If you need some juice, this 6Ahr triple pack is for you. These are very slim, extremely light weight batteries based on the new Polymer Lithium Ion chemistry. This is the highest energy density currently in production. Each cells outputs a nominal 3.7V at 2000mAh! This solid 3 cell pack (6Ahr) comes terminated with a standard 2-pin JST-PH connector - 2mm spacing between pins. Do not attempt to charge these with anything but a charger specifically designed for Lithium Ion batteries.
These three cells have been match for internal impedance and can be fully charged and discharged in parallel. Please use caution when using this battery in wearable projects. When using conductive thread, a short in the thread can create sparks and heat. We recommend using coin cell batteries for beginners.
Note: Due to the requirements of shipping these batteries, only two batteries can be shipped together at one time and orders may take longer to process and therefore do not qualify for same-day shipping. Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.
Note: Be careful with the JST connectors. They can stick in pretty good and tugging on them can damage the connector. Check this tutorial for an easy way to remove them safely.
Note: Although these cells are rated for 2C maximum discharge, the wiring and connectors are only rated up to 1A, so be sure to take that into account when determining your power requirements.
Note: This item is non-returnable. If this item arrives damaged or is not functioning properly, please do not hesitate to contact us to see if further actions may be taken.
Weight: 110g (3.88oz)
Datasheet (LiPo Cell)
If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Competent - You will be required to reference a datasheet or schematic to know how to use a component. Your knowledge of a datasheet will only require basic features like power requirements, pinouts, or communications type. Also, you may need a power supply that?s greater than 12V or more than 1A worth of current.
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I have no complaints about this battery. It's compact and delivers plenty of juice.
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We've experienced a couple of these 6Ah batteries swelling up after nominal use. Still trying to establish if the cause is our own system configuration, but I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this. Please share if you have..
why is this battery more expensive than your battery pack with a higher capacity? I want to build my own using your boards but i might as well just start with the 6600mAh battery pack
This battery's connector is compatible with PS3 controllers. I put one of these on a PS3 controller. It works well.
Were you able to fit it all in the controller, or is the battery held to the outside?
I had to put the battery on the outside of the controller.
I wonder if this can be used in the port-o-rotary, without problems to the charger / charging circuit?
i inquired about this and was told that they even included it with some PORT-O-ROTARY's for a while, but the charging took obnoxiously long (perhaps a full day?), and since the unit cannot be used while charging, they went back to a single 2000mAh cell.
However, i have successfully added part PRT-00726 to my port-o-rotary's circuit, so it can be used while charging, and its been working out really great for me for a few weeks now.
So, I wouldn't recommend this battery in a port-o-rotary without also using PRT-00726
@ dingo -
feel free to help out and post how you did your conversion. :) please :)
I am going to search that number you give and see what that reveals.
Can "PRT-12711 - USB LiPoly Charger - Single Cell" be used to charge this battery? Because this is a single cell charger and I see 3 cells here. Thanks !
I read all the comments, Now it is time to ask. Someone mentioned above that this product can be charged AND discharged with a single cell charger such as https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11231 Is this true? Would it be safe?
Correct. Works fine because batteries are in parallel - thus to a charger it appears as a single cell.
Multicell chargers charge cells strung in series.
I did some modifications and tests to this battery pack. If you really want to use all the "juice" you must do two modifications of the battery pack.
A) Remove the protection circuit;
B) Change the cables to a bigger area. My load test gave a discharge curve that confirmed the capacity of the battery’s 6000 mAh. At about 1 C you could have a load for about 1 hour and 12 minutes.
If you want the details follow this link:
This is a good battery pack!
SM6FIE, Bo Gardmark
Removing the protection circuit is a very dangerous thing to do with li-po's. say goodbye to your robot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQheOtdCTjs
Dear Bag, We jut recently got to the same issue... did you generate another safety circuitry? Isnt there any risk of explosion ir wrongly charge?
