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Description: For over 50 years, Hakko has been producing superior quality soldering and desoldering tools. They're dependable, a good value and they work really well!  We use Hakko irons in production and we think they're great.

The Hakko FX-888D is an updated digital version of the popular FX-888 and includes several new features. Selectable preset temperatures and digital calibration make it easier to setup and operate, and the new password protection and low temperature alarm provide process control and helps protect against cold solder joints!

Note: This iron will come with the T18-D16 chisel tip. Check below for replacements and other options.

Features:

  • Adjustable temperature control
  • Temperature range 120° - 899°F (50° - 480°C)
  • Digital display shows °F or °C
  • Maintains idle temperature within 1.8°F (1°C) @ 400 - 899°F
  • Ceramic heating element
  • Sensor ensures fast heat-up temp and fast thermal recovery
  • Password protected temperature setting functionality
  • Preset mode allows you to store up to five (5) preset temps
  • Slender, lightweight ergonomic iron handles
  • Compact design takes up less bench space
  • Wide selection of tips available
  • Great for soldering SMD and through-hole applications
  • Use with Hakko T18 series tips

Documents:

Replaces: TOL-10553

Comments 46 comments

  • Any chance you could sell the silver version shown here: http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx888d.html ?

  • [facepalm]

    Now I’m stuck with a station I can’t use because it isn’t 220V… Even though it isn’t specified in the product details, I could’ve known this to be the case.

    • I assume you aren’t in the US, get a 220V to 120V converter and you’ll be all set.

      • I’m from Europe, so no 110V here and I’d rather not use a clunky converter because I’m very limited in space.

        But… I got a 220V > 24V transformer in the mail today, so I’m going to replace the 110V transformer with that one. I found a video on YouTube where someone did this and it worked out perfectly for him. Had a quick talk with him and he pointed me to the transformer he used. It cost me about 18 euro and he said it will take about 20 minutes to do.

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QK3pTam0Gkk

        – Wouter

        • Okay, so I just got around to installing the new transformer and it works like a charm. I knew this was fast, but damn… it heats up to the max in about 30 seconds!

          Still need to clean things up a bit and add some heatshrink to the connections, but didn’t have anything laying around.

          Just a few pics:

          Note: I don’t recommend doing it this way if you value your warranty, because obviously you’ll void it. Don’t know if this will keep working, but the guy I got the tips from says his station still works like when it was new.

          – Wouter

  • We need a 220V version !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (or a workaround :-) )

  • It’s so sad that you don’t have european version :(

  • It really really really sucks that you can’t sell the 220V version :‘( Anyway, I think you should specify (and warn in red or something) that this is not valid in Europe, because I almost buy it until I read in the comments that is 120V!

  • Hi! Are you restocking them anytime soon? I really want this iron.

  • Wow, you guys are just out of stock for pretty much everything huh? Both soldering stations you carry are BO, most of the good solder, ribbon cables, your meter is discontinued, SparkFun is kinda hurting right now…

  • The power supply where i live 220/240v 50Hz. If i get a adapter so that it works with 220v will i have a problem with the frequency being 50Hz? Thanks for any help

  • After 30 years on Radio Shack pencil irons, I decided it was time to step up. This station is a pleasure to use.

  • Just received my Hakko and I love it! What a fantastic product! Thanks SparkFun!

  • Great soldering iron. Gets hot fast and stays hot. Highly recommended.

  • When will these be restocked? I was ready to get one, then, BAM, All sold out. Thanks! :)

  • I LOVE this iron. One thing I wish SF would carry (and that I can’t live without) is the Hakko T18-BR02 tip. It is a standard conical tip that is bent around 30°. It is SO much easier to solder through-hole components, and I would imagine that it would help even more with surface mount stuff. It allows you to hold the working edge parallel against the board while actually holding the wand at a 30° angle. Perfection!

  • This is a great soldering station. The digital input is easy to use and the temperature setting stays where you left it when you turn it back on. The all-metal stand is of quality and easy on the eyes. I’d buy this again, but I don’t think mine will quit any time soon.

    The product photo has placed the wire sponge in the back where the hot end of your iron would go. This is incorrect. Though the placement is entirely up to the user, the wire sponge is supposed to sit in the crevice between the iron holder and the wet sponge, per the Hakko directions.

  • Is this a 240v input ?

  • “Password protected temperature setting functionality”

    What the heck would you need that for?

    • When these are used on factory floors, you may not want workers changing the settings if they don’t know what they’re doing. This isn’t a problem at SFE.

  • If you are after the non digital version look at the recent comments on the previous model TOL-10553, good value too.

  • Digital readout is nice but for $100 needs an Auto-Off timer feature… 30 minutes no use and OFF.

