Arduino for example.

    I use this as a 5V power supply sometimes so would like to see if I could also use it in a 3v3 environment using on the GND, TXO, and RXI pins.

    Thanks! Karl

  • Is it possible to program the EEPROM in this to change the vendor/product id?

  • Can’t seem to get the chip recognized by my computer Win7 x64. Either “Device cannot start (Code 10)” or when manually trying to install the drivers it returns “The system cannot find the file specified” I’ve shown phantom devices in device manager and uninstalled all FTDI Com port drivers and re-installed them. Any tips would be appreciated.

    • I’d say try it on a different computer to see if you can get it recognized. If it’s still not showing up or being recognized by the computer, it is likely a bad board. Email our tech support team and they can help you out if it is a bad board.

  • I’m confused on where the default 5v trace is.

    Is it the small solder bridge between the output and the 5v pad?

    If its not, would switching to 3.3v be permanent?

    • On the bottom there should be 3 solder pads, with a connecting trace (it’s pretty small, so you’d have to look close) between the middle pad and the pad closest to the 5V silkscreen text, and no connection between the middle pad and the pad closest to the 3.3V silkscreen. If you’ve already got a solder blob between the middle pad and the 5V pad for whatever reason, you’d have to suck that away first if (and double-check with a continuity test to make sure the pads are no longer connected) you want to run at 3.3V.

      The change is semi-permanent - you can, of course, always suck away the solder bridge you’d make between the middle and 3.3V pad later, and bridge the middle and 5V one again. That’s not something you’d want to do very often, though, so if that’s something you’d need to do, I’d look for a small smd slide switch, solder that to the pads with some wire, and stick it to the board.

  • I just bought a couple of these for various 5v and 3.3v projects and I was wondering if I could use the 5v version on a 3.3v project without cutting the solder jumper if I just self power the 3.3v board and omit pin 3 (power) Edit: Ignore this, just saw that the power is also tied to pin4 on the ft232 (i assume to set the IO voltages)

  • Which drivers do I need to get to program an Atmega328?

  • Can I connect this to an Arduino Ethernet? Are the pins in the correct places?

  • If this breakout board is left connected to a pro mini after the usb cable is disconnected and the pro mini is then running off of battery, will the FTDI continue to consume power?

  • would this usb cable still work with this version? thanks.

    https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718

  • In Arduino 1.02, what programmer model do I select? (trying to program a 5V Arduino Pro Mini 328)

    (AVR ISP, AVRISP mkII, USBtiniYSP, USBasp, Parallel Programmer, Arduino as ISP)

    Thanks!

    • You’re mixing up things. You don’t select a programmer model to use this board; you select a programmer if you’re downloading the bootloader to a blank Atmel chip. What you do depends on what you’re trying to program. For example, if you’re programming just a bare Atmel ATMega with the Arduino bootloader already installed, connect this board to your chip’s RX, TX, reset (the DTR), 5V, and ground, and program the chip as if it were mounted in an Uno development board. In that scenario you can set the programmer model to anything since you’re not using it.

  • I just noticed that when using the FTDI Basic Breakout - 5V (DEV-09716) with a Galaxy S2 phone , the phone charges when connected to the FTDI board. The charging current for this phone was measured to be 400ma. I was not aware that devices would charge through this board. I found that a tablet I had around, a Acer A501, would not charge though my power supply had 3amp current capacity. In particular, Have others using this board experienced it providing charging to connected devices? If so , what devices?

    • How are you connecting the FTDI to your phone? Over USB or over the header? The FTDI breakout is a USB accessory, not a host, so it will never supply power over USB to another USB accessory. Although, the 5V pin on the FTDI will supply power, but I am not sure exactly how you are connecting your phone to the FTDI.

      • micro-to-mini Usb cable from phone to FTDI board. Thats it. Just tried it again. The phone IS charging. I ordered several of the FTDI Basic Breakout – 5V (DEV-09716). Board booboo? They all charge the phone. Have you tried this?

  • I just got one of these. When I take the board by itself and plug it into a computer via USB, the TX and RX lights flash once, briefly, and then nothing else happens. I don’t have a driver installed, but on the other hand the OS doesn’t see a new USB device (even “unrecognized”), which appears to be a prerequisite for getting the driver to install. Am I missing some step that’s required to make the board respond to USB, or do I have a bad board?