Hi, I’m been using the battery packages for almost a year now without any problem. I have also been using other LiPo packages for almost 10 years, all without any protection circuit. Use a good charger according to LiPo specifications and don’t overload the battery and you will be safe. Never go under 2.75 volts when discharging and you won’t have any problem. For further reading read my lab report Regards, Bo
Anyone figure out the maximum charge rate? I bought this LithPoly Charger to charge and want to set the charge rate.
What's the max voltage these batteries can supply? I am looking for something that can power a 7.2V DC motor attached to an Arduino. Any suggestions if this won't work?
You could get two of these and wire them in series, which will get you 7.4 volts. Then, if you're really keen on 7.2 volts you could use a voltage regulator or something, but I doubt that the motor won't be able to handle an extra 0.2 volts.
Wire 2 packs in series?
These are 3 lipo cells hooked in parallel so they provide a nominal 3.7V, and the 3.7 will no where near provide the needed voltage to your motors.
1) If the connector is only rated to 2A and this pack can do 2C discharge (or more optimally 0.2 - 1 C), and the wires also cannot handle the capacity, can the wire/connector setup easily be changed where they connect to the pack?
2) Just a heads up that the datasheet above is the one for the 2Ah pack, not this 6Ah one...
I have been seeing a lot of the same questions about this battery so I will go ahead and answer it. This battery IS NOT compatible with Raspberry Pi or Arduino. Raspberry Pi needs 5V and Arduino needs 7.5V (non-USB).
Now, I am wondering if anyome knows of a comparable battery to this one available in 5V (still 1A considering Pi A+ uses mostly that). Thanks!
This says the connectors are only rated to 1 Amp continuous discharge. Can you discharge it using more than 1 Amp?
how to check the battery level while charging? when do i know the battery is charged?
Hi ! Does this battery can work for a UDI U818A Quadcopter (It uses a 3.7V 500mAh Li-Po Battery, JST Connector)
I bought three of these to power ten feet of waterproof LED tape. What's the best way to build the circuit to power the LED tape?
So, could you wire up 2 2000mAh packs in series to get the same results, but in 4000mAh? Sorry for noob question. (trying to wire up my Wii U's battery for $12 instead of Nintendo's $70!
Wiring up packs in series will add the voltage meaning you would have 7.4V at 2000mAh. Wiring up the packs in parallel will add the capacity/maximum current. Be careful playing with Lipo batteries though, especially the charging. If you are charging more than 1 cell you will probably need a balancing circuit. Also, check Amazon, you can get knock off batteries for under $25.
Parallel, sorry. But if I did, would a single cell or double cell charger be necessary to charge it? And where could I get a balancing circuit/diagram?
Typo: "Although these cells are rated for 2C maximum discharge, the wiring and connectors are only rated up to 1A..."—unless you mean 2 coulombs.
2C where C = Capacity as Amps
In this case C = 6A (from 6Ah) thus max discharge is 12A, but the connectors can only support 1A continuous.
Hey guys ! Does this battery can work on a Raspberry PI or on an Arduino? And, what are the time for shipping in France ? (Lowest price shipping)
Thanks from France !
Why would anyone get this when they could get https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11360 for $10 less, and 10% more capacity? Plus USB and charge controller.
Product 11360 won't turn itself on automatically if it completely discharges, and will turn itself off if there's not enough load. You can solve the latter problem by adding load, but that means you get less runtime (for a 15mA load, 11360 is equivalent to the $25 cheaper https://www.sparkfun.com/products/341), so it's not really a solution.
In more practical terms, this one will run an unmodified Arduino Pro Mini 328 continuously for a week on a full charge, while the 11360 will run it for only a few seconds at any charge.
You could take 11360 apart, cannibalize its battery goodness, and reverse engineer or replace its charge controller--but you would have to do some work like that to make the products equivalent for this kind of price comparison. Out of the box they do not behave the same way at all.
11360 is designed to recharge smartphones with huge built-in batteries, and can also be used for things like big USB fans or flashlights--anything with a big enough continuous minimum load. It'll run a heavy USB device like a Raspberry or BeagleBone for a while too--but if you're too aggressive at saving power, it will shut off without warning.