  • This is a great price, Hakko are tough and reliable. Just saw it for $199 on AliExpress.com

  • Do you also have a european/230V model?

    • unfortunately, no. Hakko specifically won’t let us sell them as we’re based in the US. We’ve tried, hard.

      • What about looking at it from another angle? Maybe start stocking 230v -> 110v 75W transformers, and then make a bundle thingie?

        • we’ve though about it, but shipping adds considerable cost at that point, and we haven’t been able to find a good enough price on the transformers yet.

      • Hakko is difficult, and this difficulty makes the market for clones exists, quite a shame really. I sucked it in, and paid $270 for my 888d, and can’t say I regret it now, it’s an supergood iron, but it was kinda hard to swallow the pill when ordering.

  • Why two different kinds of sponges? And doesn’t having the brass sponge in the back make it difficult to clean the iron properly?

    • Wow, come on sparkfun. The Brass wire sponge does not go in the back! Fail, you even made the new product video with it in the back.

      It’s true that when your done soldering you should tin your tip, this ensures no oxidation is formed, however, you would never want to rest your tip in the sponge.

      The sponge goes in the little opening below the iron, so put it there!

    • The regular sponge (in the front) is a more gentle cleaning option compared to the wire one, and doesn’t clog up with excess tin as much over time.
      I have no idea why the photographer decided to put the wire one in the back, though. It’s supposed to go in the little curved slot at the front - yet it looks rather comfy where it is, too, so all that open space must be useful for something :)

      • it comes packaged as pictured, so it got shot that way. it does actually work well in the back though. it sits far down enough that you can press your tip into the sponge right before you set it on the cradle. either way works.

        • And everyone knows that proper men does not read docs.. Oh, I kinda sucked at that, so I read it, and put it in the proper place. (better not keep that brass hot always stealing heat from the iron)

        • Mine came with the sponge packaged in it’s own plastic bag with specific instructions to put it in the opening above the normal sponge and not in the back. Personally I don’t think you would want it sitting in the sponge as it would constantly be removing heat from the iron both needlessly heating up the sponge and needlessly working the heating element of the iron (but I could be wrong about this). One thing is for sure though, with mine sitting in front of me on a desk I would have to stand up to effectively see what I’m doing when cleaning the tip with the sponge in the back.

        • I was looking at the manual trying to figure out how you can do all those settings with just two buttons, but it pretty much says but the wire one in that front hole.

          I’m also wondering why it has a password to protect the settings. If I ever get one, do undesirable people commonly break into people’s homes and businesses and change someone’s soldering temp settings. Whats this world coming to. :-)

          But seriously this doesn’t look like its meant to be a shared tool like in a production environment.

          • I have a discontinued Hakko 929. It requires a card that is punched with a pattern of holes to be inserted before the temperature can be changed. The 929’s card and the FX888D’s password prevent ‘employees’ from changing the temperature and ruining the circuits by lifting the pad with too much heat.

            • Yea I guess I never thought how things work in production environments. But again I just assumed this model iron is more of a prosumer tool and not really used in a shop. But now I know.

              Its kind of like when I started working for a cab company and the quantity of stuff they have to keep in stock to keep 300 cabs on the road. Windshield wiper fluid comes in a small tanker truck and is pumped into 250 gallon holding tanks. Car engines are considered a stock items, not a “special order”. :-)

              • In a small shop, it’s nice to have the low end price-point at $99 vs. several hundred. I kinda wish my reliable 929 would stop working so I can justify buying this one.

                • I think that’s what I have too at home. It won’t stop working though, sorry. Mine was 5+ years old and was used in contract manufacturing. I bought it used and I’ve had it for 10 years now. I still use the original tip even… It still works like new. It won’t die. I only like buying things once.

        • Thats kind of what I thought. Everytime you put it away in the stand it gets cleaned.

          Something I’m terrible at doing. :-)

          • I don’t know if it is true, but I was taught to clean the tip just before use, and never after use, so that the tin would stay on the tip and prevent it from corroding.

            Edit: Just need to add that after a session of soldering I clean and re-tin the tip, of course.

            • Thats where I’m messing up.

              I need a tutorial on solder tip hygiene. :-)

              Also I really need a temp controlled iron. I thought a 40w single temp iron would work but its too hot. So I hacked together a temp control using a lamp dimmer and its helping. I marked out some numbers around the dial and 7* seems to work best with the generic lead free solder I’m using. I just got the small roll of leaded solder from here and will see how that goes. I also have a thermocouple that plugs into my multimeter so I could sort of calibrate the iron.

              • Oh and my scale goes to “11” you know when you need just a little bit more heat to get the job done.

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