  • Question: could you tell me more about the 3v3 mark on the connector? Is this an output, an input or whatelse? What do you mean with 3.3 or 5v ( both power output and IO level )?

    I think that the mini usb has also a 5v power, is it correct? If yes, is it used to power the chip ?

    Thanks

    Fiorenzo

  • I have an Uno that already has a usb connector, I want to use this to emulate a usb device like a joystick. Is that possible? Do I have to figure out how to rewrite the FTDI prod id, device id stuff?

    • You may want to take a look at our USB Host Shield. I think that will help you accomplish what you are looking to do much quicker than attempting to hack the FTDI chip’s firmware.

  • Hello, is there a way to test if this device is working correctly without connecting to the USB port? I ask, because I had a shortcut +5V to GND on my developing board attached to this FTDI device and I don’t want to plug it into my USB port again until I know that it is working correctly. Thanks for the help.

    • If you are worried about a short on the board, you could use a multimeter to look for continuity between VCC and Gnd lines on the board. In terms of seeing if the chip can still pass data correctly, you will eventually need to plug it in. I haven’t heard of any FTDI boards damaging a USB port even when they are burned out, but some of our customers may have had a different experience.

  • about the auto-reset.

    It works great in programming mode, makes it easier. But I was using the Arduino as a portable data logger and would come back to the PC to download the data using the USB. Using this board it auto resets and erases that data. One way around that is not connecting the RST pin.

    Any other way around that other than bending the pin? I still want to use the auto reset at times, I suppose for this project I could remove the pin on the arduino and use the onboard reset as needed.

    Any ideas?

    • In answering my own question.

      You could use the Arduino Stackable Header - 6 Pin, cut one of its pins, and use it between the Arduino and the FTDI Basic Breakout when you want data dumping.

      Still any other ideas would be helpful.

      Find the board at: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9280

  • Can this board be used to program an Arduino Mega 2560? I’m looking for a solution to allow me to program the arduino at about 20 feet. I’ve tried connecting this board to the arduino, at a much shorter distance, and I was not able to program the mega.

    • Yeah I have been wondering the same thing, as I can get it working on the older Arduinos, but cant seem to get it working on the Uno or Mega. I understand that they don’t have the FTDI chip but does that mean I don’t need a board like this to program them on the serial ports? thanks for any help.

  • This is probably a n00b question, but if I solder the 5V jumper, does the pin labeled 3.3v on the silkscreen output 5V?

    • That’s correct. Just make sure you switch the jumper properly by cutting the trace to the 3.3v side as well as soldering the 5v side.

  • This product will NOT FIT in your Arduino Pro if you have a barrel jack installed. I used some 6-pin ribbon cable to connect the two together. Great product, but it would be nice if it was a little thinner.

  • The problem I have with this USB breakout is the VCCIO pin on the FT232RL is left floating. The VCCIO pin sets the level of the interface signals. Left floating the default is 3.3V. This means the interface signal are at 3.3V. The VCCIO pin should be jump-able to either 5V or 3.3V. Will this be corrected on a later version?

    This is probably why some people are having trouble and why 1K pullups help.

    See http://mcunotebook.blogspot.com/2012/05/usb-ftdi-breakout-problems.html

  • I ordered this, and the silkscreen was off. The FTDI Basic and 5V labels on either side of the mini-USB jack were switched, the vias in different places, and the VCC pin was labeled 3V3. Not a big deal, but you should fix the 3V3 label and the pics on your site.

  • How much current can be pulled through the FTDI’s power connector for either voltage?

    • 5V: 500mA

      3.3V: about 50mA

      • Thanks for the quick reply!! That means I can use my FTDI as a isolated power supply for this frustration power issue I’m trying to trace. Only needed 200mA and of course thats more than an Arduino can provide on a single pin.

        • You sure can! We use these all the time for quick “benchtop” power supplies.

          • In that case, since its so damned handy – And with so many cellphones using a USB device of some kind and the associated AC to USB converters lying around – why not work up a proper datasheet and hawk it as a feature?