You currently have this product (PRT-08484) which is a 6Ah triple-pack, and PRT-08483 which is a 2Ah single-pack. Any plans to carry one in the middle, a 4Ah double-pack? I have a specific project where this triple-pack is just a bit too thick to fit nicely, and a double-pack would be perfect.
Can I do 2 or 3 of these in parallel?
2C continuous discharge!? Is that to say that this battery can output 12 amps continuously?
That is a typo. The datasheet (always go to the source) says 0.2C standard discharge, and 2.0C max discharge (this is the cell only, the wires and connector are not rated for 12A).
Shouldn't you fix the "2C continuous discharge" Typo?
Thank you, done. Because of potential confusion (12A maximum, 3.6A continuous, but the connector is rated to 1A), the specs now state the real-world 1A number.
i think, for the most part, the comments above, people are not seeing the true meaning or intended usefulness of these battery packs. they are NOT designed to be used as an higher current source than the single cell 2000mah batteries, but as a longer use battery, you will get theoretically 3 times the usefulness 3.7vdc 1000mah (as determined by the connector/wiring) power to use in a project, ie. you wont have to charge as many times between uses where as if you use one of the single 3.7 2000mah lipo's. also if you're getting 3 times the use between chargings, expect 3 times the charging time to full charge.
Would it be possible to hook this up to a USB port to create a portable recharger for an iPad? There's a $80 4000mAh battery available out there, but I like the idea of 50% more capacity at just over half the price (with USB charge port and recharge port and electronics and stuff). Heck, even at $60-$70, this would represent a savings.
Ultralate response.... but you'd need to boost it to 5v and add a resistor so the iPad believes there's a computer there.
There are several videos on YouTube demonstrating use of a 9v and a regulator for this exact purpose.
can anyone recommend a boost IC that can take this from 3.7v @ 6000mA and convert it to 5v at around 1.5-2A? I need to drive 24 8x8Led Matrixes, that draw around 800ma-1A average, 1.5-1.75A peak.
I've been looking, but most of the IC's I find that can out put that current are for input voltages of 12V or more.
You might try the "Webench" power design tool at National Semiconductor. It's naturally geared towards NS parts, but you can put in desired input and output voltage and current and it will give you back a lot of example designs, and let you sort them based on efficiency, cost, real-estate, etc. Pretty neat!
awesome thanks! I'll give it a go. It's really hard finding parts on newark and digikey, as the filters list ranges usually, and then when you view the datasheets, the graphs only usuaully go to 600ma or so.
HOLY CRAP. you're right! it gives bom counts, cost, schematics...that tool is f'in awesome.
Any hopes of getting this battery back in stock?
Are these going to come back in stock?
Will this work with the Lipower Arduino Shield? DEV-10711 http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10711
Can anyone tell me what range the V of the Battery Output has? Is it something like 3,7 V +-5%? I can't find anything about it... and need it for calculations.
That's a tricky question. At full charge it will probably be around 4.2v or so, and as it discharges, it will go down. For an application where you need a stable voltage, you should always use a voltage regulator, and rely on that to keep a constant voltage. Batteries, by their nature, will vary within a relatively large range as they charge/discharge.
First of all, tanks a lot for your response!
So the borders are not percentual but as the Datasheet says:
Charge cut-off Voltage: 4.20±0.03V
Discharge cut-off Voltage: 2.75 V
The whole thing is about an DC-DC step up converter:
...but i guess that doesn't include a voltage regulator.
I'd be happy to hear from you again.
first, you might just want to use the 3v inverter we sell:
It would make life a lot easier. a 3.7v lipo shouldn't go much below something like 3.2v, so you should be fine there. but if you use the 3v inverter, you don't need anything else.
Is it possible to disassemble this battery pack to obtain 3 single batteries? I don't need the protection IC. The thing is that I'm in need of a 2000mAh lipo battery but they are out of stock.
I have disassembled one with no problems.
Simply remove the tape with care, and unsolder the 'protection board' from the cell tabs.