  • To everyone getting not in sync and protocol errors while uploading to a breadboard arduino, try putting 1k pullups on the tx and rx pins of the atmega328. Worked for me.

    • I was also having a devil of a time getting this to work with my breadboard Arduino. I ended up burning the “Arduino Nano w/ ATmega328” bootloader, FTDI TXO->pin 2, FTDI RXI-> pin 3 and FTDI DTR->Reset through a series 100nF capacitor. Mine works both with and without the pullups on TX and RX but does NOT work without the series 100nF cap.

      • The 100nF capacitor in series with DTR worked for me too. No need for pull-ups on TX/RX. Thank You!!

        • Hi all,

          Thanks for the idea. Can you please tell me specifically what you connected the ends of the 100nF cap to? From DTR to…..? Thanks in advance!

          EDIT: I’m trying to use this FTDI breakout to program a 5V Arduino pro. I tried putting a 100nF cap in series in between the DTR pin on the breakout and the RST pin on the pro (Which I think is what you guys meant?), but still no luck. Getting the same “not in sync” error. I also added two 1k resistors from TX and RX and pulled them up to the 5V pin…no luck.

          Any help would be great. Thanks!

          • You know what really helps? SELECTING THE RIGHT BOARD FROM THE IDE. facepalm Sorry about the n00b mistake. For what it’s worth, I am now able to program my 5v arduion pro without any additional caps or resistors, just plugged it straight into the breakout. whaddya know?

      • THANK YOU! Your capacitor idea was what solved my problem. Mine too works without the pull-up resistors. Just in case anyone reads this I set up my board to “Arduino Uno” on the Arduino IDE (other models wouldn’t work), and also had to update my FTDI drivers for OSX which I downloaded straight from the official FTDI download page.

      • Bananaflux, THANKS SO MUCH. The Capacitor Trick worked for me. I was also working with a custom Arduino, but I was past the breadboard stage and actually had PCB’s made. I had pulled the Arduino TX, RX, Reset, and GND pins out to a header, with the hope I could solder the AVR chip directly to the board and still be able to make program changes, otherwise I would keep using a socket. I was about to give up when I saw your post. Works like a charm. 100nF capcitor in series - no pullups worked for me. Before that I got the dreaded “avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding' error.

  • “This board ship default to…” To “This board ships default to…”

  • schematic shows a link to select 3.3 or 5 volts label says default is 3.3 volts er the default is actually 5 volts

  • schematic shows a link to select 3.3 or 5 volts label says default is 3.3 volts er the default is actually 5 volts

  • schematic shows a link to select 3.3 or 5 volts label says default is 3.3 volts er the default is actually 5 volts

  • Does anyone have a part number/datasheet for the 6-pin SMT female header used?

    • I was curious about this too. Not sure why SFE does not publish BOMs (this is open source, right?), so I found a suitable part instead: http://www.samtec.com/ProductInformation/TechnicalSpecifications/Overview.aspx?series=SMH

      • Thanks for the link! To answer your question, we get most of our parts from high-volume bulk suppliers, and thus the part numbers we use wouldn’t be of use to someone trying to buy one or two. However, we DO try to provide full value and footprint information in our Eagle files (e.g. “0.1uF, 0603 footprint”), which should allow you to match almost all of our BOMs to parts you can find at Digi-Key, etc.

        • I disagree with not providing part numbers for OSHW. The part number SFE used might be needed for more than just replicating the product. Someone may want to find out how many times the connector can be mated and un-mated. The contact material would need to be known for someone that might want to use the board in an application that might cause deterioration of the contacts or those mated to them. This is just a connector, other components used in a design have far more caveats (ie: capacitor voltage and temperature derating that would not be evident from “0.1uF, 0603”). The reality is, that just like a designer has no idea how anyone will be using their designs, they also have no idea how anyone will use the information about their design.

  • If you are using one of these boards on Linux and having “permission denied” even though you ought to have read/write permissions for the relevant TTY file, see this bug :

    bug 586751

    Basically, some versions of udev misidentify every device that uses an FTDI chip as one particular device, and attaches the tty to the powerd daemon.

    To fix the problem, you just need to comment out the udev rule for that device (see the bug). Or, wait until your distro pushes udev with the updated rules.

  • BTW, I measured the output with a multimeter; 5v. The boards I received are mislabeled.

  • The picture shows the 5v version and the output on the header is marked “5v”. I bought 2 5v and 2 3.3v. The 5v units are labe “5v” next to the USB socket, but the output is marked 3.3v.

    Color me confused.

    • With our current silkscreen printing, the 5v boards show 3.3v at the 6 pin header. If your board says 5v next to the USB socket, it should be a 5v FTDI board. However, double checking with a multimeter is never a bad idea!

  • Consider reading this if you are streaming data. It explains why the CTS signal is delayed.

  • Consider reading this if you are streaming data. It explains why the CTS signal is delayed.

  • Hello… I have an Arduino Pro Mini 328 5v and a FTDI Basic Breakout 5v. If I connect the USB I get 5v from the PC. If I also connect RAW input on the Mini to 12v it goes to the on-board regulator and makes 5v, so I’m now feeding the Mini 5v from both sources. Is this a problem? 73, Garitron.
    Update: Since I have the FTDI board wired to the Arduino with individual wire-wrap wires, rather than a soldered-in header, I was able to disconnect the Vcc feeding into the Arduino from the USB source. This eliminated the two sources of +5 feeding the same circuitry. Bullet dodged. 73, Garitron

  • Is there an easy way to adapt the FTDI basic to a 6 pin ICSP header? i know theres many ways to adapt an rs232 port to icsp, but not a single program i have tried (win avr, avr studio, avrdude) seems to have built in functionality for such actions with this board, and rejects it as a programmer.

  • hi, I have a USB to UART TTL Serial Converter, it has the following pins
    RST, 3V, 5V, TXD, RXD, GND, DTR, DSR, RTS, CTS, SPD, RI, DCD
    It uses a Sil labs chip
    would I be able to use this to pragram the mega328 pro board?

    • You should be able to use it to program the Pro boards, but you will likely not be able to plug it directly onto the board, like you can with the FTDI basics. It will simply be a matter of running jumper wires correctly between the two devices.

  • Can anyone please tell which one of these (5V/3.3V) I need for the Ardweeny and also the Lilypad?

  • Does this come with the SMD 6-pin header on the bottom or do I need to get one for it?

  • Why is this so expensive? It costs twice as much as the parts list.

  • Just got one yesterday, and it does not seem to be powering up at all. I soldered a 6 pin header onto my Arduino Pro Mini, lined up the pins, plugged it in, plugged it into the computer and… nothing. I tried two separate cable to rule that out. I plugged my Duemilanove in and it still works. Am I forgetting something?

  • Hi there,
    Is there any manual on how to switch from 5V to 3.3V for a very basic user like me ? I don’t know what is the “trace” and where to cut, but have enough knowledge to solder the pad ;-)
    Also howto reverse it as i only need the 3.3v for setting up a GPS module then going back to 5V for arduino programing.
    Thanks.

    • i believe the easiest way to accomplish what you need is to buy both this project and the 3.3v one

  • My understanding is that FTDI is a USB-to-UART bridge. Doesn’t Arduino come with that interface on board? What would this be used for?

  • Likely I’m an idiot for not being able to figure this out but is there a non PCB (ie., ribbon cable, crimped pin) mating connector available from Sparkfun for the 6-pin header?
    Thanks!

    • You can use break away headers (PRT-10158) and a 6 wire jumper wire (PRT-10366) to connect with the 6 pin header.

  • nice

  • The schematic of this product (DEV-09716) is identical to the schematic of DEV-09873, which is the 3.3v version! Any explanation? Is there any difference between these two?

  • anyone know the voltage of the 10uF Tantulam Capacitor on this board? or digikey part?

  • Is there a version of the dtr pin but in ttl?
    Or if not how Im going to do that?

  • Hi, are the schematics and Eagle Files available under a specific license or are they just for reference? Thanks!

  • if you look at schematic…the 3.3v and 5v are the same

  • Nevermind

  • do the parts come with it, or do you have to buy it separately?