On mine two of the cells' tabs were spot welded and the third's tabs were soldered on to the first two. The board was tacked on to that.
I gently cut the tabs with an exacto to separate the spot welded tabs.
I reassembled mine without the 'protection board' and now it delivers what I expected. The board and its wires are not suitable to handle the full output of the pack.
The reason I quote the 'protection board' is that I'm not really sure why they used that one. The pack is clearly rated at 6000 mA but at just under 4000 mA the output shut off.
In researching the chips on the board and the way they were configured per their datasheets showed they really were set for ONE cell. The cell is rated at 2C and indeed the board shuts off its output at just around that rating. If there were one board for each cell it would have worked fine.
I suspect they have one board on the single cell items, and just use the same board for the three cell items. Regardless, it rendered the pack unusable for my application, but when removed the pack was great.
That being said, this pack has been an incredible workhorse for me! Using my own protection and chargers I've managed to get great performance. It runs for hours and hours with heavy loads and is very predictable if one follows the advice of the datasheet provided above.
Has anyone run these batteries in a series?
Each cells outputs a nominal 3.7V at 2000mAhdoes that mean that the whole pack outputs 3.7VX3 at 2000mAhX3 for a total of 11.1V at 6000mAh
No, it's 3.7v at 6000mAh.
It is because the batterys are in parallel, then the volt will be only one---> 3v, BUT the current its 3 times the current per each of them!
How would this be for a 3-hour use RC heli/quadcopter? And if I were to make an RC quadcopter, how much torque would I need for each propellor and what speed range? Would the Solarbotics TPM2 and 2.55" Propellor work without gearing? (Probably not but want to know)
What about the motors that SF carries?
What is the highest current draw someone has gotten from these batteries? Mine seem to cut out lower then that batteries are rated for. It looks like the protection circuit cuts out before it should.
Which charger do I need to charge this battery?
Check the related products below. Any of the chargers listed will work.
I don't see the "LiPo Charger Basic - Mini-USB" in the list of related products. Is it possible to use this one?
Yes. It's the same as the other, but just with a mini-USB instead of a micro-USB.
The datasheet says "Four Voltage Regulation Options:
4.20V, 4.35V, 4.40V, 4.50V, Programmable Charge Current: 15 mA to 500 mA
But how can I regulate that? By an potentiometer?
And what voltage and charge current do you recommend?
What is the current rating of the cable/wires used? I'd like to use this in my RC car that can draw up to 6A at stall.
This has a JST connector that can only have up to one amp drawn drawn because of its high resistance.
What is the part number of charger do I need to buy. Thanks
Please help me out:
My Canon DSLR comes stock with a 7.2v 1120 mAh battery. What parts would I need to wire two of these 6Ah packs together in series (to make 7.4v?) and keep my camera from getting fried? Would I then have 7.4v 6Ah or would it actually be 7.4v 12Ah?
get some replacement batteries on eBay. They won't damage your camera and they're cheap. You 'could' make this work, but it won't be easy.
I found a battery for my Nikon DSLR on Amazon for about $10. Way cheaper than making your own and way less likely to cause problems.
If you wire 2 batteries in series, you double the voltage but have the same current. (The LiPo pack is made of 3 cells in parallel, that's why SF notes this pack has the same voltage as one cell, but 3 times the current capacity).
In your case, you'll get anywhere between 7.4 and 7.8V (depending on the particular battery pack and the state of charge as it came from the factory) at 6A.
I really wouldn't recommend trying this combination! Cameras are really fussy about their batteries!
The camera uses sophisticated voltage sensing to figure out battery life, and the higher nominal voltage of this pack will screw up the measurements totally.
If you're lucky, the camera will just display a faulty battery symbol - until it shuts down in the middle of a crucial photo because the batteries have fully discharged and cut out. This will also shorten the life of the cells - or kill 'em totally :(
If you're unlucky, you'll let the smoke out of your camera!
So, you can connect two of these units together? I was under the assumption that they needed to be balanced? Will they not charge/discharge differently?