  • well… could SFE do ftdi boards just like this?
    http://www.thaieasyelec.net/index.php/USB/USB-Convert/Serial-UART-to-USB-mini-B-Converter-V3-0/p_42.html
    can you see the magic jumper there.. and this jumper may cost $0.01 I believe… or something like that lol
    but would make far easier to do stuff with this guy…
    imagine if someone has a xbee with a AVR microcontroller… so in order to config the xbee with the digi program you need to put it on 3.3v mode… than to use with the AVR you go to 5v again… getting soldering iron 2 times… lol
    it’s just something that appears to be so easy to make…
    I believe there is no smd jumper… but no one will complain about a common DIP sized jumper lol

  • how exactly do i modify it from 5v to 3.3v? on my board it looks like the default trace is running from the 3.3v pad to the center. do i cut this then solder the 5v pad to the center?

    • This is exactly what I did. It’s a fine trace, so cut carefully, and small pads, so make sure to use a fine tip when jumping them. Test the ground pin on the header over to the other pins while it’s plugged in to USB to measure the voltage, which should be ~5v after the modification.

  • I think I would have preferred not to have the 5V wired up either, but leave it up to the user to add the jumper to either 5V or 3.3V.
    One thing I do wish though was for the RTS line to be accessible to add a auto reset capacitor.

  • Im having problems getting this to work with Windows 7 x64. Seems like I can install the driver okay but Windows give me an “Cannot start” error and “The device malfunctioned…” thing. Does that mean I got a dud? Can’t test it with Windows XP right now as I don’t have access to it. I’ve tried Linux but I’m getting error trying to install the driver using the “make” command as described on the FTDI installation guide

    • scratch that, apparently, it is my USB cable which interestingly enough, works with my webcam

  • Hi All,
    I intend to couple this board with a pair of Infrared Emitting Diode and a Phototransistor (GL380 & PT380F) to communicate with an existing instrument. Could any body give your comments on how to carry out this task?
    Thanks.

  • Can an xtreme bee be pluged into to this breakout board to program xbees through x-ctu
    link to the xtreme bee board
    http://store.diydrones.com/product_p/br-0015-01.htm

  • Ah, can you give us an idea when these are going to be back in stock?<br />
    <br />
    Thanks!

  • it would be cool if there was a switch (or solder jumper, whatever) to pick between bringing out DTR or RTS - that way it could also be used in place of the FTDI cable if needed

  • I’d love to have this built into a Protoshield.

  • Posted this over on the cable, too, so don’t shout spam…
    I think that it would be pretty awsome to see one of these with an ATMEGA8u2, like on the Arduino Uno… It would be faster… Just saying… These are cool too, but you caould add it along side.

    • The speed doesn’t come from the ATMega8u2, it comes from the Arduino booloader running at 115200baud. You can use this to upload at 115kbps too: just burn the Uno bootloader to your target device. You also get another 1kB of program memory. Win/win!

  • I’m confused! :o{
    My “understanding”: If I buy this board, I get one that works at 5 V that I can change to working at 3.3 V in a couple of minutes. For a dollar more, I can get a board that’s equivalent to this one post-modification, but can’t be modified to run at 5V.
    So, why would one buy the 3.3 V board?
    Relatedly, I’d be happy to pay a buck more to get this board with a good, old-fashioned jumper block instead of the solder jumper. If those SJ pads were properly spaced, you could use half of a PRT-09015 and keep the whole thing in its current rectangular prism space. That approach would allow the user the choice of soldering a voltage selection jumper, wire wrapping one on, or sliding one on.
    (BTW: Is the part pictured on the catalog page for 09015 the correct one? According to both the text and the datasheet, the pin spacing is 0.1 inches. Therefore, a six pin connector should be 0.6 inches wide. The one in the photographs appears substantially larger than that.)
    Even using the same format female header as is being used now, facing the other direction, would allow selection by inserting a wire jumper or a jumper plug.
    TIA,
    Eric

  • A 90 degree usb cable to go with this would be great too.
    Or something like this: http://www10.shopping.com/xPO-CTG-Cables-to-Go-FlexUSB-USB-adapter-4-pin-USB-Type-A-M-4-pin-USB-Type-A-F-USB-Hi-Speed-US


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