It would make sense that 2 of these in series would have the same 'Ah' as one by itself. You might need need to charge this externally from the camera though (I'm not sure what your camera is capable of providing for charge).
I'm also curious about this. Can anyone comment?
I'd like to know the fastest product I can use to recharge this battery...
Would the iphone 5V-1A "cube" wall adapter work with the PRT-10161 and still charge at 500mAh. Of course, that still implies over 12hrs to charge!
Can this battery hand 12 amperes?? Are they well designed?
Check the PDF above. It doesn't look like it can handle 12A.
Are you sure about that? 6AH*2C=12A, right? Maybe I'm fundamentally wrong about something though...
I think the same!
Each battery can deliver 2C=4A. There are three of them in parallel so 3x4A=12A.
Charging can be done up to 1C, with three of them 3x1C = 6A. So you can't charge them at maximum rate either.
Why that tiny connector? Can cable handle 12 A?
Is it easy to change it?
Thank you very much.
Diego got it. That JST connector I think can only handle 1 amp or so (correct me if I am wrong).
This battery pack contains a charge/discharge protection circuit inside. The red/black wires are attached to it just under the insulation tape. The protection board utilizes a Fortune DW01 protection IC and an Fortune FS8205A Dual MOSFET.
I haven't figured out what the maximum charge and discharge currents are. Maybe the correct spec will help with that once it's posted.
Also, the dimensions listed above are incorrect. The actual measured dimensions are:
60mm x 54mm x 17mm (2.36 x 2.13 x 0.67 inch).
Thank you for the comment! Having a hard time finding an inline 1s lipo low voltage cutoff and I lack the expertise to make one.
Does this battery support under voltage protection like the 1000mah?!?! If not, how about a 1s low voltage cut off board for us?
This page shows the weight at 110g and the datasheet shows it as 37g. Why the discrepancy?
The datasheet is for 1 cell, so multiply by 3.
The datahseet is incorrect. Our weight is correct. I'll get a new datasheet posted.
37g per cell. 37g * 3 cells = 111g, so pretty close.
Can we get a datasheet for the 3 of them together, or at least some performance specs like maximum current output?
I am considering using one of these in my portable NES (NESBoy) and I am wondering; what charger would charge this the fastest, and how long will it take to charge?
So the proper designation for this battery would be 1S3P (one Series of three Parallel) 6000mA 2C then? Because I don't believe for an instant that this pack could deliver 12 amps through that tiny little lead/connector!
I am charging this with the LiPoly Charger - Single Cell 3.7-7V Input charger also sold here and using it to charge a iphone 3g via a MintyBoost Kit - v2.0. After fully charging the battery via a 5V 1A wall wart (~29 hours, due to the chargers 280mA limit) I only get approximately 2 full recharges before the battery is completely drained. Is it possible that the individual cells aren't properly connected?
no it's not hooked up wrong
you have to remember the inefficiencies of a boost converter (approx 40% to 70%)
And the iphone internel battery is 1280 mAh battery you are getting about 42%
Please can this be charged with only one LiPoly Charger - Single Cell 3.7-7V:
A quick answer would be appreciated.
Non-official response: My guess would be technically yes, although it would take quite a very long while (given that max output on that charger is 280 mA, and that it won't maintain that max throughout the 6Ah charge...
use the LiPoly Fast Charger
it has a max output of 1A and under basic math it will take about 6 hours to charge a completely died battery
If I wanted a 1 hr charge time on one batt, I'd need like 6 of these? So 24 for 4 of these, right?
you do NOT want to hook up more than ONE charge controller to a single battery at a time
what you are say is to hook up six controller to one battery, all that will do is cause is one nasty fire, it is like trying to drink six gallons of water at the same time all, all will you do is vomit or drown
That charger description says "charges single cell lithium polymer batteries" but isn't this a 3 cell? I'm also interested in using that charger with this battery.
While, yes, the charger is for single cell, that will not be a problem in this case. This battery has all three of its cells hooked up in parallel, so the charger will see it as a single cell.
When batteries are hooked up in series is when you start looking for a charger that can handle two or more cells.